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I have a 2011 GX approaching 100k. I’m due for my 1st oil change. Right now I’m on the 5k schedule. I’m assuming it’s not synthetic oil. Should I switch to synthetic at this point, which I assume would than put me on a 10k schedule. I have all service records and the rig has had oil changes every 5k from the start. Any thoughts??
I switched and one of our Toyota’s to synth at 105,000. I did a short interval on the first run in case the synthetic did some deposit and sludge removal to get it out of the pan. I also did a sea foam treatment, but that’s up to you and I know the opinions vary on it.
I have two LX470's with over 300,000k each and have only run synthetic. Both engines run as smooth as they day they were new and don't burn a drop of oil between changes. I use only OEM filters as well. I am a huge fan of synthetic as over time it pays off.
^ Just as bbq stated, 0W20 weight oil is synthetic but there are syn blend in this weight as well. I would continue with full synthetic without worry. Also I would do 5k intervals if most of your driving is city, and 10k intervals if mostly highway cruising. My previous GX470 was on synthetic 10k intervals with 170k miles- smooth and silky as new and no oil consumption between changes.
04152-YZZA5 - if you replace the plastic cap with a metal one then get this one (at least get one for the first oil change). It comes with 2 gasket and you need the small one for the small drain opening.
04152-YZZA3 - If you're not changing the filter cap then get this one. It only has a large gasket. This is also good if you replace the metal filter cap and use YZZ5 for the first change to install the small gasket. After that you don't need to change the small gasket again, then YZZA3 is fine.
Wherever the previous owner went for oil changes really hacked it up.
The skid plate was missing a bolt, and stripped another.
I'm going to have to re tap to a bigger bolt.
Also the stock plastic filter housing was soooo tight I thought it was going to break, or my 14" long 3/8 ratchet was going to break.
I'm an ironworker and tighten/loosen structural bolts all the time. There was over 100 ft pounds on that filter housing.
Changed it out to the metal one. If you do that, swap the metal strainer looking piece from your plastic one.
Hello,
Here is a screenshot of the parts and part numbers for the oil change. Please let me know if anything needs to be modified.
I plan to get the Fumoto valve, metal housing with cap, and the corresponding filter.
Should I replace my plastic one to metal? If so anyone have a part number or source?
Up to you. I believe a few others have decided to due to the low cost and high reward. For only $20-30 you'll have a housing that should last longer than the vehicle.
03-16-19, 06:03 AM
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