dwh13

I replaced my lower intermediate steering shaft today. I couldn't find any GX-specific instructions, so I made do with various 4Runner/Tacoma guides (seems to be a pretty common problem with BOF Toyotas; my 100-series did the same thing). The process is similar but not identical, so I figured I'd put a little GX-specific guide together.

Symptoms: I got a very noticeable "clatter" sound from the steering column when driving straight over gravel roads. The sound went away when turning. Another symptom associated with a bad lower shaft is the steering wheel randomly "catching" or binding while turning due to rusty u-joints. My indy mechanic diagnosed and quoted me $753 to replace, of which $337 was labor. I ordered an OEM part from PartSouq for $128.

Part number: 45203-60181

Here are the 4Runner/Taco videos I referenced: /
Steps:

1. Jack up the front DS wheel and remove
2. Remove splash guard
3. Turn the steering wheel so you can access the upper bolt (shown here, 12 mm) and remove. Use a chisel or flathead screwdriver to pry open the split held together by the bolt. Use a paint pen to mark both the upper and lower shafts (I got an OEM shaft so it already had markings).
   • An important distinction between the 4Runner/Taco and GX is the lower shaft connects directly to the upper shaft - there's no removable collar like the videos I linked show.

4. You'll have to turn the wheel again to get access to the lower bolt (shown below, also 12 mm) - this takes a creative assembly of socket extensions and a swivel. Use a paint pen to mark the original alignment.



5. Before disconnecting either end of the shaft, be sure to tie off your steering wheel so it doesn't move. I used bungee cords and strapped it to the seat rail. If it spins freely, it can break your clock spring.

6. Use an air chisel or cold chisel to push the lower part of the shaft off of the steering rack connection. Once that's loose, I was able to simply pull and disconnect the other side from the upper steering shaft.

7. Seat the new shaft on the steering rack side first, this will make it easier to seat the other side to the upper steering shaft. Turn the steering wheel to check that both marks line up with the new shaft.

• Pro tip: Even if it looks close enough, it's not. It needs to be exact. I'll be re-doing mine tomorrow because of this 🙃

8. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Torque spec for the bottom bolt is listed in the FSM as 27 ft/lb. I couldn't find the spec for the upper bolt, but assume it's the same.

Old vs new - visually, the old shaft was in great shape for a hard, 10 year/125k mile life in an engine bay. But the u-joint was completely loose as you can see in the video. The new part doesn't move much when you give it a good shake.



Overall, this might be one of the few DIYs I've ever done that was easier than I expected. I spent ~90 minutes total on this, including double-checking those videos and searching the FSM for torque specs. I'd give it a two out of five on the 🍌 scale.

mike202

Did the new shaft fix the "clatter"? I ask because I have the same issue on a 2014. In this thread, post #40, the OP replaced both the upper and lower shafts and the problem remains.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...-noises-3.html

Also mentioned there, in my GX there appears to be looseness is the steering column itself.

dwh13

Haven't had a chance to take it on any rough roads for a full shakedown yet, but when I shake the steering wheel back and forth, I don't hear it anymore.