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Did something similar to @Train45 - But I completely removed the passenger side 3rd row seat, and retained the false floor. This gave extra depth/height for the box, and a great place for the two amps (Rockford T1500.1BDCP and JL HD600/4). The Alpine PXE-0850S DSP went under the remaining 3rd row seat (just enough room behind the rear seat and under the 3rd row seat!) It also drives the rear door speakers with it's internal 25wpc amp.
Main 1/0 power run comes in through the main passenger-side engine harness grommet. A small undersized "+" shaped puncture on the outside of the grommet allows it to slide in and retain a good seal. Run down passenger scuff-plates - then a small cut in the cargo-area side-panel by the wheel-well to allow an un-pinched exit in the cargo area/3rd row and to a distro/fuse block.
I will say - If you want to retain your factory system into your aftermarket DSP, YOU MUST USE Front Door (6x9) and Dash feeds (mid/highs) to get a full-range signal from the factory non-ML system. I was informed the front door 6x9's were indeed "Full range". They are NOT! I didn't scope it - but I'd say they cross to the dash around 800Hz-1KHz. Sum them at unity gain in your DSP and it reconstitutes a full-range signal fairly well. The stock stereo system has some DSP/TA applied (not horrible) and the stupid Loudness curve (seems "flattest" around factory volume 45-50). But its clearly obvious when switching from the stock radio Door+Dash feed to a SPDIF or Line input to the aftermarket DSP. I'd recommend separate TA/DSP presets for your DSP if using Factory radio as a source, and a separate set of presets for any "Real" sources that bypass the stock radio.
This system is clean and loud while being simple and completely removeable and revertible to stock. The front-stage is insane. Just like I like it. Not cheap - but fantastic audio never is...
Hot-Glued tweeters into factory locations (high-temp glue directly to the A-Pillar trim) - worked incredibly well and effectively coupled to the existing "waveguide" in the A-Pillar.
4" Mids fit well with minimal issues. Filled gaps with dense foam. Cut 4" holes in factory grilles with a hole-saw, then covered the stock speaker grilles with black speaker-grille fabric. Allows un-obstructed dispersion with a stock-ish look. The factory dash grille would otherwise block a good deal of cone-area and cause nasty resonances and reflections back into the dash. Used foam to seal stock grille to outer edge of midrange.
This single 12" blows my mind. Had 3x of the same 12"s sealed in my 4Runner on 2800WRMS, and this single ported 12" is within 6dB SPL in the 35-50Hz range!
w/BT Module, SPDIF Input, and Speaker Level feeds + Summing from Factory Radio
Wired Remote mounted just below factory radio turret (by the SD card slot for the factory Navigation).
Pics - Sorry if too big:
Added some minimal deadening (not shown). The GB690's are well-suited here! And I like them better in the doors than the $1K Morel Elate 9"s I had in my 4Runner with 2x the power! Didn't take a lot of pics during the install "Amp Rack" part of Sub Enclosure and mounts to rear-seat bolts. Before false-floor re-installed After false-floor installed. Amps remain below the false floor level! The remaining panel was removed non-destructively - still need to finish it.
great minds think alike! i also used hot glue to mount my tweets lol. how do you like the audiofrogs? i like the morel tempo ultra 6x9's i have in the doors now but if they just had a little more excursion they would be perfect.
I recently learned the lovely benefits of hot glue. But I also learned, in the automotive world, it is a MUST to use the high-temp hot glue. Summertime will melt the regular hot glue. At least if you live in Texas. Lol.
I will also say – I am a Morel fanboy. I had the Morel Elate 9” in my 2013 4runner. Specifically, the ones from the three-way system, which had a different design from the two-way.
The doors in that 4Runner install were heavily damped and the installation was really good. They had the full might of an entire JL HD 600/4. 300 W each. It was a very clean midbass. But I always felt they were lacking in the midbass “oomph” 90-120Hz range in the doors. But they were very very very clean.
Conversely – I performed minimal damping and barely covered the large gaping hole in the door of my GX. These audiofrogs are giving me more satisfying midbass than the Morel Elate 9”s did - and with half the power (150w on Audiofrogs vs 300w on Elate 9”s).
I have no doubt, the morels were likely giving me a cleaner midbass representation. But I can’t deny that I’m getting better upfront midbass presence with these audiofrogs with half the power and a lot less effort on the install.
But you will pry my Morel hybrid 402s out of my cold, dead hands. Lol. I had the Morel Hybrid Intega point source 4” coax before - in the 4Runner dash locations. But I felt the cone area of the midrange was compromised by the tweet, along with power handling (two coils sharing a magnet/pole for heat dissipation). And obviously, the GX allows a true three-way stage as a stock location unlike the 4Runner (no factory tweet locations). So I went with the real deal 4”/1” hybrid component set. The tweeter alone is rated at 130WRMS. And with the 4 inch midrange having the full cone to radiate, and the powerful neodymium motor - allows so much potential for SPL and low distortion.
I love the Morel mid/tweet set up. It takes so much power (abuse!) and sounds so good. I definitely have some hearing loss, and I prefer a brighter sound. The soft-domes accept that compensatory treble-shelf very smoothly without breaking a sweat. Not even when I’m pushing it.
I’m sure the tempos are very nice in the doors, I had the tempo 6 1/2‘s in the rear doors of the 4Runner. They were certainly very nice drivers. But I’d never ask them to perform any serious midbass duties. Lol. Certainly excursion limited drivers. However, I’d be willing to bet the audiofrog GS690’s will knock your socks off as a dedicated midbass alternative. If I’m not mistaken, those Tempo’s are a two-way, but you’re using them as a midbass? I think the GS690 would be an instant improvement.
yep the temops are a component 2 way, its just hard to find a quality non-coax 6x9. They do have a very nice clean punch to them and they dont have any noticable distortion pushed passed linear x-max in my set up since i only run them up to 200hz, but its a very fine line to ride to break up. I'd like a bit more headroom in my midbass I will definately go with the frogs when I get time. I have the scanspeak silver 3.5's doing pretty much all the musical work, 200-3k. they turned out to be a spectacular little speaker. my thoughts on running that 3.5 so high is that it eases the load on the tweeter so i can run a smaller dome to reduce off axis roll off. running a pair of hertz c26s glued in there as a stop gap till i get a 3d printer to make a mount for a better 3/4 silk dome.
After reading through this thread a few times, I decided to take the plunge and replace all of the speakers with KICKER KS series units. Here's what I used:
1 x KICKER 47KSC6904 6x9" speakers (includes adapter brackets)
1 x KICKER 47KSC6704 6.75" speakers (includes adapter brackets)
1 x KICKER 47KSC404 4" speakers
1 x KICKER 47KSC3504 3.5" speakers (come as a pair, but only need 1)
1 x KICKER 46KST2504 1" tweeters
1 x Set of 4 knockoff Metra 72-8104 connectors from eBay for $10 (surprisingly good quality)
1 x RED WOLF pair of speaker adapters for 2018+ Camry door speakers (pins had to be switched in the connector to match polarity of the GX dash speakers)
1 x Dayton Audio DNR-2.0 2 ohm resistor for the center dash speaker
Most of the speakers I bought in open box condition, so the grand total for this complete speaker upgrade was $419.
KICKER adapter brackets work perfectly in the 6x9" location after breaking off a few of the extra pieces of plastic.
Here are the insides of the stock tweeter.
I had to file down the back side of the KICKER tweeter to make it flush so it can be mounted on the original tweeter bracket. I also had to use a larger screw to attach the KICKER tweeter.
I reused the original capacitor inline with the new tweeter (mainly because my tweeters did not come with the original crossovers).
I used Gorilla Glue to permanently attach the tweeter to the bracket.
Here's what it looks like mounted in the vehicle. I did not have any fitment issues with the A-pillar cover when reinstalling it.
The 4" speakers fit snugly in the right and left dash locations. RED WOLF adapters had to be modified to match polarity of the GX. (Thanks for the polarity chart provided earlier in this thread!)
I decided to use a 3.5" speaker in the center dash location and added a 2 ohm resistor inline, just to make sure that its impedance does not drop below 6 ohms (original speaker's impedance value). KICKER speakers have rather large magnets, so I am not sure if the 4" could fit in the center of the dash, considering how tightly the 3.5" fit. I also had to cut the slots in the mounting brackets to allow for installation.
Here is the 3.5" speaker mounted in the center. There is enough space to tuck away the resistor and crossover.
And finally here is the 6.75" speaker mounted in the rear door. KICKER brackets once again work well after breaking away the unnecessary pieces. There was a small issue with the long screws that mount the speaker to the adapter bracket, because they could not quite clear the circular opening in the door. A file or shorter speaker screws can resolve that. KICKER uses the same adapter bracket for 6.5" and 6.75" speakers, so I chose to go with the larger size, because they have better response at lower frequencies. Without a dedicated subwoofer, this system needs all the bass it can get from the door speakers.
Overall, I am very happy with the results as the stock speakers are simply terrible. I now hear highs and lows that the stock speakers could never reproduce well. Before, everything sounded muffled, as if I was listening to my music through a wall or something.
Thanks tecman and everyone else who contributed to this thread!
Likely going to try running a very similar setup in my 2023 non-ML GX460 since BestBuy has them on sale and will do the install for free.
Curious how the Kicker speaker upgrade has held up over time. Still happy with the setup?
Likely going to try running a very similar setup in my 2023 non-ML GX460 since BestBuy has them on sale and will do the install for free.
Curious how the Kicker speaker upgrade has held up over time. Still happy with the setup?
Yes, Kicker speakers are excellent and sound quality is much better than base audio, even with a stock amp. Personally, I would be a bit worried about Best Buy tearing apart my brand new truck for a free speaker install, though.
Yes, Kicker speakers are excellent and sound quality is much better than base audio, even with a stock amp. Personally, I would be a bit worried about Best Buy tearing apart my brand new truck for a free speaker install, though.
Haven't done this sort of thing before but might try installing the speakers myself this weekend and see how it goes.
How did you switch the polarity of the pins in the Red Wolf connector? I started taking the connector apart but can't figure out how to get the wires out to switch them.
Looking for some deeper sound out of my GX audio system. I don't have the Mark Levinson system in my car was interested in putting in some 6x9's and thoughts or personal experience with upgrading the door speakers. I'm looking at
You have a point re Best Buy tearing apart the truck. Ultimately I think it depends on the individual tech, but have to admit the one I spoke to didn't inspire a lot of confidence.
Haven't done this sort of thing before but might try installing the speakers myself this weekend and see how it goes.
How did you switch the polarity of the pins in the Red Wolf connector? I started taking the connector apart but can't figure out how to get the wires out to switch them.
It took some wiggling and prying with sharp objects. Can't say that I did it correctly, but they came out eventually. A terminal removal kit would have the right tools for it.
Had my Best Buy installation appointment yesterday and they swapped out all the factory speakers for Kicker KS series as inspired by lukashuk.
As far as I can tell they did a solid job. 100% improvement over the factory speakers in my 2023 Blackline. Solid bass, good clarity -- the sound is no longer muffled. I'd equate the factory speakers to listening to music being played outside of a music venue, while post speaker swap is like being inside.
Since someone else asked previously, the install tech could only fit a 3.5" Kicker speaker in the center dash. 4" speakers worked for the side dash speakers, but only a 3.5" would fit in the center dash. I also had the tech install an 2 ohm resistor with the center dash speaker as a precaution.
All in cost around ~$500 including installation which was covered under my Best Buy Total Tech membership. Highly recommended!
Pretty happy with the sound overall, but next I want to figure out how to get some bass going to the rear door speakers.
i got this too but it is bass only … i can hear bass only from door speakers any way to change it?
That's an issue with the factory crossovers, not the speaker. The Lexus factory system is super weird like that, with only low frequencies going to the 6x9s in the doors. Running a 3-way speaker there is a waste (but still may be a better option than factory because of the quality of the speaker).
So I think I’ve found the holy grail of stock speaker upgrades for the GX. I have not yet added the amp or sub, I’m taking my time trying to find just the right components.
Here is what I used (still powered by the OE amp):
Infinity Kappa 90csx for doors and tweeters (Here)
This combo sounds so good I’m debating whether or not I even need the 4 channel Audiocontrol D-4.800 I picked up! I was driving my buddy in the car the other day and he turns to me and goes “Wow that sub you put in sounds real good”. He was shocked when I told him the sub wasn’t even installed yet!
And the Kappa Perfect mid speakers are honestly incredible. I think if you only can replace one speaker in this system, replace the OE dash speakers with these Kappas. Such a major difference compared to the crappy PRV speakers I had installed in the post above.
Took this pic before I figured out a solution for the other bolt. But you get the idea.
Hello Interested in these setup, how is it holding up?
Looking to do a very similar speaker replacement with the same Focal speakers and a bit different center and corners. As the factory amp already sends only certain frequencies to each speaker, did you also wire the in-line Focal crossovers for the 6 x 9 and tweeters?
11-23-22 | 11:30 AM
