L3xusGX

Good deal and I appreciate the confirmation. I can also see the same part number stamped on the filter in the pictures @nuclearn8 posted.

ASE

10w-30 for me ... and now with 5w-30 replacing, that will be my go-to weight. Can't wait for the next round of CAFE influence ... 0w-16 ... Yeah

John00

It is an indicator of the amount of heat energy being transferred. This constant temp value indicates (not considering broken gages, etc.) that the amount of heat energy transferred is below the max capability of the system. EDIT: Pure physics viewpoint, you cant transfer more energy than the max capability of the system. Here we're talking about exceeding a threshold and then things accumulating damage.
gage reading ~normal = amount of heat energy ~normal
gage reading >>> normal = amount of heat energy > energy transfer capability of the sub-system

the close to constant coolant temp (and in acceptable range) indicates that the energy isn't exceeding the sub-system (including all paths) designed transfer capability. With a pretty much fixed max transfer capability, this indicates whether the amount of energy has exceeded the max transfer threshold or not.

Not the best for quantification, but for indication of trend or threshold passage it works.

LexusGXFan

I'm with ASE on the thicker side of engine oil.

While a 20 weight might be fine, the most important thing to remember is fuel dilution with the 4.6L engine and why an Oil Analysis be completed to include a GC (Gas chromatography) test to find the amount of fuel present in your oil. A sample with the flashpoint alone will not give an accurate % of fuel present in the sample.

The engine is very easy on oil, but short tripping this vehicle will definitely cause a quick and constant reduction in the oil viscosity if you don't get the oil up to temp to allow the fuel to "burn" out of the oil .

nuclearn8

https://blog.amsoil.com/what-happens...cosity-of-oil/

LexusGXFan

And this engine is made to run up to a 15w-40 and 10w-30 oil based on ambient temps and 5w-30 for year around use.

ASE

I would think Toyota knows something about this engine ... obviously capable of running a range based on ambient temperatures ...

skrypj

The problem with that blog post is the extremity of the example. Going from 0W-20 to 15W-50 is extreme for a normal person. That said it is also not unheard of in certain situations. Go back up to my previous post about the 5.0 in the Mustang. In the regular GT they spec 5W-20 and in the GT Track Pack, which is the same exact motor, they spec 5W-50 because they expect you to be beating it on the track.

They also mention that "15W-50 racing oil may be too thick to flow quickly enough to fill the spaces between the crank journals and main bearings while the engine is running." The oil pump is a constant displacement pump. It will move the same volume of oil at the same RPM regardless of the oil weight. If we come back to reality and talk about normal oil grades, it would simply not be an issue to run a 30 weight oil, especially in a GX that is being worked hard.

ASE

All interesting conversation ... but Toyota, who designed this engine, has a sliding recommendation based on AMBIENT temperatures. Easy enough to understand.

GXLEXD

I've used this thread to change the oil on my GX and per the recommendation of several people I went ahead and got rhino ramps to do the job; I like them and just saw that they are on sale at advanced auto parts. There is a thread on slickdeals, but in summary, with the coupon code its $30 for a pair, or $60 for 4, I think thats pretty good and a savings of $20 over amazon if you were to buy 4.

skrypj

Yeah, one thing that irritates me with the GX is that I cannot slide under it on my creeper with it sitting on the floor. I have to get it up a few inches to fit. I end up using my Rhino ramps for most jobs underneath and will sometimes lift the rear from the trailer hitch using my floor jack to get it level.

My F150 I can just slide under and change the oil.

John00

oh no rhino ramps.
make some solid ramps out of 10 or 12" wide boards. rhino ramps will eventually fatigue. dont wana be under there when they fail
look at the underside and see the stress fractures. they are there.

ppororo

Is it absolutely necessary to lift the GX to do the oil change? I am getting ready to do the first oil change on mine. I have a pair of rhino ramps that I've used for my sedan (also jack & stands), but am looking for a lazy way out.

While I was replacing the running board lights to LEDs I noticed that I could slide under the vehicle (w/o the creeper). Unless I need additional clearance to remove shielding parts, I figure I'd give it a shot without lifting.

ASE

I never lift ... access and reach is easy. The only issue is with removing the front skid plate to access the oil filter. Once unbolted, there are two hooks in the front of the skid plate that allow the skid plate to swing down without dropping. These hooks have a double bend (best description) with the last bend making it hard to remove the skid plate from the front frame cross member unless the vehicle is lifted just 1-inch more ... so I ground off the second bend, so now lifting the vehicle any amount is not necessary to easily disengage these hooks.

skrypj

for me on my creeper it is necessary. That lifts me another probably 3" off the ground so i can't really fit.

I would rather just spend the 30 seconds driving it up on ramps then try to squeeze under. Usually, cutting corners to save time ends up just costing more time and frustration. I can remove the turbos from my F150 Ecoboost from the top, but if I spend the 10 minutes to remove the tires and fender liners I can do it through the wheel wells and its much faster overall.