Crossbars
#61
This company does not have any customer service. There is no phone number listed. I sent an email or open a ticket in the website and put urgent, no one responded. its more than two weeks.
How reliable is this company? it does not say even if its in stock or not. no confidence in buying from them.
Any one ordered and received these from their website?
How reliable is this company? it does not say even if its in stock or not. no confidence in buying from them.
Any one ordered and received these from their website?
#62
Driver School Candidate
Review - OEM cross bars vs knock-offs
Hi, first post as a new owner of a 2010 GX 460. This forum has been super informative so far and thought I'd give back by contributing a little as I couldn't find this info in other threads. Below is a comparison between Lexus OEM cross bars ($180) and OEM knock-offs ($80).
TL;DR: Go with OEM for better installation, build quality, and looks.
Pictures (OEM on right)
I needed to mount a pair of ski racks but my GX did not come with factory cross bars. I debated between Lexus OEM (PT27860170) vs knock-offs and bought the despite the mixed reviews. There were many different knock-off listing across amazon and ebay but from what I can gather they all seemed to be the same product. Most of the negative reviews were people who didn't know the bars came in different lengths and the longer one has to go in front, so I decided to give it a chance. I was not happy with the installation and ordered OEM crossbars which arrived a few days later.
Dimensions
I did not expect this but after putting the two sets side by side, both the knock-off bars were about an inch shorter than the OEM counter parts. I was still able to position the knock-off bars where I wanted them so this wasn't an issue, but thought it was pretty interesting.
Installation
Knock-offs: I read a lot of about the difficult installation ahead of time but it still ended up being a huge PITA. The hex screws were not long enough to allow the metal hooks to slide under the factory rails while attached to the end of the bars. This meant I had to take the screws completely off the hooks, manually position them under the rails, and then line up the holes from the top of the bar end while using my finger to press the hook against the bottom of the bar. The rubber paddings weren't securely attached to the bar so they kept falling off and getting dislodged. The screws were also poor quality as I could feel a few of them beginning to strip when tightening with the provided hex wrench. Took about 20 minutes of fiddling to secure all 4 mounting points, which honestly wasn't that bad but still frustrating because it could've taken less than 5 minutes if the manufacturer didn't cheap out and used slightly longer screws.
OEM: Much easier to install and took way less time. Much higher quality screws, torx instead of hex. The screws were long enough so that the metal hooks could slide under the rails without separating the metal hook from the bar. The rubber paddings were securely attached to the bar and never fell off. The torque wrench it came with was easy and convenient to use. Easier to slide the bars up and down the railings to position them before tightening down.
I wasn't planning to take the cross bars off and on all the time so installation wasn't a deal breaker. The real deal breakers were build quality and looks.
Build quality
Knock-offs: The silver bar end mounts were plastic but bar itself was metal. The rubber paddings were all the same shape which left some gaps along the contoured surface of the factory rails when installed. After mounting my ski rack onto the bars, I gave them a good shake and noticed there was a lot of wiggle. The bar ends were securely attached to the rails and the ski rack was securely attached to the bars, but there was a lot of play where the metal bar fitted into the plastic ends. Tightening the two hex screws on the underside of the bar helped a little but it was still a lot more wiggle compared to the OEM crossbars on our previous vehicle.
OEM: The silver part was still made out of plastic, which was a bit disappointing as I thought it might be metal based on internet pictures. Bar was metal, nothing special. However it was very easy to tell that overall this was much better quality. The rubber paddings had different angles on each end so that each mounting point sat nicely along with rail surface. Most important part was that with OEM there was very little wiggle after installing the ski rack and much more confidence inspiring.
Looks
Knock-offs: I didn't think looks would be an issue since the knock-offs looked almost exactly like OEM based on pictures. Oh boy was I wrong. The rubber padding on the knock-offs were much thicker than OEM and did not sit flush along the rails (forgot to take a picture of this as I was so eager to take them off). Looking at the vehicle side profile it was pretty easy to notice the thick rubber padding at each mounting point. The silver plastic also had a different and uglier texture compared to the rails.
OEM: The rubber paddings were much slimmer and not really noticeable after installation. The color of the silver plastic also matched the rail a lot better. Mine came with a small paint chip on one of the plastic parts - a little disappointing considering how much it costs but not visible unless looking from above.
I will be keeping the OEM cross bars and returning the knock-offs to amazon. Can't say that OEM is really worth double the price, but unfortunately there aren't other options out there. Comparable equipment from Inno and Yakima are $400+ just for the cross bars and mounts. Full roof racks are $1000+ and I personally don't have a need for them (yet?). Personally I don't want to have to worry about the wiggle issue and can't stand the ugly looks of the knock-offs, so I will be sticking with OEM.
I included a lot more details than I initially intended to, but hopefully this helps anyone who is trying to make the same decision.
TL;DR: Go with OEM for better installation, build quality, and looks.
Pictures (OEM on right)
I needed to mount a pair of ski racks but my GX did not come with factory cross bars. I debated between Lexus OEM (PT27860170) vs knock-offs and bought the despite the mixed reviews. There were many different knock-off listing across amazon and ebay but from what I can gather they all seemed to be the same product. Most of the negative reviews were people who didn't know the bars came in different lengths and the longer one has to go in front, so I decided to give it a chance. I was not happy with the installation and ordered OEM crossbars which arrived a few days later.
Dimensions
I did not expect this but after putting the two sets side by side, both the knock-off bars were about an inch shorter than the OEM counter parts. I was still able to position the knock-off bars where I wanted them so this wasn't an issue, but thought it was pretty interesting.
Installation
Knock-offs: I read a lot of about the difficult installation ahead of time but it still ended up being a huge PITA. The hex screws were not long enough to allow the metal hooks to slide under the factory rails while attached to the end of the bars. This meant I had to take the screws completely off the hooks, manually position them under the rails, and then line up the holes from the top of the bar end while using my finger to press the hook against the bottom of the bar. The rubber paddings weren't securely attached to the bar so they kept falling off and getting dislodged. The screws were also poor quality as I could feel a few of them beginning to strip when tightening with the provided hex wrench. Took about 20 minutes of fiddling to secure all 4 mounting points, which honestly wasn't that bad but still frustrating because it could've taken less than 5 minutes if the manufacturer didn't cheap out and used slightly longer screws.
OEM: Much easier to install and took way less time. Much higher quality screws, torx instead of hex. The screws were long enough so that the metal hooks could slide under the rails without separating the metal hook from the bar. The rubber paddings were securely attached to the bar and never fell off. The torque wrench it came with was easy and convenient to use. Easier to slide the bars up and down the railings to position them before tightening down.
I wasn't planning to take the cross bars off and on all the time so installation wasn't a deal breaker. The real deal breakers were build quality and looks.
Build quality
Knock-offs: The silver bar end mounts were plastic but bar itself was metal. The rubber paddings were all the same shape which left some gaps along the contoured surface of the factory rails when installed. After mounting my ski rack onto the bars, I gave them a good shake and noticed there was a lot of wiggle. The bar ends were securely attached to the rails and the ski rack was securely attached to the bars, but there was a lot of play where the metal bar fitted into the plastic ends. Tightening the two hex screws on the underside of the bar helped a little but it was still a lot more wiggle compared to the OEM crossbars on our previous vehicle.
OEM: The silver part was still made out of plastic, which was a bit disappointing as I thought it might be metal based on internet pictures. Bar was metal, nothing special. However it was very easy to tell that overall this was much better quality. The rubber paddings had different angles on each end so that each mounting point sat nicely along with rail surface. Most important part was that with OEM there was very little wiggle after installing the ski rack and much more confidence inspiring.
Looks
Knock-offs: I didn't think looks would be an issue since the knock-offs looked almost exactly like OEM based on pictures. Oh boy was I wrong. The rubber padding on the knock-offs were much thicker than OEM and did not sit flush along the rails (forgot to take a picture of this as I was so eager to take them off). Looking at the vehicle side profile it was pretty easy to notice the thick rubber padding at each mounting point. The silver plastic also had a different and uglier texture compared to the rails.
OEM: The rubber paddings were much slimmer and not really noticeable after installation. The color of the silver plastic also matched the rail a lot better. Mine came with a small paint chip on one of the plastic parts - a little disappointing considering how much it costs but not visible unless looking from above.
I will be keeping the OEM cross bars and returning the knock-offs to amazon. Can't say that OEM is really worth double the price, but unfortunately there aren't other options out there. Comparable equipment from Inno and Yakima are $400+ just for the cross bars and mounts. Full roof racks are $1000+ and I personally don't have a need for them (yet?). Personally I don't want to have to worry about the wiggle issue and can't stand the ugly looks of the knock-offs, so I will be sticking with OEM.
I included a lot more details than I initially intended to, but hopefully this helps anyone who is trying to make the same decision.
#63
Appreciate the thorough review. Few thoughts from my experience. I think there are a wide array of knock offs out there and not all are the same. I went with a knock off version and mine came with torx nuts and I didn’t have probs installing mine with no wiggle or gaps. It’s on pretty solid. The only negative is what you mentioned, they are slightly shorter so the bar upfront is only held onto the clamps by 1 set instead of 2 screws. I’m not too concerned though as these are for lightweight accessories, I don’t plan on mounting a roof top tent! YMMV
#64
Driver School Candidate
Yakima Load Warrior with OEM cross bars
I have a Yakima Load Warrior basket and have ordered the OEM cross bars. A couple of questions if you don’t mind:
1. Can you pop open the back end of the sun roof without striking the roof rack?
2. Are the basket’s rubber straps rubbing on the roof of the vehicle?
Thanks.
1. Can you pop open the back end of the sun roof without striking the roof rack?
2. Are the basket’s rubber straps rubbing on the roof of the vehicle?
Thanks.
Last edited by Rick111; 03-20-21 at 05:25 PM.
#65
Super Moderator
On stock bars I have no rubbing with that basket.
I have a Yakima Load Warrior basket and have ordered the OEM cross bars. A couple of questions if you don’t mind:
1. Can you pop open the back end of the sun roof without striking the roof rack?
2. Are the basket’s rubber straps rubbing on the roof of the vehicle?
Thanks.
1. Can you pop open the back end of the sun roof without striking the roof rack?
2. Are the basket’s rubber straps rubbing on the roof of the vehicle?
Thanks.
The following users liked this post:
Rick111 (03-20-21)
#66
Driver School Candidate
Yakima Load Warrior
The 2021 Owner’s Manual states a limit of 176 pounds on the roof (page 179). That includes the weight of the cross bars and basket as well as baggage. Are you having any issues with the factory cross bar mount remaining tight? Did you apply Loctite? I don’t understand how people are getting away with putting full length roof racks, tents, boats, and gear up there. Is it a mount bolt issue?
#67
Super Moderator
There is static load, dynamic/load in motion, 3rd party racks have more crossbars to evenly distribute the weight load.... there are probably other factors at play and some are probably overloaded... others may have thoughts or opinions too.
I've not seen official numbers from Toyota/Lexus on the roof capacity other than what is shown for stock bars and rails. I didn't need to apply any Loctite for factory cross bars as I need to move them at times for different loads.
I've not seen official numbers from Toyota/Lexus on the roof capacity other than what is shown for stock bars and rails. I didn't need to apply any Loctite for factory cross bars as I need to move them at times for different loads.
The following users liked this post:
Rick111 (03-20-21)
#68
Driver School Candidate
Yakima Load Warrior
There is static load, dynamic/load in motion, 3rd party racks have more crossbars to evenly distribute the weight load.... there are probably other factors at play and some are probably overloaded... others may have thoughts or opinions too.
I've not seen official numbers from Toyota/Lexus on the roof capacity other than what is shown for stock bars and rails. I didn't need to apply any Loctite for factory cross bars as I need to move them at times for different loads.
I've not seen official numbers from Toyota/Lexus on the roof capacity other than what is shown for stock bars and rails. I didn't need to apply any Loctite for factory cross bars as I need to move them at times for different loads.
The following users liked this post:
Acrad (03-20-21)
#69
Driver School Candidate
I have the exact same box on the same truck. But, I seem to have rubbing on the top of the roof when it is loaded. Do you have this issue?
When it is empty box, the tip of the clamps are only 1/4 inches off the roof so as soon as the box is full, it is touching the roof.
Any ideas?
Thanks
When it is empty box, the tip of the clamps are only 1/4 inches off the roof so as soon as the box is full, it is touching the roof.
Any ideas?
Thanks
#70
Driver School Candidate
any ideas?
I have the exact same box on the same truck. But, I seem to have rubbing on the top of the roof when it is loaded. Do you have this issue?
When it is empty box, the tip of the clamps are only 1/4 inches off the roof so as soon as the box is full, it is touching the roof.
Any ideas?
Thanks
When it is empty box, the tip of the clamps are only 1/4 inches off the roof so as soon as the box is full, it is touching the roof.
Any ideas?
Thanks
#72
Previously standard roof rack cross bars became an accessory to improve the MPG ratings.
CAFE ratings are performed with "all standard equipment" and the cross bars create a bit
of aerodynamic drag. Other cons include wind noise and difficulty in cleaning the roof.
CAFE ratings are performed with "all standard equipment" and the cross bars create a bit
of aerodynamic drag. Other cons include wind noise and difficulty in cleaning the roof.
#73
#74
I have the exact same box on the same truck. But, I seem to have rubbing on the top of the roof when it is loaded. Do you have this issue?
When it is empty box, the tip of the clamps are only 1/4 inches off the roof so as soon as the box is full, it is touching the roof.
Any ideas?
Thanks
When it is empty box, the tip of the clamps are only 1/4 inches off the roof so as soon as the box is full, it is touching the roof.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Thanks
Dazed
#75
Wanted to update;
i took the car to Florida with the box / factory rack and it was a mistake.
I kept thing light about 50lbs of bags on top but in the middle our way the box feet were hitting the front roof during uneven roads. I went up don’t see any scratches but still I won’t recommend using the cargo box with factory bars.
After reading anither thread here here I ordered the inno system and will take out the factory bars.
i took the car to Florida with the box / factory rack and it was a mistake.
I kept thing light about 50lbs of bags on top but in the middle our way the box feet were hitting the front roof during uneven roads. I went up don’t see any scratches but still I won’t recommend using the cargo box with factory bars.
After reading anither thread here here I ordered the inno system and will take out the factory bars.
Very old post... but was thankful the search tool found it. Taking the wife's new GX for a trip next week and I have the factory crossbars installed thinking I'm good to go with the cargo box. Tonight after reading this I got my son to help me put the Thule XT XL up on top. With the claws around the cross bars there is maybe 1/8" clearance. Pushing down inside the box w/o much force was causing the claws to tap on the roof. Etrailer... delivering the Inno system in 2 days. Not sure why I thought I'd search to see if any hits came up with "gx460 Thule XT XL factory bars". This was a big hit! Would have irritated the hell out of me hearing the box hit the roof on our trip.