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Thanks for the reply, basically I only need the new canister and big o-rings, and filters? Fumoto valve will be in order possibly, and crush washers for the drain plug, and 8qts of M1 0-20. I read that thread on the Walmart ST Full Syn as well, that was interesting. Not sure how to take it though living in VA, not exactly Alaska for the cold weather benefits. ?????
Not all filters have the small O-ring for the small drain at end of cap. PN is in that other thread. You will need to pick up at least one of those to seal the metal end cap. Some may never change this but I typically change every other filter since I have a bunch that include it.
ive seen other vehicles have problems when moving the filter. the height, the flows, the valve on the filter.
i think similar vehicles had to mount the filter in a place that if there was a minor fender bender then the oil system would be damaged.
are there any issues or constraints when moving the GX filter that you had to deal with?
I’m not trying to be rude, but what’s the point of a topside oil change if you still have to be underneath for the filter change? Just less mess? I can see this being a great idea if the filter element is already up top (like some BMWs).
I’m not trying to be rude, but what’s the point of a topside oil change if you still have to be underneath for the filter change? Just less mess? I can see this being a great idea if the filter element is already up top (like some BMWs).
i assumed he had moved the filter. after rereading i dont see anything about moving the filter.
without a relocation i dont know theres much benefit
i was hoping for some new relocation area that didnt impede valves yet wasnt in a less protected location or more prone to slight impact damage.
I'm just after all the components I need to do my oil changes, and swap to the metal housing vs. the plastic one in place. I have skids and an access door, so I'm not sure on the clearance how it'd line up or not, and draining issues I don't want if the Fumoto valve protrudes into the oil pan, so I'll opt out of that for now, and just get the stuff I need to get this first change done. So filter, new cap, big and small o-rings, and oil? Sound right?!
I did topside oil changes on my VW TDI for the 10 years that I had it because the skid plate was a pain in the *** to remove, Good thing the cartridge oil filter was on top too and made it a breeze. Toyota (and others) should put their oil filter assemblies reachable from the top.
All of you who thinks its a lazy way should know that's how its done on a lot of diesel boat motors
I think I found a reason to do a topside oil change even if not relocating the filter.
If you drive 15,000 to say 25,000 miles a year, use a 20,000 mile synthetic oil filter and use regular synthetic 5,000 mile oil, you would change the oil more often than the filter. With this setup, you would change the oil when the dash message comes up, but not change the filter. This would be done to either save $ on the oil, or if you don't have faith in the extended oils such as Mobil1 extended synthetic (up to 15,000 mi).
My oil change message comes up right at 5,000 miles, it expects the non-extended synthetic oil and filters.
I drive about 17,000 miles a year, might go to the 15,000 mi oil, 20,000 oil filters, and do 2 changes a year. From what Ive seen I should be ok. I could time it closer but id like to do the changes the same months every year.
just read a bunch of research on how people are changing the oil too frequently nowadays with the available oil formulations.
any thoughts? what are your intervals? Which oil and filters do you use?
Mobile-1 (0-20) or Valvoline (5-20) whichever was on sale at Wally-world + stock toyota filter. Currently once a year as the GX is parked in the garage most of the time until one of our teenagers start driving more often.
I did both kind of oil changes in the past. I do not really like the topside way as it feels like you have to push the tube really deep down to siphon all the oil out. Next time I'll do it the conventional way.
I did my first topside oil change today, decided to share my experience. Wish I had take pictures.
I used the Mityvac 7300. It works off of my air compressor, but they do have models that you can hand pump if you don't have an air compressor. It comes with 4 hoses, small medium large and the brake bleeding hose.
The medium hose is the perfect fit for the dipstick tube. I marked the hose the same length as the dipstick to give me an idea of how far to push the hose. Don't worry if you don't put it down far enough like I did. The Mityvac has an 8.3 gallon tank which is slightly more than the GX's oil capacity. If you don't push it down far enough, you'll know because tool will stop sucking up oil yet it won't be almost full, just adjust the hose until it starts sucking oil again.
Next was the oil filter housing. I used this tool from ASR to remove the oil filter housing. I have the cap wrench as well but I prefer this tool because there is no chances of it slipping. It grips onto the ears of the housing.
Next thing I did was replace the oil filter housing with the one made for the Toyota Venza. I followed this tutorial on how to do it. Its the same instructions for the GX. The first thing you will notice is that it is metal. The plastic housing is sufficient but for $35 I have better piece of mind with a metal one. Second thing you'll notice is there are two parts. The housing itself and the cap on the end, you need to get both parts. When you remove the cap, you can add a funnel attachment to it so you can drain the oil filter housing before removing it.
Next is the oil filter element. The filter for the GX is part number 04152-YZZA3. Since I am using a different housing, I had to use a different part. I am now using 04152-YZZA5. It is the same filter element, the only difference between the two is that 04152-YZZA5 has the funnel adapter for the housing as well as the extra o-ring I needed for the cap on the oil filter housing. For less than $4 shipped each, its a good deal.
Last tool I got for this job was this Snap-On Funnel. I really don't need it for the GX, a regular funnel would do fine but I have other Toyota vehicles where it is better to have a funnel like this one. This funnel screws in to replace the oil cap when pouring in oil. Found it on ebay for $15, so it was hard to say no.
As for oil, im using Amsoil Signature Series 0W-20. I have a preferred account so a gallon of the oil is about $32, so $64 for the oil change. I have run this oil close to 20k on other vehicles so I am confident it will work just fine for the 10k oil change interval the GX has.
Insert applause. Amsoil has taken care of my vehicles for many, many years - successfully too!
All this effort to not get your hands dirty and not having to actually get under the vehicle ... maybe an electric anything would be a better use of your time and effort. I'm sorry but an oil change is not that complicated.
All this effort to not get your hands dirty and not having to actually get under the vehicle ... maybe an electric anything would be a better use of your time and effort. I'm sorry but an oil change is not that complicated.
plus all the other potential things you can notice while your under there. possibly notice something before it becomes a major issue
07-19-19, 06:55 AM
