SlickTRD

it would not help as the 6000lb oem rating is from mounting to the sides of the ladder frame as well. if you want full capacity you will need to get the oem hitch. at 4000lbs you should be fine as long as you use a weight distribution hitch and your trailer has brakes too.

ASE

Personally, I do not consider the 4-Bolt "Hitch" a Hitch ... is is a "Receiver" intended for light duty towing given it only attaches to the rear frame cross member ... works great for pulling small trailers, etc but does not have the safety factor that the full-on Hitch provides when towing heavier payloads ... as SlickTRD stated above.

IanG

Just a question more that a solution, I see that Draw-Tite appear to make a side frame rail mounted hitch for the LC Prado (part number 75904). It has slightly less capacity than the OEM at 5500 lbs with WD but 825 lb tongue weight. Not sure if this would be a bolt-on for the GX

ASE

If the pictures are representative of the actual part number ... it attaches to the side frame rails as does the Lexus OEM hitch, but DOES NOT attach to the back frame cross member immediate to the receiver (as does the Lexus OEM Hitch) ... so the higher tongue rating does not seem to make sense.

arrkerr

My 2016 hitch moved fine to my 22 w/sport. I just moved it myself, was pretty darn easy.

Edit: just to add, this still worries me. I tow a 6k trailer often enough, and if something is dangerous I want to know. What can it possibly be. They obviously aren't going to change the frame, and if it was something like spacers or bolts they'd fix that. Could just be a supply issue, but that seems somewhat crazy but not unheard of especially now. Still, now when I tow there is that voice in the back of my head saying "this might be dangerous". And if they do recall it, I probably won't qualify since it was on the 2016 that I sold initially not the 2022. Also just to add, I re-used the same bolts from my 2016 when I moved it, but only because I had a really hard time finding those bolts locally - our home depot still has one single drawer of metric stuff and nothing rated the same. If I can source the bolts elsewhere online I'm probably going to replace them, they did collect a lot of dirt and corrosion and one of the wiring harness bolts (you move it from the factory location out to the hitch on the OEM install) did break off, but obviously had nothing really to do with the hitch its self - just had to drill/tap it.

Edit2: I meant to quick reply to an earlier post, but as other have said just make sure you get the spacers. I used the same two that came on my 2016 on my 2022. Removing the bit of trim designed for this purpose left me enough clearance. I don't follow why some people only are ending up with one spacer instead of two, or none at all, but I bought my 2016 and 2022 from the dealer and they installed it so I'm trusting what they put on. And please be honest when you sell your vehicle, when looking at used cars I would sure want to know if the hitch was factory or not, and if someone had spaced it out with washers, etc. Nothing against it, but thinking you've got a 6500 tow capacity on a vehicle and turns out it doesn't could be fatal. I'll be very honest that my curt hitch on my primary doesn't have lights and definitely was installed for a bike rack to the next owner .

mike202

Just happen to see this:

GX460 Tow Hitch - $225 (Parker)
https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/...613559529.html

I have no affiliation with this seller.

ASE

"Hitch" ... not all equal. IMHO best to install the full-on full towing capacity hitch that attaches to the frame rails. Anything less is asking for a bad situation when someone connects a major trailer load. The OEM Lexus full-on hitch can be bought via discount internet dealers for a fraction of local pricing. Installation is easily 1-hour of labor ... so any stealership that quotes otherwise is a being opportunistic.

For me ... go big ... or go home ... the simple 4-bolt "Hitch" is only good for bicycle's or very light trailers.