Vibration/Shake Issues
08-23-17, 09:49 PM
#526
On a lasf ditch effort you should have the tires "road force" balanced. I had the same issue when I purchased mine. Normal balancing of tires will help the vibration slightly but if the tire is out of round (because of a defect or misalignment) it will continue to vibrate for the simple reason that it isn't round. If it is not in the steering wheel its likely one of the rear tires that is probably suspect, either way I would have all 4 done. If the tires are old I would replace them anyway.
Dont go to the dealer as they may not have he latest balance machine. Specifically ask for "road force" balancing and if they don't offer it move on to the next shop. Discount tire in my area is equipped with them so it may be worth a call.
it can run about $150 since they have to balance, dismount and then re balance.
Dont go to the dealer as they may not have he latest balance machine. Specifically ask for "road force" balancing and if they don't offer it move on to the next shop. Discount tire in my area is equipped with them so it may be worth a call.
it can run about $150 since they have to balance, dismount and then re balance.
08-24-17, 02:21 PM
#527
Driver School Candidate
OE tires are known to be a problem. Michelins have problems with flat spotting from sitting too long. My GX sat on the lot from May till Jan. It's still shaking on occasion, dealer can't fix it, new tires soon, not Michelins. I may try road force balancing, seems a shame tires with so much tread left are junk.
08-29-17, 06:26 PM
#528
Racer
Well it's been at the dealers now two days and they've Road force balance the tires twice and they still don't know what's going on. Mean while I'm driving around a 2017 RX350. That thing has way more technology than the GX. Drive is much better compared to last generation RX. I have a feeling my days owning a GX may be numbered at this point
08-29-17, 07:27 PM
#529
T4Fun, have you considered the rotors that was my fix? Post 28 and confirmed later in the below thread. My vibration came back but I think it is the wheel balance now after a rotation and balance job. I struggled for years with this and new rotors was the fix. Since you are under warranty and the dealer is having a hard time with a solution, I would recommend new rotors.
You mentioned "and it's quite random it seems" on post #4. I experienced the same with random shaking.
I assumed you saw this, sorry if not.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...-speeds-2.html
You mentioned "and it's quite random it seems" on post #4. I experienced the same with random shaking.
I assumed you saw this, sorry if not.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...-speeds-2.html
08-29-17, 07:42 PM
#530
Pit Crew
T4Fun, have you considered the rotors that was my fix? Post 28 and confirmed later in the below thread. My vibration came back but I think it is the wheel balance now after a rotation and balance job. I struggled for years with this and new rotors was the fix. Since you are under warranty and the dealer is having a hard time with a solution, I would recommend new rotors.
You mentioned "and it's quite random it seems" on post #4. I experienced the same with random shaking.
I assumed you saw this, sorry if not.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...-speeds-2.html
You mentioned "and it's quite random it seems" on post #4. I experienced the same with random shaking.
I assumed you saw this, sorry if not.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...-speeds-2.html
08-30-17, 02:33 PM
#531
Racer
So as it turns out dealer tried to Road force balance the tires several times. The force they stated being applied were too high meaning ALL the tires are not round and bad. Sucks. I have to talk to tire rack now . Unbelievable. DONT GET THE MICHELIN DEFENDERS! I am wondering now if michelin quality is as good as its been in past.
Last edited by T4Fun; 08-30-17 at 06:03 PM.
09-01-17, 06:37 AM
#533
Racer
well seems michelin and tire rack quite helpful in getting the tires replaced. Going to get a new set and send old ones back. Looks like tire rack will road force test them before sending them to me.
09-06-17, 06:05 AM
#534
Driver School Candidate
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I have seen allot of thread regarding vibrations in the car and people going straight away for replacement without identifying the root causes. The vibration root cause is always from rotating parts so exercise should be to narrow down the problem to the most probable part causing vibration, the list is below:
1. Wheel balancing, get the front wheels balanced, if steering is vibrating. Alignment has nothing to do with it.
2. Rim bent/ damaged or misaligned, check without tyre on balancing machine with a bench mark for radial and lateral alignment of rim.
3. OEM bolts for the rim, non standar bolt will also cause misalignment of the rim fit-up.
4. Wheel bearings adjustment : if the bearings need adjustment, you need to check the wheel not to be loose or indicate any play on the hub, you have to know the allowable tolerance for the bearing and check it with the dial gauge.
5. Front wheel hob deformed due to strong jerk, check without tyre with dial gauge or bench mark with a stationary position.
6. Hub bearing misalinged due to strong jerk, check without tyre with dial gauge or bench mark with a stationary position.
7. Rear Wheel bearings condition: worn out bearing will induce humming or squeaking sound or may vibrate one side badly, which means the bearing needs replacement.
8. Misaligned bearing in the hub: If the bearing is somehow not installed to the correct alignment, the rotating hub will always create vibrations. This can be checked by visual inspection and checking the extreme position of the tire or rim at a certain point for a complete revolution.
9. Gear Mount: If gear lever and body is vibrating in idle position, check for visible crack on the gear mount rubber, also see the gear mount is note displaces to the bottom end of the metallic case of the gear mount. Always get OEM gear mount.
10. Engine Mounts: If you experience vibrations in idle position or on signal:
a. you can check engine mount condition by opening the hood and check the engine movement while shifting between the drive and reverse positions;
b. Keep the hood open and engage brake and give slight race, the engine should not come up more than half inch, if it’s more, engine mount is gone. , care shall be taken in racing the engine as it can damage the parts. Always get OEM engine mount.
11. Spark plug malfunctioning / spark plug cable short/ burnt.
12. Front flexible disc: Visible long cracks around bolts and in the body
13. propeller shaft center bearing worn out
14. propeller shaft center bearing - mounting worn out
15. U-joint: you can check the relative movement between the front and rear shaft and if U-joint is loose, can also hear a knocking sound between drive and reverse gear shifts, due to lose joint, or you can manually rotate shaft for play, vibration appear on different critical velocity of the shaft when it is loose. Care shall be taken for yoke seal surface in case of it’s a sliding type with the differential as I have seen allot of videos are not emphasizing on care for the polished surface protection and they keep on hitting the polished end on the ground and do not instruct to cover and finally clean the yoke polished end before final insertion in the differentia, .this will impact the life of the differential due to differential seal leakage and dry running.
16. Rear Flexible dis: Visible long cracks around bolts and in the body, you can check the discs by engaging parking hand/ paddle brake and slightly race the engine, this will further displace the cracks on the disc, care shall be taken in racing the engine as it can damage the parts.
17. Center shaft bearing- if the bearing is bad it will create sound and if the mount rubber is gone, again it will create minor vibrations.
18. Rear Axle CV joints: if boots are gone and lost the grease, the joints will catch dust and wear out, but without this condition, it’s not a possibility for vibration. Normally loose CV joints induce vibration on acceleration as well in front wheel drive cars, I don’t have experience with rear wheel cars behavior.
19. Defective tires with bulges, this will also cause a continuous vibration in the car. Tire can be checked on a balancing machine by checking the tire profile with a reference mark for both walls and tread side of the tire.
20. Bent Axle or Drive shaft: This is rare case for an axle or shaft to bend as they are hard to reach for any damaging criteria. In case these items are misaligned, take them to a machine tool shop who can straighten them.
The problem has to be narrowed down to check each above listed problem.
You can add more issues known to you to this check list and then go for a final maintenance activity.
Cheers
1. Wheel balancing, get the front wheels balanced, if steering is vibrating. Alignment has nothing to do with it.
2. Rim bent/ damaged or misaligned, check without tyre on balancing machine with a bench mark for radial and lateral alignment of rim.
3. OEM bolts for the rim, non standar bolt will also cause misalignment of the rim fit-up.
4. Wheel bearings adjustment : if the bearings need adjustment, you need to check the wheel not to be loose or indicate any play on the hub, you have to know the allowable tolerance for the bearing and check it with the dial gauge.
5. Front wheel hob deformed due to strong jerk, check without tyre with dial gauge or bench mark with a stationary position.
6. Hub bearing misalinged due to strong jerk, check without tyre with dial gauge or bench mark with a stationary position.
7. Rear Wheel bearings condition: worn out bearing will induce humming or squeaking sound or may vibrate one side badly, which means the bearing needs replacement.
8. Misaligned bearing in the hub: If the bearing is somehow not installed to the correct alignment, the rotating hub will always create vibrations. This can be checked by visual inspection and checking the extreme position of the tire or rim at a certain point for a complete revolution.
9. Gear Mount: If gear lever and body is vibrating in idle position, check for visible crack on the gear mount rubber, also see the gear mount is note displaces to the bottom end of the metallic case of the gear mount. Always get OEM gear mount.
10. Engine Mounts: If you experience vibrations in idle position or on signal:
a. you can check engine mount condition by opening the hood and check the engine movement while shifting between the drive and reverse positions;
b. Keep the hood open and engage brake and give slight race, the engine should not come up more than half inch, if it’s more, engine mount is gone. , care shall be taken in racing the engine as it can damage the parts. Always get OEM engine mount.
11. Spark plug malfunctioning / spark plug cable short/ burnt.
12. Front flexible disc: Visible long cracks around bolts and in the body
13. propeller shaft center bearing worn out
14. propeller shaft center bearing - mounting worn out
15. U-joint: you can check the relative movement between the front and rear shaft and if U-joint is loose, can also hear a knocking sound between drive and reverse gear shifts, due to lose joint, or you can manually rotate shaft for play, vibration appear on different critical velocity of the shaft when it is loose. Care shall be taken for yoke seal surface in case of it’s a sliding type with the differential as I have seen allot of videos are not emphasizing on care for the polished surface protection and they keep on hitting the polished end on the ground and do not instruct to cover and finally clean the yoke polished end before final insertion in the differentia, .this will impact the life of the differential due to differential seal leakage and dry running.
16. Rear Flexible dis: Visible long cracks around bolts and in the body, you can check the discs by engaging parking hand/ paddle brake and slightly race the engine, this will further displace the cracks on the disc, care shall be taken in racing the engine as it can damage the parts.
17. Center shaft bearing- if the bearing is bad it will create sound and if the mount rubber is gone, again it will create minor vibrations.
18. Rear Axle CV joints: if boots are gone and lost the grease, the joints will catch dust and wear out, but without this condition, it’s not a possibility for vibration. Normally loose CV joints induce vibration on acceleration as well in front wheel drive cars, I don’t have experience with rear wheel cars behavior.
19. Defective tires with bulges, this will also cause a continuous vibration in the car. Tire can be checked on a balancing machine by checking the tire profile with a reference mark for both walls and tread side of the tire.
20. Bent Axle or Drive shaft: This is rare case for an axle or shaft to bend as they are hard to reach for any damaging criteria. In case these items are misaligned, take them to a machine tool shop who can straighten them.
The problem has to be narrowed down to check each above listed problem.
You can add more issues known to you to this check list and then go for a final maintenance activity.
Cheers
09-06-17, 07:08 AM
#536
Racer
Thanks for the informative response. In my case it turned out to be high road Force numbers being applied to the tire so the tire wasn't exactly round. Tire Rack sent me new tires so we will see if that is indeed the issue
09-06-17, 07:16 AM
#537
My wife was complaining of a little vibration. Might have to look into a Road Force Balance (definition: ?, explanation: ?, Summary: ?) [I've never heard of such a thing]
10-04-17, 02:00 PM
#538
Driver School Candidate
Sorry for the thread resurrection, but was this ever resolved? I have the same thing, though it's from about 1600 to 1900 rpm. It doesn't seem to be a safety issue, just a bit annoying. It seems to happen across gears and at different car speeds, but always in that specific rpm range. The issue seems intermittent, though it's more prevalent when the car is cold.
10-04-17, 02:11 PM
#539
10-04-17, 02:19 PM
#540
Driver School Candidate
If the vibration in question has a frequency of 1.5 Hz like in the linked thread, then that's not it. Mine is much more of a buzz and you hear it more than you feel it, although you can still feel a very high frequency, low amplitude, vibration through the floorboards (it's kind of like the sensation of touching a handheld massager, but much less obvious).