#Oil and #Filter Changes & Oil Filter #Metal #Retrofit Discussion
#541
I just do 5k mile changes with my "boutique oil" as some claim :-)
In all seriousness... I've used Amsoil for the better part of 20 years and it has worked for me. Perhaps it wasn't the best reason to stay with it but one of my snowmobiles blew out a gear case cover from a factory loose bolt and was still able to drive back over 80 miles on an empty gear case with no further damage. Still runs fine today after many thousand more miles and that was 18 years ago.
I did what ASE did on oil changes for new vehicle on my '07 Infiniti G35x and it doesn't use any noticeable oil between oil changes at 110k miles. That being said I have a little '15 CX-5 and I do use the Mazda OEM moly oil and it also doesn't use anything but it only has 65k miles.
Probably can't go wrong with any synthetic these days..... I thought I was doing something special 30 years ago putting in conventional Castrol GTX :-)
Just my $.02 and opinion
In all seriousness... I've used Amsoil for the better part of 20 years and it has worked for me. Perhaps it wasn't the best reason to stay with it but one of my snowmobiles blew out a gear case cover from a factory loose bolt and was still able to drive back over 80 miles on an empty gear case with no further damage. Still runs fine today after many thousand more miles and that was 18 years ago.
I did what ASE did on oil changes for new vehicle on my '07 Infiniti G35x and it doesn't use any noticeable oil between oil changes at 110k miles. That being said I have a little '15 CX-5 and I do use the Mazda OEM moly oil and it also doesn't use anything but it only has 65k miles.
Probably can't go wrong with any synthetic these days..... I thought I was doing something special 30 years ago putting in conventional Castrol GTX :-)
Just my $.02 and opinion
Last edited by ASE; 04-30-21 at 04:25 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Acrad (04-30-21)
#543
With only 320 miles on my 2021, I have asked the same question to several Lexus dealership mechanics and get 2 different answers on when to change the break-in oil. Most say best to do it around 1-2k to remove and metal shreds and stay with the 0-20w. One manager said, do not change it before 5k as the break-in oil is special oil that Lexus puts in and it needs to be there for 5k miles. So, no real answer from what I can find out.
The following users liked this post:
Novo (05-03-21)
#544
With only 320 miles on my 2021, I have asked the same question to several Lexus dealership mechanics and get 2 different answers on when to change the break-in oil. Most say best to do it around 1-2k to remove and metal shreds and stay with the 0-20w. One manager said, do not change it before 5k as the break-in oil is special oil that Lexus puts in and it needs to be there for 5k miles. So, no real answer from what I can find out.
#545
A (close to) constant coolant temperature (gauge reading) is not an indicator of the amount of heat energy that is being absorbed and dissipated by both the engine coolant and the engine oil in circulation. Your pretense has absolutely no engineering logic.
Last edited by ASE; 05-03-21 at 06:02 PM.
#546
Your use case for the truck should be a factor in oil selection. If you are just driving to work or heading to the grocery store, 0W-20 works great. If you are towing in the Rockies near max like I do, spinning lots of RPM's and generating a lot of heat, finding a heavier duty oil is probably a good idea.
RPM's are really what tell you the stress on the oil. The shear stresses in the bearings and piston rings will be higher at higher rpm. The oils high-temp/high shear strength helps determine how good that particular oil is at keeping metal things separated in those high stress locations. Heavier oils generally have higher HTHS. A US based 0W-20 might have an HTHS of 2.7 while a US Based 5W-30 has an HTHS of 3.2. A Euro 5W-30 is more like a 3.5. 0W-40's start getting to the 4.0 range. So the heavier oils have the ability to keep the metal parts separated in more extreme conditions.
This is why you see track oriented cars running 50 weight oils. Take the mustang 5.0 for example. A regular old mustang 5.0 is spec'd with 5W-20. A mustang 5.0 with the track pack has the same motor but is spec'd with 5W-50. Running a heavier oil in an engine isnt gunna cause it to blow up. It generally just causes increased drag from pumping heavier and maybe a little more wear from a very cold start.
So basically, if you expect to run your engine hard and hot, running a heavier oil is a good idea.
RPM's are really what tell you the stress on the oil. The shear stresses in the bearings and piston rings will be higher at higher rpm. The oils high-temp/high shear strength helps determine how good that particular oil is at keeping metal things separated in those high stress locations. Heavier oils generally have higher HTHS. A US based 0W-20 might have an HTHS of 2.7 while a US Based 5W-30 has an HTHS of 3.2. A Euro 5W-30 is more like a 3.5. 0W-40's start getting to the 4.0 range. So the heavier oils have the ability to keep the metal parts separated in more extreme conditions.
This is why you see track oriented cars running 50 weight oils. Take the mustang 5.0 for example. A regular old mustang 5.0 is spec'd with 5W-20. A mustang 5.0 with the track pack has the same motor but is spec'd with 5W-50. Running a heavier oil in an engine isnt gunna cause it to blow up. It generally just causes increased drag from pumping heavier and maybe a little more wear from a very cold start.
So basically, if you expect to run your engine hard and hot, running a heavier oil is a good idea.
#547
[QUOTE=skrypj;11045911]Your use case for the truck should be a factor in oil selection. QUOTE]
^ Agree with above, with "use case" also needing to consider ambient operating temperatures. Relative to the cold start wear consideration, 0w and 5w are not far enough apart to be material unless living well North specifically during in the winter months ... so bumping from 20 to 30 (0w-20 to 5w-30) is not a giant leap worth any level of consternation, while providing extra protection under load or high(er) heat conditions. Toyota recommended oil (weight) for non-US countries for the exact same engine provides engineering insight ... placing engine longevity as a priority over regulatory influence that views engine longevity as a secondary consideration to a fractional improvement in fuel economy.
^ Agree with above, with "use case" also needing to consider ambient operating temperatures. Relative to the cold start wear consideration, 0w and 5w are not far enough apart to be material unless living well North specifically during in the winter months ... so bumping from 20 to 30 (0w-20 to 5w-30) is not a giant leap worth any level of consternation, while providing extra protection under load or high(er) heat conditions. Toyota recommended oil (weight) for non-US countries for the exact same engine provides engineering insight ... placing engine longevity as a priority over regulatory influence that views engine longevity as a secondary consideration to a fractional improvement in fuel economy.
Last edited by ASE; 05-04-21 at 09:58 AM.
#548
My point (that I didn't explain very well) is that ambient air temperature is pretty much irrelevant for oil choice for an engine at normal operating temperature. The amount of work an engine does has MUCH more impact on heat generated, as others have pointed out, and if your engine is working near the margins of the cooling system capability then your oil choice may be impacted.
#549
Oil Filter Sanity Check
I picked up a case (5 filters) off Amazon the other day. All seems legit except that ever filter inside the boxes is stamped with a # that differs from what's on the box. Shouldn't they match? Can someone who purchased an OEM oil filter from say the dealer or an auto parts store confirm? Thanks in advance!
#550
I think you're ok... this Toyota site shows that filter element within that kit part # you ordered: https://parts.olathetoyota.com/oem-p...ter-04152yzza5
superseded data for oil filters in these listing as well: https://parts.toyota.com/p/Engine-Oi...4152YZZA5.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...change-17.html
superseded data for oil filters in these listing as well: https://parts.toyota.com/p/Engine-Oi...4152YZZA5.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...change-17.html
Last edited by nuclearn8; 05-05-21 at 05:01 AM.
#551
True, the gauge doesn't indicate heat throughput. But if your cooling system is successfully dumping that heat it doesn't matter.
My point (that I didn't explain very well) is that ambient air temperature is pretty much irrelevant for oil choice for an engine at normal operating temperature. The amount of work an engine does has MUCH more impact on heat generated, as others have pointed out, and if your engine is working near the margins of the cooling system capability then your oil choice may be impacted.
My point (that I didn't explain very well) is that ambient air temperature is pretty much irrelevant for oil choice for an engine at normal operating temperature. The amount of work an engine does has MUCH more impact on heat generated, as others have pointed out, and if your engine is working near the margins of the cooling system capability then your oil choice may be impacted.
#555