Oil and Filter Changes & Oil Filter Metal Retrofit Discussion
07-28-12, 05:18 AM
#76
It's really not difficult to change the oil on the GX. Plenty of room under there and the skid plate comes off with a handfull of bolts. Toyota designed it well enough where the skid plate has hooks on it to prevent it from completely dropping after the bolts are removed and aiding in re-installation.
The only caveat it to make sure you have the toyota oil filter socket wrench. I've tried it with a tin wrench socket and it just spun around. Strap wrench was a no go too. Giant slip joint pliers will work but not easily.
The only caveat it to make sure you have the toyota oil filter socket wrench. I've tried it with a tin wrench socket and it just spun around. Strap wrench was a no go too. Giant slip joint pliers will work but not easily.
07-28-12, 11:53 AM
#77
You don't have to remove the skid plate, The mechanic unbolted an access to get to the oil filter. I took mine to the Toyota dealer for my second oil change. My Lexus dealer is 120 miles each direction from my home.
07-29-12, 07:22 AM
#78
08-23-12, 09:20 AM
#79
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I changed mine the first time and said I'd never do it again. Between the cost of the oil/filter and the hassles of getting to it, it's well worth the $90 the dealer charges.
10-03-12, 11:44 AM
#80
Driver School Candidate
Just changed my oil on the GX last night, was quite easy and you do have to remove the skid plate allthough its super easy. the hatch is for the drain plug. Essentially right behind the bumper and before the skid plates is a plastic piece that should be removed, it has 4 bolts and a plastic clip, an electric drill makes short work of this. The skid plate has 4 bolts and swings down to reveal great access to the cartridge filter. The drain plug is under a separate skid plate but has an access door with 2 bolts. I change my tundra which is way worse than this.
10-03-12, 01:00 PM
#81
Just changed my oil on the GX last night, was quite easy and you do have to remove the skid plate allthough its super easy. the hatch is for the drain plug. Essentially right behind the bumper and before the skid plates is a plastic piece that should be removed, it has 4 bolts and a plastic clip, an electric drill makes short work of this. The skid plate has 4 bolts and swings down to reveal great access to the cartridge filter. The drain plug is under a separate skid plate but has an access door with 2 bolts. I change my tundra which is way worse than this.
10-10-12, 01:09 PM
#83
Driver School Candidate
Oil and Filter Changes & Oil Filter Metal Retrofit Discussion
OK, here goes. There are a lot of oil change posts on this site so I figured I would take some pictures. I'm not a mechanic and I haven't applied torques so thats up to you. This is how I changed the oil on my 2010 GX. I used the Toyota 041524ZZA5 filter and 7 plus litres of Mobil 1 0W20 Synthetic oil.
I started by driving up the GX on ramps, the manual says to turn off you leveling if you have it. I didn't.
Next is to remove the air dam right behind the front bumper and partially connected to the front most skid plate. All from memory but I beleive it has 5 bolts and a plastic clip. An electric drill and socket makes short work of this. Take the plastic clip out first as the weight of the air dam with the bolts removed might break it.
Next undo the front most skid plate, it has 5 or six bolts, once done it will swing forward on 2 clips/hinges. then lift it off. This skid plate is hard to remove if you dont take off the air dam first.
Place the skid plate and air dam aside. Also notice what looks to me like a jacking point on the skid plate, the big round hole at the bottom of the picture has a large spindle behind it that pushes up against the vehicle.
I started by driving up the GX on ramps, the manual says to turn off you leveling if you have it. I didn't.
Next is to remove the air dam right behind the front bumper and partially connected to the front most skid plate. All from memory but I beleive it has 5 bolts and a plastic clip. An electric drill and socket makes short work of this. Take the plastic clip out first as the weight of the air dam with the bolts removed might break it.
Next undo the front most skid plate, it has 5 or six bolts, once done it will swing forward on 2 clips/hinges. then lift it off. This skid plate is hard to remove if you dont take off the air dam first.
Place the skid plate and air dam aside. Also notice what looks to me like a jacking point on the skid plate, the big round hole at the bottom of the picture has a large spindle behind it that pushes up against the vehicle.
Last edited by seahaul; 10-10-12 at 01:25 PM.
10-10-12, 01:13 PM
#84
Driver School Candidate
Next find the filter, its straight up above where I removed the skid plate. use your 'metal' filter wrench to remove it. This housing does not have a end drain like other Toyota cartridge filter housings. Let it drain a while before replacing the filter, only tighten it back up just past hand tight. (my opinion)
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lji (05-12-24)
10-10-12, 01:16 PM
#85
Driver School Candidate
With the new filter installed, replace the large packing/o-ring on the side of the housing. also notice the white plastic drain is of no use if you get it in the filter kit as there's no end drain. Additionally the smaller, thick o-ring, is no good either; It is for the housing drain if we had it. I've added pics of it.
Last edited by seahaul; 10-10-12 at 01:26 PM.
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lji (05-12-24)
10-10-12, 01:20 PM
#86
Driver School Candidate
You can let the filter housing drain a while but I dont have 2 pans so I re-installed it and moved to the drain plug. Its located under the middle skid plate with 2 bolts. Remove and let drain, I add a litre or 2 as a flush. replace the plug with the little blue gasket if you have one. Dont tighten the drain plug too tight, use the proper torque!!!
Install all the plates etc. in reverse order. Oh yeah and notice there are skid plates covering the transfer case here!!
Install all the plates etc. in reverse order. Oh yeah and notice there are skid plates covering the transfer case here!!
Last edited by seahaul; 10-10-12 at 01:27 PM.
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lji (05-12-24)
10-10-12, 01:22 PM
#87
Driver School Candidate
Last, I added about 6 litres of Mobil 1, started the engine and watched for leaks. Checked the dip stick a topped up to 7 plus litres. Let warm up and checked for leaks again while I cracked a second beer! Checked the oil level again just for fun. Its done.
Last edited by seahaul; 10-10-12 at 01:28 PM.
10-10-12, 02:44 PM
#88
Someone who's not afraid of getting their hands dirty - I applaud you, sir!
Surprised at the amount of rust visible in the pictures.
Surprised at the amount of rust visible in the pictures.
Last edited by rockydog; 10-10-12 at 02:49 PM.