Pre purchase advice
#1
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Pre purchase advice
I am considering purchasing a 2011 GX 460 premium with 35K ish miles. It has been stored under a carport in TX the last 5 years.
Besides being dirty, it is in good condition. Routine maintenance prior to 5 years ago was at a Lexus dealer. Beside a engine oil/filter change, any additional suggestions on what should be accomplished or looked at prior to purchase?
respectfully
Besides being dirty, it is in good condition. Routine maintenance prior to 5 years ago was at a Lexus dealer. Beside a engine oil/filter change, any additional suggestions on what should be accomplished or looked at prior to purchase?
respectfully
#2
5 years without driving...
battery needs replacement, tires might be flat and deformed and need replacement.
not sure what would happen to the old fuel in the fuel tank.
battery needs replacement, tires might be flat and deformed and need replacement.
not sure what would happen to the old fuel in the fuel tank.
#3
Pole Position
^ ... fuel with any Ethanol content should be siphoned out before starting ... and new tires... look at the DOT Stamp on the sidewall for the Week/Year of manufacture ... if more than 8-years old ... replace the tires ... but they are probably flatspotted anyway from storage.
If you purchase ... immediately change ALL fluids ... most important ... a brake system flush.
If you purchase ... immediately change ALL fluids ... most important ... a brake system flush.
Last edited by ASE; 02-20-24 at 07:01 AM.
#4
Intermediate
any additional suggestions on what should be accomplished or looked at prior to purchase?
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DanTeSlagX (02-25-24)
#5
Pole Position
If you are asking how to do a pre-purchase inspection, that’s one thing. But it sounds like you are asking how to revive the car. That’s honestly going to be done post-purchase in most cases. Are you planning on driving it from TX to VA?
Besides the things mentioned, here are some thoughts. I’ve done this once or twice (revive a car sitting a long time).
- On gas, I normally add some octane booster and then drive it out. Not harmful and easier and much safer than draining a tank. If you have the desire/time/etc. though, drain the tank. Then run a couple tanks w/PEA additive in it to clean the complete system (Techron or Gumout Regane). Chevron gas is also helpful of course as it has PEA in it. Not sure of any other gas brand that guarantees that.
- If the tires are otherwise good, drive them hard and the carcasses may heat up and regain their shape. It did happen to me once. If the tires are still from 2011 though, look very hard at their condition as they likely are cracked, etc.
- I would just drain/fill the ATF and not swap it all. ATF does not age-out as badly as engine oil. Do that every 30 to 40k going forward and you will be grand. Swap the PS reservoir fluid volume, too. Some Lubegard red in both systems would be great to clean up any varnish that may have been accumulated over that sitting time. It will also re-condition seals in both systems that may have dried from dis-use. (I would put some blue/biotech in the engine for that reason, too).
- Coolant does not age chronologically much, BUT it’s still likely the original fill from 2011 and needs service.
- Put some silicone grease on the door, hatch, sun roof seals and gaskets. SuperLube is good for this and not as pricey as the one-off Japanese and Euro greases like Shin-etsu. The drying out can lead to sticking and then tearing.
- Clean the interior of the windshield aggressively. Dash plastics off-gas and after that time it will have a film.
- Clean and get a UV protectant on the dash before the summer (I like 303; there are others), as well as treating the interior leather, wood, etc.
Besides the things mentioned, here are some thoughts. I’ve done this once or twice (revive a car sitting a long time).
- On gas, I normally add some octane booster and then drive it out. Not harmful and easier and much safer than draining a tank. If you have the desire/time/etc. though, drain the tank. Then run a couple tanks w/PEA additive in it to clean the complete system (Techron or Gumout Regane). Chevron gas is also helpful of course as it has PEA in it. Not sure of any other gas brand that guarantees that.
- If the tires are otherwise good, drive them hard and the carcasses may heat up and regain their shape. It did happen to me once. If the tires are still from 2011 though, look very hard at their condition as they likely are cracked, etc.
- I would just drain/fill the ATF and not swap it all. ATF does not age-out as badly as engine oil. Do that every 30 to 40k going forward and you will be grand. Swap the PS reservoir fluid volume, too. Some Lubegard red in both systems would be great to clean up any varnish that may have been accumulated over that sitting time. It will also re-condition seals in both systems that may have dried from dis-use. (I would put some blue/biotech in the engine for that reason, too).
- Coolant does not age chronologically much, BUT it’s still likely the original fill from 2011 and needs service.
- Put some silicone grease on the door, hatch, sun roof seals and gaskets. SuperLube is good for this and not as pricey as the one-off Japanese and Euro greases like Shin-etsu. The drying out can lead to sticking and then tearing.
- Clean the interior of the windshield aggressively. Dash plastics off-gas and after that time it will have a film.
- Clean and get a UV protectant on the dash before the summer (I like 303; there are others), as well as treating the interior leather, wood, etc.
#7
I would suggest looking somewhere else that is ready to go.
I am considering purchasing a 2011 GX 460 premium with 35K ish miles. It has been stored under a carport in TX the last 5 years.
Besides being dirty, it is in good condition. Routine maintenance prior to 5 years ago was at a Lexus dealer. Beside a engine oil/filter change, any additional suggestions on what should be accomplished or looked at prior to purchase?
respectfully
Besides being dirty, it is in good condition. Routine maintenance prior to 5 years ago was at a Lexus dealer. Beside a engine oil/filter change, any additional suggestions on what should be accomplished or looked at prior to purchase?
respectfully
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DanTeSlagX (02-25-24)
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#9
Pole Position
Stop a day in Vicksburg if a route works out. Pretty neat and a Virginian might appreciate it. I’ve only visited briefly once, but my 3rd great-grandfather spent a solid five months just *outside* of town a good while back. Pretty memorable for him, too.
Last edited by Oro; 02-22-24 at 12:52 PM.
#10
Immediately change the serpentine belt and all hoses before driving it. Remember, rubber and plastic age and very quickly if sitting outside in Texas. Why the hell was it parked for so long? Something does not add up, this thing has some sort of hidden problem I can almost guarantee. My guess is it was flooded or there is some issue with the engine/transmission. Would this vehicle be located somewhere near the Texas coast?
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ASE (02-23-24)
#11
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Immediately change the serpentine belt and all hoses before driving it. Remember, rubber and plastic age and very quickly if sitting outside in Texas. Why the hell was it parked for so long? Something does not add up, this thing has some sort of hidden problem I can almost guarantee. My guess is it was flooded or there is some issue with the engine/transmission. Would this vehicle be located somewhere near the Texas coast?
#12
Pole Position
^ agree ... replace the battery, tires and all functional rubber in the engine compartment ... and replace all fluids. A sedentary vehicle ... while low(er) mileage ... has aged more in many respects than a regularly used low mileage equivalent. And don't forget Zerk lube ...
Last edited by ASE; 02-23-24 at 07:27 AM.
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MrTorgue (02-23-24)
#13
^ agree ... replace the battery, tires and all functional rubber in the engine compartment ... and replace all fluids. A sedentary vehicle ... while low(er) mileage ... has aged more in many respects than a regularly used low mileage equivalent. And don't forget Zerk lube ...
#14
In addition to the mechanical stuff already mentioned by others, I’d start restoring all of the dried out weatherstripping and weather seals (black rubber) with several light applications of a lithium grease. I’d also wash the car completely 3-4 times then begin clay-barring the body by hand to remove any contaminants from the paint. Then I’d put some really obnoxious hard to work wax on it like Collinite. (You can wash/wax as normal after that) but you really need to get all the crap out of the paint and also get the weatherstripping back into shape.
Also have fun with the mice and wasp nests.
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MrTorgue (02-25-24)
#15
There is no way I would drive it more than a handful of miles on the tires. They are probably dry rotted, have flat spots, and will have surprise leaks. The chances of those tires being safe for that drive are close to zero.
In addition to the mechanical stuff already mentioned by others, I’d start restoring all of the dried out weatherstripping and weather seals (black rubber) with several light applications of a lithium grease. I’d also wash the car completely 3-4 times then begin clay-barring the body by hand to remove any contaminants from the paint. Then I’d put some really obnoxious hard to work wax on it like Collinite. (You can wash/wax as normal after that) but you really need to get all the crap out of the paint and also get the weatherstripping back into shape.
Also have fun with the mice and wasp nests.
In addition to the mechanical stuff already mentioned by others, I’d start restoring all of the dried out weatherstripping and weather seals (black rubber) with several light applications of a lithium grease. I’d also wash the car completely 3-4 times then begin clay-barring the body by hand to remove any contaminants from the paint. Then I’d put some really obnoxious hard to work wax on it like Collinite. (You can wash/wax as normal after that) but you really need to get all the crap out of the paint and also get the weatherstripping back into shape.
Also have fun with the mice and wasp nests.
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