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Oh and integrating load resistors can't hurt. Is the factory amp Class D? I think it may be and if it is Class D does better with a load resistor on it .
Scott, yes from everything I have read- our factory amplifier is class d- most manufacturers are going to class d because its more efficient and cost less to produce compared to a factory a/b- so i think running those resistors is going to be a good idea-
If you're planning on the D.6 1200, based on what you said, at least my thinking is: you can probably get away with just tapping into the front 2 channels of the factory amp that run the corner dash speakers and tweeters, (keep in mind, those tweeters have a capacitor connected inline with them then the corner dash speakers are wired in parallel) once someone gets one of these DSP amplifiers we can verify, but I'm thinking using those 2 channels and the 2 channels that run the 2 front door speakers are going to be enough to give you your complete full range signal if you sum those two together at the DSP- then from there you can configure that signal to go to each of the output channels on the Audio Control Amp and set your crossover points and eq the way you want.
If you plan on using the corner dash speakers and a 6x9 like you listed in the doors, and I'm guessing here, a pair of coaxials in the rear doors, you could purchase a nice set of 2 way 4" components run the tweeter in the factory a pillar location, run the 4" driver in the corner dash (on 2 channels), run your 6x9's on 2 channels, and run the rear door coaxials on 2 channels.
Like you said, that amp does have a dedicated line out, so you can use the DSP to set a sub signal and its crossover points out to a sub amp later on.
Something worth mentioning on the audio control amp as well as the JL audio DSP amps- is they both have signal sensing turn on, so you really only would need to run a power wire to your battery, and ground it where you mount the amplifier, you don't need a remote turn on, but with the audio control amplifier at least, you can use the remote turn on connection point as a remote 12v output to turn on a different amp like in your case, if you decide to run a sub amp later.
I'm set on running the audio control amp because of the software and dsp- and because technically- besides running a power wire to the battery and finding a grounding point for the amp, with that PAC connector- you should be able to connect everything up under the passenger seat without running and new wires or cutting/modifying any of the factory wires.
I will note- if you do decide to run aftermarket tweeters, I would recommend that you find a used pair on ebay- I found a set for like $30 shipped- I can just repin the connector on the factory tweeter (so its no longer ran in parallel with the corner dash speakers), and modify it to fit my new tweeter-
if you do go this route though like I suggested say, running a 4" 2 way component set as you've stated you want to keep your corner dash speakers, be aware that your factory amp only has 2 channels wired and powering the corner dash speakers and tweeters- so you would have to use those two channels of wiring at the factory amp to go into say a passive crossover, then you would have to run one set of new wires up to either the tweeters or new corner dash speakers if that makes sense- you could always mount the passive crossovers up in the dash so you wouldn't have to run the wires far at all if you can find the room.
Not sure what year GX you have, but I plan on at least trying out keeping the stock center channel speaker hooked up for center fill to see how it sounds, if I don't like it, I can always remove it.
So my speakers are blown jbl gto939.... cant believe factory amp blew these babies up they are suppose to be rated at 100w rms i believe.....
For the front door speakers since the signal thats going there just acts as a subwoofer should one try different type of speaker instead of the usual 2way/3way 6x9 ?
Do they make 6x9 or even 6.5 subwoofers that i can try to install using factory source
you might want to take a look at sonicelectronix or woofersect and see what they have. this set (below) for example seems reasonably priced for those just wanting to upgrade the factory speakers- the 6x9's play down to 45 hertz which is pretty decent for a 6x9 speaker and they come with a pair of 3.5's that would fit in the dash corners- ultimately, until we know exactly what frenquencies/cross over points the factory system is sending to each speaker, its going to be difficult to make a solid recommendation on speaker choice. Also, each person has their own definition of what sounds good to them, as a general rule of thumb for example, a soft dome or silk tweeter is not as bright as a metal/aluminum tweeter- if you like super crisp and loud harsh highs like say in techno music, you might prefer the metal/aluminum tweeter, if you listen to jazz you might prefer the soft dome/silk tweeter instead- likewise woofer construction and material also can determine/dictate a sound preferance as well. Then there's the frenquency response range- if you're wanting the most boom/bass out of a 6x9 you would want to get one that plays lower, this kenwood set- it plays down to 45 hertz which is decent, there's a lot of 6x9's that get super loud but only play down to 55-60 hertz- so not so much on the bottom end. I will say that I have heard a pair of Kenwood's excelon 7" component sets in a friend's Lexus- it had some sound deadening and some stinger fast rings installed and even running off the factory amplifier, they sounded very good- much better than expected for their price. And the 7" Kenwood speakers are available at crutchfield and show to fit the GX front door- this other set from sonicelectronix doesn't confirm if it fits the GX, but it does fit many Toyota's- so I would imagine they would fit.
Lastly- I'm not even going to sound deaden my entire doors when I do my install however I will do some and play around with it until I'm satisfied, 90% of the time an aftermarket speaker doesn't sound good is because it wasn't installed correctly- all the little foam pieces and spacing/placement of the factory speakers is definitely there for a purpose- to make the cheap speakers sound their best- so when you go to install you aftermarket speakers, one of the first things you need to consider is installing them in a way that mimics the way the factory speakers have been installed. A set of the stinger fast rings on amazon is about $18/pair and some decent sound deadening for just to apply behind the speaker mounting hole and behind it on the door skin can be had for $20-40 per door- these make a huge difference from what I have heard in person.
i wouldn't try those memphis 6.5 as they are designed for an enclosure- like a subwoofer uses- that's just my opinion. the ones in your link are dual voice coil 2ohm so you would want to make sure if you do decide to get them, that you wire them to get a 4ohm load or you will more than likely damage your factory amplifier.
your other option, would be: purchase a 2 way component set and use the woofer out of that set to replace your factory 6x9, from what I've heard, the factory tweeters are still pretty decent- if you're keeping the factory amplifier to use.
Yes im keeping factory tweeters they are great and I've already replaced the dash speakers so with the JBLs jn the door it was almost perfect for my needs but the jbls are almost blown now so i need to have a replacement ready soon b4 they get worse and out of commission.
I didn't know i could just use the component speakers separately so i might look into some of those or heres another option 6x9 woofers
yep- that shouldn't be any issue with using just the woofer out of a component set- I can vouch for the Kenwood Excelon 7" set- https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113XP1...FC-XP184C.html
they put out suprisingly good sound and bass for that price range and they don't have a separate bulky passive crossover to deal with installing- I have heard these in a friend's Lexus running off the factory amplifier and to me, they sound as good as many other more expensive speakers.
the cdt 6x9 woofers are also good, I would be concerned they will need a bit more power than what your factory amplifier puts out to sound their best- you can call wooferect and speak to someone and get their opinion, they are very helpful.
Need help! Gx460 rear doors speakers don't have much powerwhat can I do?
[QUOTE=tecman;8806210]As many of you know the base audio system in the GX isn't very good. I have visited a couple of shops and the estimates I received were high so I decided to replace the speakers to see if this would help.
I bought the Infinity speakers and for comparison I bought some lower wattage Kenwood speakers for the dash.
I removed the 3 dash speakers and faded the system to the front. I installed the Infinity on one side and the Kenwood on the other. When fading left to right the Kenwood sounds louder and with better highs (Kenwood it is).
I did the same test for the 6x9 front doors but used the factory vs.the Infinity. I can't tell a difference here (I didn't have the door panels on) I think the Infinity needs more power.
I took a ride to Best Buy to get the lower wattage Alpine and Pioneer speakers. On the drive I only had the rears and the 3 Kenwood dash speakers installed and I am happy with the Kenwood sound. During the installation I found that the center speaker is by far the dominant of the 3, I could feel the cone moving much more than the left and right. I wonder, since 2 pairs of speakers have to be purchased, maybe a higher wattage for the center? Just a thought...
I installed the front door speakers that day and drove it for a couple of weeks. I used my hardwire iPod the most and was happy with the results. I installed the rear speakers over 2 weeks ago and and again factory vs. Pioneer, WOW I can really hear a difference in clarity here.
Overall difference, it is like I had rags stuffed in the speakers and removed them. I have a cleaner stronger bass that I can now turn up 2 more levels. I have better highs and can turn my treble down 1-2 levels from my constant max setting. I also went up 2 levels on the mid. I feel like I have a stronger wattage system, I can push the volume level more. I will say after doing most of my testing with the iPod, when I went to satellite and Pandora it reminded me of how bad the sound quality is from these sources. Of course there is an improvement here, but the hardwired iPod is much better.
Here is what I installed,
1 Metra 82-8148 rear speaker adapters (Amazon $16)
1 Metra 82-8146 front speaker adapters (Amazon $16)
2 Metra 72-8104 speaker connectors for the doors only (Amazon $6x2)
2 Kenwood KFC-835C (Amazon $30x2)
1 Alpine SPE-6090 (Best Buy $90)
1 Pioneer TS-A1675R (Best Buy $40)
Total with some items taxed is under $250, I had a hard time with spending so little but that is the good thing with a speaker upgrade only. You can only spend a limited amount.
I would recommend that everyone with the base audio system at least replace the 3 dash speakers. This is a cheap and simple install and it is a significant improvement in quality.
Returned speakers
Installed speakers
factory, Infinity and Kenwood comparison.
Pry the left and right up from opposite the windshield and pull it toward you. The center has clips all the way around.
I didn't find anything like the Metra speaker connectors for the dash so I spliced it.
The larger magnet will fit snugly with the plastic air pipes.
Noo!! This is not the way to go.
Hmm..4 wires, I was hoping that the head unit processed this. I didn't change the tweeters out. I am happy with the highs I have now.
Remove the arm rest and the window/door lock and unplug it.
Remove the plastic window pillar triangle. Only 2 screws to remove, 1 behind the door release(remove the plastic cover) and the 2nd is behind the arm rest that was removed. Now, just pull the door panel off starting from the bottom.
To reinstall the panel you need to remove the black metal window strip. This piece has to be pushed down on the door and it also has clips for the door panel, so the 2 needed directions will not work while it is attached to the panel (I hope that makes sense).
Push the strip down on the door and pop the door panel back on (be sure to check that the clips are seated properly).
There is a slot for the wire on the adapters so pay attention to the direction that the speaker needs to be mounted in order to line up with the door connection.
Rear speakers with the connection outside of the speaker (just the way it worked out).
Hey there!
My problem is this: I already tried to install new speakers for the back doors, but they barely got any power, what can I do to make it sound like the ones in the front doors? Thanks in advance.
01-18-21, 10:28 AM
