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Had brakes upgraded, trans oil changed, valve cover gaskets changed for small leak on passenger side, (long story will tell after question just FYI), plugs, plug seals. After all of that the VSC dash light stays on. I had to do a zero point calibration and that gave me the dashboard steering location but I can't get rid of the VSC dash indicator.
Any help before I go crazy with it?
The story on the valves cover leak. It ended up being the cam saddle like the other thread about valve cover leaks, so leak not fixed but glad we got into it. Somebody, previous owner, looks like they chased a leak. The old valve cover gasket was full of RTV and the plug seals were smashed so plug well were pretty well lubricated. Oh well I still have the leak but it is small and for the expense I will leave it. But the VSC is MY real problem.
Originally had a check engine light. Put my old code reader on and got a P0446. After a lot of checking I found a wire had pulled out from a connector during valve cover gasket replacement. Fixed the wire now no check engine but get a code P0441, checked every hose and fitting, no issues and no check engine light, yet VSC is still on. Will take it to an auto parts store tomorrow to use their code reader. The picture is the problem for the P0446
I was able to get my VSC light to disappear after replacing my abs sensor line (I broke it while changing shocks). It took a little bit to get it rerouted, but it was immediate. I would assume that someone stressed the connection point between the sensor and the sensor wire. Check there.
Mystery solved. Nothing broken or even wrong. It appears that there is a bulletin that on some G5 4runners and Lexus GX460s when doing brakes, the VSC has to be reset similar to the Zero point but a different process. Resetting VSC also resets zero point so it’s a two-fer. I did the zero point and got my steering angle display back on the dash but didn’t do whatever was required for the VSC.
VSC reset is same as zero reset but requires, turning off the ignition after the zero reset then restarting and driving for about 30 seconds over 20mph in a straight line. My problem was I did the zero reset in my garage, so there was no way to drive straight directly after the restart.
Oh well, everything is working perfectly, including crawl control and Diff Lock. Thanks for the help here and the ideas.
Are you checking for codes with Techstream or OBD Link/Fusion? Or hardware equivalent that can read all the ECUs? I haven’t looked into the latter since what I have now reads everything but they seem to be $150+
ah yeah. i was using the emergency obd el cheapo i keep just in case i need to reset.
before i reset i will connect with some better HW and SW.
i will check for codes using TS with a VXDIAG vcx nano before any reset.
I had no codes relating to VSC, I only had one unrelated code for Evap system with the pulled wire. We used my buddy's full TechStream system to check for codes and Nada.
The key to the VSC reset, over and above the zero point reset is the driving. You need to do the reset in an area where you are prepared to drive straight at 25 MPH as part of the procedure. I did the zero point in my garage, It worked perfectly but even if I had known about the driving I would have had to make the turn from the garage to the drive then from the drive to the street before I could go for 10 seconds at 25MPH.
a. Drive the vehicle straight ahead at 40 km/h (25 mph) or more for at least 10 seconds.
b. Confirm the steering angle display function.
i. Turn the steering wheel to the left and right and confirm that the steering angle display function is normal
ok had the slip light always on for quite a while, finally took some time to dig in and resolve the issue.
that is called the slip light
had no codes with the generic obd. hooked up the good decoder and techstream. ran the ~33 count test on ECUs. found a code. C120A ECU initial setting incomplete.
but i know i had a good setting as i set it myself and knew that there had been no ecu issues. thinking about all the different initial settings on ecus i remembered that the last one i had set was related to slip. looked down and saw the dac switch set to on.
this switch (shown off here)
so when those get added a zpc is done which changes which setting is used, basically the dac becomes invalidated in the ecu. i never disconnected my dac wire so the ecu senses an error when trying dac but the zpc is set for cc. someone must have bumped the dac switch, probably me and didnt notice. next time im in the shifter area i will cut the dac wire that tells the ecu to use the dac zpc set.
if you have both dac and cc then make sure to check the dac switch before a zpc, else you can set the ecu back to prior to the cc add and invalidate it in the ecu.
09-01-24, 01:55 PM
VSC stays on
