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when theres not much clear, easily understandable, actively usable data is when theres usually not a consensus on things.
metal in the oil? particulate size would be very important. All used oil will have some metal and no amount of frequent changes will remove it all. but if its too big it can both indicate a major issue and sometimes cause secondary major issues. you dont want to keep large particulate floating around. hopefully you have a decent filter.
frequent changes also will not remove all sources of metal particulate. this does not mean people should stop or take too long between oil changes. what is too long? some analyses can help with this, and it depends on the oil in many cases.
oil suppliers balance the line to maximize profit. they want you to change oil as often as possible so they sell more, but then the next supplier claims 20k mi on a change and takes away sales. so they do a profit loss curve and say you can change less. then they charge more for supplying less. as stated above no one has your interests in mind.
The same way the manufacturers claim the bare minimal 10,000 mile intervals so they can claim a lower cost of ownership over 3/5/10 years than the competition. And if the engines gunk up post warranty, sorry buy a new one.
Im not a mechanic but I have stayed at a holiday inn and I watch allot of YouTube videos! It seems that with the old Toyota 4 banger if you actually did 10K intervals it caused damage in the long run and they would burn oil. If you did 5-7k intervals those issues rarely popped up. Let’s not even get started with the BMW waste gate issues with 10K intervals.
For me potentially wasting overpriced boutique Amsoil allows me to sleep better at night if there’s even a slight chance that I’m helping my engine run cleaner and cooler for much longer.
This is only because I plan on having this thing for the long haul. On my wife’s leased BMW which I have no intention of keeping I wait until the times up message pops up and only then does it get BMW bulk synthetic. If we were planning on keeping it beyond the lease I would definitely baby those turbos. I hope the second owner gets an extended warranty.
Originally Posted by John00
oil suppliers balance the line to maximize profit. they want you to change oil as often as possible so they sell more, but then the next supplier claims 20k mi on a change and takes away sales. so they do a profit loss curve and say you can change less. then they charge more for supplying less. as stated above no one has your interests in mind.
@Acrad can you confirm what the size difference is between the standpipe in the plastic OEM oil filter housing and the retrofit metal housing? Just want to confirm that I have the correct size one since the metal version was installed by a local Toyota dealer.
Sorry... all of that stuff is buried away in a box somewhere in my garage at this point.
As for that video... only difference I saw between A3 and A5 was as stated in parts thread:
PN: 04152-YZZA3 PN: 04152-YZZA5 (if you need End Cap Plug O-ring) - metal cap retrofit mod/if you aren't replacing O-ring just get "A3"
Same height on ones I have ever had. He mentions A1 when holding up the A3 & A5 at around 10:30 mark. I never tried to use an A1 and my tube is fully enclosed on retrofit so no oil bypass issues.
If you want a metal cap you don't have to retrofit go with --->
PN: 15620-31040 / Cap Housing without end cap plug
I only used OEM caps with mine and not 3rd party metal ones.
Thanks for that info. Just wanting to confirm however, when switching between OEM plastic to metal version, do you have to replace standpipe on metal one with the standpipe from the plastic one or leave as is?
You do need to swap stand pipe from plastic into this metal housing though:
PN: 15620-31060 and the end cap is sold separately 15643-31050
This is the option that the Toyota dealer installed for me, which is why I want to verify that they swapped out the standpipe correctly. When the oil filter is installed, it sits above the standpipe, i.e. top of standpipe sits below top of filter. I just want to make sure it's at the correct height to prevent bypass.
I think the big issue with stand pipe is plastic stock one is longer than the one that comes with the metal cap so filter wouldn't be properly supported if you left the short one in place using the metal cap.
Another problem would be if someone used an A1 in the stock plastic cap as that filter is shorter than the A3/A5 and would leave stand pipe exposed as shown in video
Hmmm, that 4R conversion page shows the standpipe sitting just below top of filter, makes me think they didn't swap out my standpipe since mine sits a fair bit lower than that. I don't see any deformities on the filter after replacement, so I'm assuming that it's getting sufficient support from the standpipe, plus my latest Oil analysis indicated 'good oil filtration', so am wondering whether I should leave as is.
I really should say "filter MAY NOT be properly supported". Perhaps it would be more of an issue with counterfeit or cheap aftermarket filters versus the OEM Lexus/Toyota ones?
I know this is beating a dead horse, but for the sake of documentation. Here is the difference between the 15620-31060 and 15620-31040. 15620-31040 being the correct replacement for the plastic cap. I made the mistake of buying the wrong one and just installed the correct one.
15620-31040 on left, 15620-31060 on the right. You can see there is more of the pipe supporting the filter. But I don't see any issues with the used filter, which had about 5000 miles on it. Cap1
never experience the extraction of oil, but I install a fumoto oil drain valve in my Tacoma and it works great, now I am doing the same in my wife GX460
I am still trying to find out the filter change without the skid plate removal
BudBuilt skids... They have GX front skid plate with an access panel to get to the filter. Even if you never need this type of protection, the ease of filter change is worth it!
I have that with the skid covering the oil pan. You need to contact them because I only wanted these two pieces and not the full 3 piece set. Build quality is top notch.
And I also have the Fumoto (always do that on my vehicles). The oil skid has an easy way to access the Fumoto valve. Agree with the previous post on the oil extraction. When I do my oil changes on the GX I use ramps and then I use my Pella Pump 6000 oil extractor (just make sure the oil is at temp). With the vehicle on ramps the extractor pulls 99% of the oil out. I open the Fumoto valve after I'm done extracting and nothing comes but a few drips. That with the Budbuilt skid allows me to get the oil change done w/o mess and w/o taking my skids off.
I have also swapped out my plastic oil filter can for the metal one with the insert to drain the filter housing. I rarely get any oil splatters/spills and makes the job enjoyable.
My 22 GX is a year old and I have 5200 miles on it. Oil and Filter Change is to be done at 10K miles. Do I need to change the oil and Filter or wait almost another year before changing it? I am retired and do not drive that much so that's why my GX has such low mileage.
08-07-22, 09:52 AM
