When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
IMO: Assuming the cap isn't defective which I would think highly unlikely...they had to not put the primary gasket on right. There is one on the end cap but that is a spring loaded mechanism and doubtful you could get that volume of oil out of that hole so likely the main gasket used on plastic or metal cap. The cap only needs to be on there about 18 ft-lb
If you have a '14+ there is a low engine oil sensor so if that didn't trigger yet possibly down 3 quarts from what I hear.
I am convinced that the coefficient of thermal expansion is different enough between the plastic oil filter housing and the aluminum oil filter receiver that even with proper tightening on installation, the plastic oil filter housing with heat cycling is IMPOSSIBLE to remove without excessive force ... meaning a alarmingly long ratchet handle or breaker bar is required to initially break loose. I have switched my Lexus and Toyota vehicles to the Toyota OEM aluminum version, and use this filter wrench given it also has slots that engage the oil filter housing for additional grip ...
Also, I never remove the end cap ... draining prior to removal is not necessary and only wastes time, and the oil filter housing is horizontal anyway so what's the benefit ?
Turns out that the dealer did not install the oil-ring on the plug that screws into the back of the metal oil filter housing. All sorted now.
@ASE, I agree regarding that plastic housing, you really need a long handle to torque it off, which I found impossible to do from the limited space lying under the car.
Turns out that the dealer did not install the oil-ring on the plug that screws into the back of the metal oil filter housing.
Not to bag on dealerships, but to compete with the Iffy Lube places on price, they typically have a minimum wage "technician" performing oil changes ... someone who was fired from McDonald's last week, and received 30-minutes of training to be an "Oil Change Technician". The fact that the "technician" did not check for oil weeping or leaks in the filter area on initial startup after replacing the oil is complete and total incompetence (beyond forgetting the o-ring in the first place). IMHO, DIY is the only way to avoid this risk on what should be a benign maintenance procedure.
The same dealership risks apply with tire balancing (without the risk of destroying the engine) ... so dedicated tire places like Discount Tire are the better option.
Not to bag on dealerships, but to compete with the Iffy Lube places on price, they typically have a minimum wage "technician" performing oil changes ... someone who was fired from McDonald's last week, and received 30-minutes of training to be an "Oil Change Technician". The fact that the "technician" did not check for oil weeping or leaks in the filter area on initial startup after replacing the oil is complete and total incompetence (beyond forgetting the o-ring in the first place). IMHO, DIY is the only way to avoid this risk on what should be a benign maintenance procedure.
The same dealership risks apply with tire balancing (without the risk of destroying the engine) ... so dedicated tire places like Discount Tire are the better option.
Agreed. The only reason I was there was because I cracked the original plastic housing. The metal housing shouldn't give me this problem for future oil changes.
So I attempted to change the oil on my GX this past weekend and ended up cracking the plastic oil filter housing in the process. I had a filter removal tool, but it was torqued on so tight and I didn't have the best approach angle from under the car which didn't help. Anyway, I took it to the local Toyota dealer down the road and had them replace it with the metal housing alternative, i.e. part 15620-31060 housing, 15643-31050 plug. I thought I was good to go until I got home and saw oil leaking. Looked under the car and oil is sprayed up all over the underside of car, and look like leaking from the new housing. No oil is registering on dipstick so I'm assuming I leaked all 8qt of oil on short drive home. Had car towed back to the dealer this morning for them to fix. I'm assuming they didn't install the gaskets correctly, either the one for the housing, or the one for the plug. Anything else they could have screwed up to cause this major leak?
Anyone know if those same metal housing parts also are compatible with a 2021 GX? If so, I'll order them now as a preventable measure.
I have heard if you pick 15620-31040 you don't have to deal with the end cap piece (15643-31050)
============================ [Oil Filters] PN: 04152-YZZA3 PN: 04152-YZZA5 (if you need End Cap Plug O-ring) - metal cap retrofit mod/if you aren't replacing O-ring just get "A3" ============================ [Oil Filter Metal Cap Retrofit] PN: 15643-31050 / End Cap Plug PN: 15620-31060 / Cap Housing
PN: 15620-31040 / Cap Housing without end cap plug ============================
It is a sad fact that almost anything someone else does runs the chance of a tech who just does NOT care and zero quality control by management. It really doesn't matter WHERE you go - it pays to visually inspect what was done as soon as practical. Of course, when paying tip TOP dollar to a dealer - or going to a place where all they do is what they do - specialist, you would THINK the job (especially such a mundane SIMPLE task - would be done correctly. Nope.
Murphy's Law (as always) applies !
I have seen tire shops that ONLY sell tires - drop my rim SHINY SIDE DOWN - before mounting it. Yes - it scratched : (
I have seen brake jobs leave a repair shop without proper bleeding - and in another case LEAKING !
The only shop I ever delt with that was PERFECT in attention to detail was Coles Mercedes Benz in Mullica Hill, N.J. The owner IS the operator - and he is a one man band, in business forever (in the same location where his Dad started the repair business)
^ Agree with Repo ... as time passes with the increasing complexity of computer controlled everything, the OBD2 port has become the expert with many "technicians" highly limited in gaining any level of meaningful expertise or diagnostic skills ... essentially reduced to changing out complete assemblies. This combined with "book times" squeezing out any time for actual thought or pride of workmanship ... this profession has become "assembly line" ... really no different than primary medical doctors whose time and patient protocol is dictated by the insurance companies. This might all be good if costs were actually reduced as a result, but ...
I have heard if you pick 15620-31040 you don't have to deal with the end cap piece (15643-31050)
============================ [Oil Filters] PN: 04152-YZZA3 PN: 04152-YZZA5 (if you need End Cap Plug O-ring) - metal cap retrofit mod/if you aren't replacing O-ring just get "A3" ============================ [Oil Filter Metal Cap Retrofit] PN: 15643-31050 / End Cap Plug PN: 15620-31060 / Cap Housing
PN: 15620-31040 / Cap Housing without end cap plug ============================
Solid information and I appreciate it. I'll probably go with the 15620-31060 and the A5 filters. My wife's Camry had the same setup and it was a pain to change the end cap/ring. I also never used the end cap to drain the oil from the housing and found it easier to just take the whole thing off and dump it.
I have heard if you pick 15620-31040 you don't have to deal with the end cap piece (15643-31050)
============================ [Oil Filters] PN: 04152-YZZA3 PN: 04152-YZZA5 (if you need End Cap Plug O-ring) - metal cap retrofit mod/if you aren't replacing O-ring just get "A3" ============================ [Oil Filter Metal Cap Retrofit] PN: 15643-31050 / End Cap Plug PN: 15620-31060 / Cap Housing
PN: 15620-31040 / Cap Housing without end cap plug ============================
Wish I knew about the 'no end cap option' i.e. 15620-31040, would have saved me some hassle!
So recent owner of a 13 GX. I had a basic idea of the maintenance from the Carfax....or so I thought.
Got things lined up to do the oil change. Went to Satan's Five and Dime (Walmart) for oil/filter. The local Wallymart carries a limited assortment of Toyota filters. Checked the Helper touchpad and there was no reference to a GX460. But it showed for a Tundra with 4.6.
Should work? Same engine, no problems. Ehhhh wrong.
The 04152-YZZA4 for Tundra is too long for GX. My bad definitely. ALWAYS CROSS CHECK! So there I was with no filter and all the old oil drained out. Welp put the old filter back in. Dumped a 5qt jug in and prowled all over the internet for some cross reference info. Learned ALOT about oil filters from teardown vids. Flow-construction-longevity all of them pretty much were for canister filters. Also that Toyota filters flow very well but filtration is not tops. But like everything it comes down to cost-quality-speed.
So Autozone had STP's in stock. Advance had Purolator in stock and Wallymart had Fram in stock. Ended up getting the Fram Ultra as it is highly regarded even though it was $15, Ouch!
Came back dropped the oil and amazingly after driving 15 miles total. The oil was fairly dirty.
Which is an indication how bad the old oil was. So a bad became the good.
Old original oil. Another reason not to drive 12-15K on oil changes. It was thick-ish.
Oil with 15 miles. Useable for lawn mowers or chainsaws. But glad I got it flushed out. A better comparo.
On a good note. I got the Fumoto valve and aluminum filter housing installed. Bonus!
Anyone who wants the old plastic one for a spare, let me know.
So for "New" owners of used GX's learn from this and keep an eye on the oil after your 1st O/C.
I also just did the oil yesterday after 8 months and only 5k miles (I usually go for 7-7.5k). In my experience Mobil1 oil seems to come out darker than other, like Pennzoil or Castro but it is not always an indicator that the oil is bad. It may have cleaned more stuffs out? Ha!
Have you swapped out to the metal filter holder already?
04-19-21, 06:32 AM
