I use the Fumoto's for convenience & time savings. I'm often servicing a lot of gear at the same time like multiple vehicles, powersports equipment and lawn equipment. It does take longer to drain but this hasn't been a big deal while working on the other vehicle.

 

Did you partially remove your dipstick and oil filler cap before removing the drain plug?

TBH, not actually sure if either of those things would increase or decrease pressure, might depend. Just got my GX a week ago and am about to do an oil change soon...Regarding those two questions I posed above, I'm gonna do the opposite of whatever you did, lol.

Also going to use a shoulder length field dressing glove used for hunting to prevent getting my arm full of oil, lol.

 

Thanks to all who contributed with a wealth of info. I added a F133 w/ long nipple at the first oil change for my '21.

 

Shouldn't be "sediment" in there if your filter is doing it's job, unless your motor is shedding metal and about to cash it in anyway.

0W20 is thin enough to drain nicely and reasonably completely even when cold IMO.

 

I don't think I loosed the oil fill cap or pulled up the dipstick prior to removing the drain plug, although both these actions would eliminate any vacuum that would slow the oil's evacuation... I think it's just that 0w20 oil is so thin when hot it just flows FAST.

1st oil change on a new to me vehicle, being done well before it should be due, as part of my baselining.

Drain plug was perfectly clean, but you don't know what you'll find in there until you pull the plug, so probably not necessary for next time.

 

I have about 85K miles in my 2015 GX. We live in CT. I have been using Mobil 0W20 for past oil changes. I plan to switch to Mobil 5W30 (normal type, not high mileage one) going forward for all seasons, would there be any issue for the switch? We have some cold winters here, not too bad though. I care more about engine protection.

Thank you.

 

Been using Mobil-1 10w-30 since new ... now using Mobil-1 5w-30 given the majority of retailers have shifted inventory to that now being more
mainstream. My winters may drop below freezing for 3-4 weeks, with summer temperatures being 75-95 degrees ... with the latter (more recently) becoming more prevalent.

To your question ... 5w is good for the majority of US winter conditions, and the 30 weight providing improved protection as summer temperatures continue to trend higher in many areas. I use the "Extended Performance" given the sale price is only $5.00 more when purchasing the 5-Quart jug. I still change the oil and filter every 6,000 miles ... 2-times per year based on annual mileage.

 

While I was in Colorado, 0W-20 was fine.. Here in Texas ( DFW ) I'll be using 5W-30 Mobil1 EP.

Oil / Filter change interval for me 7000 miles.

 

no there is no issue running 30 weight. I plan on running 10W-30 from here on out. Ive only done 2 oil changes on mine so far an the first was Supertech 0W-20 the second was Mobil1 EP 10W-30 that i scored with a mail in rebate for like $15 per 5 quart jug. Ill just keep using 10W-30.

 

Hello, I am changing over to the metal canister oil filter (doorman brand) do I need to change the oil filter? This is the one I ordered from amazon.

Lexus 04152-YZZA3, Engine Oil Filter

 

No, the old one fits as it did with the plastic one.

apparently not, see image below:

 

Both the filters are one and the same but they are being called different numbers, just like the air filter. only thing need to be changed is if the internal filter cylinder length is shorter than the plastic one, better to replace with the longer one from the plastic/original filter housing.

 

Dorman brand? Please don't use that and get an OEM one instead. Dorman is probably the worst aftermarket parts company and their products are no good.

 

Sending back the Doorman oil canister and the OEM coming tomorrow.....I did not see it before on Amazon...all good now

 

Went to do an oil change on the GX today using the proper metal filter removal tool and couldn't get the thing to budge. Last oil change was performed by the dealer under CPO agreement. After a hard struggle and many, many attempts, one of the fins on the housing snapped off. I was really putting some torque behind that pry bar, way more than i should have needed too. After the shock and panic subsided i called my local Dealership to get a new one ordered and couldn't help notice all the hits on aluminum units for the GX. Is this something to invest in since i will be doing the changes myself from here on? Other then the dealer over torqueing the housing is there a issue with the plastic OEM part?

Yes, I know I should have stopped at some point and taken to dealer to deal with. Not discussing that bit of impatience on my part.
Nor am I going to discuss how much "money do I really save by doing it myself"!