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yes. i cut mine, welded nuts, made a new plate door. similar to aftermarket plates. for me it was 2 things. one was with my ramp setup it was way easier to use the door. another was that there was a problem with one of the bolts which made it not possible to remove as usual. i had to cut some stuff out and weld some other stuff. if i remember correctly it was where one of those bolts threaded in to.
theres a few examples somewhere on here of doors in plates. im glad i have mine.
To all those who do your own oil changes. Taking the front skid plate off seems like the only way to get to the filter BUT those f.ing notches… that hold the plate from dropping… I can’t seem to figure them out. Have a set of 6.5 inch lift ramps… doesn’t feel like enough for some reason. How much ground clearance on the ramps do you need to take it off? Could not find any videos on clear instructions on it
From memory, the plate had to hang all the way down in order for you to be able to release the pan from those hooks. Painful to do when lying under the car with limited clearance. Part of the reason I replaced it with the budbuilt skid plate.
GX's ... 4-Runners ... FJ-Cruiser ... I used a Dremel Grinder to remove the "Double Hook" ... it's the second smaller one that is a PITA to disengage to your point. Remove this smaller secondary hook and the skid is easy is easy to remove with Rhino Ramps in terms of height.
Agree that those retention hooks are not good. You can't really tell when they are actually in the slot, and I have fought with them both times I have removed the skid plate. The GX470 accomplished the same thing w/o all the headache.
... designed for lifts ... where the "drop" allows disengement while being a safety feature to prevent it from prematurely dropping. For DYI in the driveway ... a PITA ... hence my removing these secondary hooks.
Long time user of Fumoto Valves so I am familiar with the different models.
I currently have one on my Tundra as well as all the Motive X goodies to assist with the oil changes.
We bought a new 23 GX this year and only have about 2500 miles on it so far.
I plan to change the oil in the near future and have not opened the access panel under the car yet.
I would like to add the Fumoto Valve when I do the oil change and was wondering if someone can confirm what direction the drain plug is. (is it on the bottom or side of the pan?)
Will a F133N (Nipple) fit without any issues, or should I go with the F133S or another?
I do like to run the hose directly into an empty container or drain pan.
I also swapped over to the metal filter housing on my Tundra and plan to do the same with the GX, unless there are any issues that I am not aware of.
I appreciate all the help and if you have any pictures of your fumoto valve installed it would be great.
This is mine, facing down. Appears to me that mine is the version w/o extension.
looks like the short nipple valve. Do you use a hose adapter or just let it run into a pan? Any idea how much space between the end of the valve and the plate?
I purchased a new 2023 GX in July. I did the first oil change at 500 miles and verified that there were a fair amount of metal shavings captured in the oil filter. At 5,000 miles, I drained the oil, but did not change the filter. Yesterday, at 10,000 miles, I changed oil again. I did find a few metal shavings in the oil filter. The filter obviously did its job and looked clean otherwise.
Really just an FYI post. I’m glad I changed filter at 500 miles and recommend another filter change at 5,000 miles. I certainly don’t support following Lexus’ service recommendation of first filter change at 10,000 miles.
how to take off the tube from 31060? It’s impossible to take off for me and I don’t want to spend money on a new 31040
Try again, it works.
if I remember correctly you have to push it down quite a bit and then tip it to the side to unhook the tabs on one side. The other side comes right out then.
10-05-23, 07:47 AM
