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Absorption at cold might be a concern
heres an example with a charging table. http://lifelinebatteries.com/wp-cont...cal-Manual.pdf
for some it can come down to their driving vs not driving time in certain conditions
some auto users do whats listed in the conditioning section once in a while
charging is usually rated in C, then use the current to convert, then determine the voltage to drive that current. we wouldnt do that in practice on a vehicle.
It might be good to monitor the voltage while you drive.
I think the GX alternator capacity is fine. The voltage booster is apparently to raise the charging voltage for the AGM or it never gets quite fully charged and could affect overall AGM lifespan.
for compression, I did the same battery for my 2016 LX as well (since the OEM battery had been discharged several times and just didn’t hold charge well anymore). The interesting part that is LX alternator only provide battery charging at 13.8v while GX provides 14.27v during idle status. I would imaging the charging voltage should be slightly higher during driving.
Yes. I did a measure for the alternator charging voltage, it indicates 14.27v on the charging. I thing that I am good to go. Besides, I do have a AGM compatible battery tender charger, if the car sits longer, I can always charge it. Will see how this one lasts. My OEM still good ok, but does show struggling during winter. It just passed 7 years mark.
A little bit off topic, when you swap out your OEM battery, did you maintain DC 12v during the process. I am in similar situation, my OEM battery is 6 years old and I like Costco battery offerings.
A little bit off topic, when you swap out your OEM battery, did you maintain DC 12v during the process. I am in similar situation, my OEM battery is 6 years old and I like Costco battery offerings.
I was originally planned to maintain power during swap, but got disconnected during swapping due to the new one is a bit lower in profile and I had to rearrange the terminal cable a bit. But as Acrad had stated, no issues for disconnecting the power, upon restart, the NAV will reload, the steering wheel indicator will reappear after a short straight driving. Everything else just as before.
would below costco group size 27 fix GX well? it is also 7 more pounds more than costco size 24
thanks
27F will fit just fine. Seems only certain Costco carries 27F. I could find any Costco near me has 27F, only 24F. I ended up went with H6 AGM because the spec is slightly better than 27F, with similar in physical size as 27F except a slightly lower in heights.
I did not. The vehicle had been off for around 30 minutes. I did get that initial stall at start that can occur but fired right up next time.
Other than driving short distance to get my steering direction indicator back I haven't noticed anything else awry. I think the nav region got reset last time but will need to double check.
Would you guys ever lose your seat memory settings when battery is disconnected (assuming you don't use 12v DC backup source). Thanks.
Swapped out lexus OEM battery (6+ year old) with new costco group 27F battery suggested by Acrad, it fit and works perfectly. Thank you all for the help here!
I didn't use any 12v backup power and I have no issue to start up the car the very first time (the process end to end is about 15 min for me). All computer/memory stuffs are kept as-is, except for following items from center display, which is no big deal for me at all. One key thing is to disconnect negative terminal *first* for old one, and reconnect negative terminal *last* for new one, make sure no short ever happens.
front tire angle (lost, but re-appear after 1/4 mile driving)
avg fuel consumption (lost, I had 19 mpg before)
avg speed (lost, I had 32 mph before)
elapsed time (lost)
Group Size: 27F $93.99*
Item Number 1131901
Group Size 27F
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) 710
Cranking Amps (CA) 890
I thought I would make a post about what I experienced when my battery suddenly went bad. and would not be jumped by one of those small jumpstarter devices that are so convenient for keeping in the glove box. We have been through a cold snap (15 - 25 degrees for several days. My OEM battery is about 4-5 yeas old (2018 GX Premium). The car had been starting fine minutes before but I went to restart and I just got a rapidfire clicking sound. Nothing under the hood, engine not turning over. I seemed to have good power in the car though. I noticed the center instrument cluster was displaying "BSM Not Available" and the head unit was blank. I have never experienced a BAD battery, only a dead one and that is usually a situation where you can see other indications of no juice getting into the people compartment. So I was a little nervous like "Oh darn, I have an electrical system problem".
SO I got out my handy dandy clove box jumpstarter which I have used to help jumpstart OTHER cars and it is a little miracle. No clumsy cables, etc. SO I hooked it up and the little LEDs on idid NOT go to a "Ready to Jump" state. Uh Oh. You see this thing has some indicators on it that tell you when it is ready for you to try the ignition, and those indicators never got right for me.to try turning the engine over. It has some internal logic or something. But I tried anyway. No joy. Still with the high-speed clicking sound.
On a hunch I tried real jumper cables and it started right up.
So for any other folks like me who don't mess with electrical or batteries and rely on one of those little jumpstarter devices, just be aware that it may not save your bacon in every battery use-case.
I replaced the battery with an Interstate MTB-24F AGM. I doubt that the extra 70 bucks for the AGM will prove worthwhile for me because I pretty much only iuse the battery to start the truck and not any other accoutrements, but what the hell.
04-24-21, 11:04 AM
