Anybody done it before or we assuming that it will fix exactly? I will probably do this on my vehicle on the next oil change if it fits exactly. Thanks

 

Great Info!!! I'm gonna do this. If the current plastic one wasn't so banged up on mine I may have run with it a little longer. This metal one looks to last the life of the vehicle. Aside from my powersports equipment this is the first vehicle or Toyota product for that matter in my stable to use these kinds of oil filters. Just used to the old metal all in one units.

 

For the DIY'rs... do you find 8.2 quart oil/filter replacement fairly accurate to get you to the top fill mark on dipstick? Or does residual oil in motor still stick around in any way to put it over the mark?



EDIT: I plant to do an 8.2 qt change and draw down some via the newly installed Fumoto valve if it appears there is an overfill condition.

0.2 quart is about 6.4 fl oz

 

Here are videos of a cap swap. This is for 5.7L but steps are the same for 4.6L.

 

Reviewed previously posted threads again.

I bought the replacement cap and then realized I forgot to get this part as it isn't present on my existing plastic cap.

PN:



In addition make sure you get the oil filters that also include the plastic drain as they include the needed gasket. I ordered three of this kind.... I guess I'll keep the other three I previously purchased as spares.

This if you are going to convert to aluminum cover---->




Versus stock kit---->

 

I'd actually like to get ahold of the Amsoil plastic drain. I'd have to buy a filter though. It is threaded and looks like this.

Not a good pic but this is Amsoil filter for GX. Saw a Youtube of plastic piece... nice...

 

A few other stats:

Dry fill amount is interesting....



Oil filter cap torque



This was probably mentioned already but drain plug torque


Not that I would ever let mine get to this level but appears to be an oil level sensor as well.

 

just performed oil change around 5k after dealer's oil change, using 0w20 fully synthetic
the old black engine oil looks pretty bad,
will probably continue with the 5k OCI.

 

Ok. Very conservative approach.

 

Yeah I think 5K is very conservative. If I don't do 10k on the GX I probably stick with 7.5K or so. Good compromise. I've been doing 7K+ for most of my cars now.

 

Without sending it to a lab like Blackstone it is hard to tell what is the condition of the drained oil. Just because it's black it does not mean it's bad. If you put a drop on a piece of paper towel it is easier to guess if it is good or bad.

Also the condition of the oil largely depends on how and under what circumstances the car was driven. Short distances in extreme hot or cold calls for more frequent changes than driving long distances on highways. Our GX is driven infrequently at the moment, sometimes stays in the garage for a week or more so its oil is changed once a year. On my other vehicles driven daily I change it every 12 months or if I hit the 5-6k miles mark whichever comes 1st.

The bottom line is: IMHO changing the oil below the 5 k miles mark is a waste of money unless it's been a year old and the truck was driven daily.

 

I try to change yearly with my Amsoil in all cars. This usually puts me in the 7500-10k mile range.

That being said no idea what oil dealer put in my GX so will change it at 5K miles in probably a month. Oil is still really clean looking at 4K miles.

 

Just curious, if the service booklet says to change it every 10k/miles (unless extreme conditions) why would you change it sooner? My thought is if it's good enough to warranty by the Manufacturer that should be good enough for me. Not trying to entice a riot, but wouldn't that be like replacing your tires when only half their life has been used (or air filter, etc.)?

 

I agree. Unless you are putting your GX through some rigorous conditions (towing, dust, severe duty) I would stick with what the manufacturer recommends.

 

Consensus on videos and other forums this should be torqued to 9-10 ft-lb