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Actually Budbuilt is redesigning them so filter door will line up for the 4.6L. I will be getting the first set sent out. I think they were going out for power coating this week. It's still kind of a beta so you won't see it listed on their website or for general sale at the moment.
I might go with a shorter Fumoto with the skid plates but even the long nipple version is room between the small access cover.
Why shorter? Is there concern that it could interfere with the skid plate? I plan to add the valve next time around, I forgot about it until I was under there this weekend.
I did just make an access door. I used some scrap plate, nuts and bolts, cut an access door, welded nuts on the topside, painted and done. I got extremely tired taking it all apart just to get to that filter.
I plan to add the valve next time around, I forgot about it until I was under there this weekend.
I had one of these oil-change valves at one point in the past, but removed given the restricted flow. Mercedes back when they made real cars (versus compromising to a price point during and after the Chrysler debacle) all models had an oil drain plug that was about 1.25" in diameter ... when removed, there was an absolute flood of oil exiting the oil pan ... along with the contaminants still in suspension.
So given the restricted flow of these oil change valves ... and the fact that their threads extend into the oil pan ... increasing the level of unchanged oil at the bottom that does not drain (that has the highest concentration of contaminants) ... I have concluded (yes, maybe anally) that these oil change valves are not necessarily a good thing.
How hard is it to remove an oil drain plug anyway ?#?
I've got a lot of powersports and small engines to maintain. Every little time saver helps with less tools (socket and torque wrench) to pull out and I can then drain directly into transport container. I'm a stickler for changing crush washers too so no need to replace that each time. Mine only takes around 10-15 minutes to drain. Sure slower than the plug I go and do something else during that time.
I've got a lot of powersports and small engines to maintain. Every little time saver helps with less tools (socket and torque wrench) to pull out and I can then drain directly into transport container.
I had one of these oil-change valves at one point in the past, but removed given the restricted flow. Mercedes back when they made real cars (versus compromising to a price point during and after the Chrysler debacle) all models had an oil drain plug that was about 1.25" in diameter ... when removed, there was an absolute flood of oil exiting the oil pan ... along with the contaminants still in suspension.
So given the restricted flow of these oil change valves ... and the fact that their threads extend into the oil pan ... increasing the level of unchanged oil at the bottom that does not drain (that has the highest concentration of contaminants) ... I have concluded (yes, maybe anally) that these oil change valves are not necessarily a good thing.
How hard is it to remove an oil drain plug anyway ?#?
why? here's some reasons, not all will apply to everyone, but they each could be a benefit to someone.
less tools needed to do the change. less tools to get out and put back.
no more chance to strip the threads.
no more need to change the plug gasket.
no more chance to drop the plug into the oil, or on the ground.
quicker.
ability to connect to drain tube for special collection containers.
put a slot in the cover, now no need to remove the cover, another time saver. yet another tool not needed, although at the expense of the valve switch tool. still saves time.
coolness factor.
I don't see the restriction as much, the GX doesn't have this huge drain hole like the example.
The valve could be modified to be the same as the threads, thus not really going into the pan or reducing oil drainage. I don't think its necessary. During the oil change, theres over a quart still in there, not changed. this little extra from the threads seems like it wouldnt make any difference. I change the oil warm, probably not even a chance for any contaminants to really settle at the bottom. not like a transmission, these have decent filters that can stop some stuff.
Hello All...I just need your advice on what brand of 0w20 full synthetic oil for my gx460 '11 with almlst 70k miles in Northern California, the previous owner was running Valvoline maxlife 0w20, Im thinking about switching to Castrol or Pennzoil 0w20 (full synthetic) or it is better to stick to Valvoline maxlife?
No off roading and very light city driving averaging 600miles/ month.
Thanks.
Unfortunate that Castrol semantically blurred the (legal) line between petroleum based motor oil and true synthetic oil ... so "Synthetic" now has about as much (or as many) meaning(s) as "Organic" does when shopping at the grocery store. Not meaning to "pull the pin on the (oil) grenade" ... the following is an interesting read and explains for those who care about such things ...
Unfortunate that Castrol semantically blurred the (legal) line between petroleum based motor oil and true synthetic oil ... so "Synthetic" now has about as much (or as many) meaning(s) as "Organic" does when shopping at the grocery store. Not meaning to "pull the pin on the (oil) grenade" ... the following is an interesting read and explains for those who care about such things ...
ST vs redline, so close i think that the equipment accuracy was the determining factor. It was clear that the ST won the cold flow test. this could be the most important, this is when the wear happens.
I feel better now with the ST i just put in yesterday.
ST vs redline, so close i think that the equipment accuracy was the determining factor. It was clear that the ST won the cold flow test. this could be the most important, this is when the wear happens.
I feel better now with the ST i just put in yesterday.
Unless you live where temps get extremely cold where cold flow is critical ... anti-wear additives like Phosphorus and Zinc are important for cold start wear ... in addition to wear under "extreme conditions". Using Mobil-1 as an example ... look at the specs (link below) for 0w-20 and for 10w-30 ... the Phosphorus and Zinc levels for the latter is 20% higher. Now scroll down to the "Racing Oils" ... again, significantly higher given the "extreme wear conditions". The push for lower Phosphorus and Zinc are emissions (catalytic converter life) related ... with the 0w-20 viscosity recommendation being CAFE influenced. So for my climate ... 10w-30 is a better choice given cold flow is not an issue, with the higher levels of ZDDP not only providing extra cold-start protection ... but also improved wear protection across driving conditions.
this site lists additives and contaminants. pretty similar, wish the ST was for 0.
main difference is that mobil1 has molybnium, ST doesnt.
ST has more phosphorous and more zinc.
ST/Walmart doesnt actually make oil, its repackaged from other companies based on type and location.
Hi Everyone - what torque do you use on Fumoto 20 or 30 ft-lb torque on the Fumoto? Also, which metalic cap is the good one (what is the actual part # for the cap):
04-07-19, 03:25 PM
