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planning to use vacuum extractor to draw engine oil out of the tip stick tube.
advantages:
cleaner, less chance of oil spill on garage floor,
no need to mess with drain plug, drain plug washer, drain plug service hole plate, space is really tight without raising up
You still need to open and replace the oil filter. There’s at least 1/2 quartz or more in there. This is usually where the mess is because you have to remove/lower the large front skid plate. The oil pan drain is easy and only requires the removal of a much smaller plate, 2 10mm bolts.
I have been doing top sider oil changes for years on my other vehicles without issues, it does get all the oil out (yes, I checked). For the filter just cut a soda bottle into half and slide it under the filter while unscrewing to avoid making a mess.
i used a vaccum extractor to change the oil. It isn't any easier on our vehicles, you still need to remove the undercarriage Armour in order to remove the filter and to me that's what takes the most time.
agree, good thing that i don't need to raise up the SUV to change the oil filter.
I do have plastic rhino ramps but not sure if i want to trust them for this 5400lb SUV
maybe need to build a low profile ramp using plywood.
Originally Posted by pinoyesv6
i used a vaccum extractor to change the oil. It isn't any easier on our vehicles, you still need to remove the undercarriage Armour in order to remove the filter and to me that's what takes the most time.
I've got the 12k lb Rhino ramps and put the entire rig up on a 4 of them. I do overkill on safety though and keep my floor jack in there just in case.
With the Fumoto on there with the nipple it drains nicely into a container. Interested in one of the skid plate options that has the oil filter trap door built in. Current units for the 4Runner have this option.
When you purchase your oil change products (oil and oil filter) all you need to do is keep your receipt (s). This shows proof, also keep the receipts in a safe place. I store them with my owners manual in the glove box.
When you purchase your oil change products (oil and oil filter) all you need to do is keep your receipt (s). This shows proof, also keep the receipts in a safe place. I store them with my owners manual in the glove box.
Don't do that, with the thermal receipt papers that are often used today, you run the risk of losing the information of the receipt on the next hot day. Take a picture or scan the receipts at the very least. I purchase my supplies online so I have all the digital receipts.
Don't bother with this thing... I think it made a bigger mess. I probably should have cut the hose part on it so it was fairly short. I might try again one more time on next oil change with a shorter hose.
Originally Posted by Acrad35751
With the converted oil filter cap I might try this out:
I was actually wondering how much you can really drain through the plug since it is screwed in sideways. I used a fluid extractor back in December and I only had a few drops coming out of the filter housing.
I was actually wondering how much you can really drain through the plug since it is screwed in sideways. I used a fluid extractor back in December and I only had a few drops coming out of the filter housing.
You are right... I think this is better for the vertical filter mounts. I think the Toyota 4.0L is vertical as well. Thought I saw some pics of Tundra motors with it pointing down as well.
Nothing new to add, though I just completed my first DIY oil change on my GX. I swapped the filter housing over to the metal unit and went with Mobil 1 0W20. The last oil change was done by an independent Lexus garage here in town and they did not use 0W20, so I'm curious if I pick up a slight increase in MPG now that I'm running the correct oil.
Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. As others have stated, next time this will be a 30 minute service.
Anyone replace the stock plastic cover with one of these metal ones? Looks like one of the oil changes the previous owner had done on mine mechanic must have really tightened it down tight as some of the plastic fins on cap are chipped off.
I'll probably add a Fumoto drain valve as well. The ones with nipple are nice since you can drain right into the transport container.
Also found one missing bolt and one broken one on the skid plate so ordered two of them off of eBay. Looks to be a standard OEM Toyota part.
I thought I was going to have to tap the broken one out but fortunately was able to just screw it all the way through to the other side.
EDIT: I'll use a crowfoot wrench to apply the 30 ft-lb torque on the Fumoto
Acrad35751,
What method did you used to remove the broken
bolt on the skid plate?
What is the bolt part #?