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My service history shows previous owner had brake fluid service done at 30K miles (Currently 61K) but unfortunately that isn't a complete fluid swap either.
Does the BA10 have a standard 1/4'' fitting so I can connect and air hose or it is different size? I typically do dry bleed, only use the adapter and a compressor.
Does the BA10 have a standard 1/4'' fitting so I can connect and air hose or it is different size? I typically do dry bleed, only use the adapter and a compressor.
I think so but not sure offhand. I'm heading out of town to my cabin until Tuesday night. If no one answers before I get back I'll chime in.
Maybe things have changed but every 30k seems a little excessive but not if it took you 10 years to rack up 30k. A time interval like every 5 years seems more sensible for modern brake fluid. If the fluid in your reservoir is darker than straw color it should probably be flushed and filled. It is indeed a very overlooked fluid maintenance item that is greatly overlooked.
Much older vehicles didn't seem to have this problem because you were more likely to replace calipers and master and slave cylinders requiring all fresh fluid or at least more bleeding in general to cycle out old fluid.
Does the BA10 have a standard 1/4'' fitting so I can connect and air hose or it is different size? I typically do dry bleed, only use the adapter and a compressor.
I can’t recall if the BA10 came with any fittings. Regardless I purchased my own quick disconnects with one way valve. This way I can interchange the Motive for different vehicles. Pictured here is one for my Toy/Lexus and the other adapter for my Porsche. Also the one way valve allows you to disconnect without losing air pressure. My preferred method is the dry method as well. The Motive stays clean and nothing to clean up after use.
Fedex showed up right before I left town today. That BA10 while not cheap is a quality cap. I assume aluminum. No regrets on purchase. I need to see if that same company makes a cap for another auto that Motive Products doesn't make a cap for.
I don't mind doing wet fluid changes. Some latex gloves and a little denatured alcohol for cleanup. For me... it makes for a quicker overall job since I can just move on to bleed the next bleed valve without doing anything. I will probably do this job in the next few weekends.
IMO: The electro-hydraulic master cylinder in GX probably benefits in more ways than just better braking performance with fluid changes. The firing of the solenoids during crawl control is a perfect example. This master cylinder type is one reason why a Toyota/Lexus can have crawl control. You cannot retrofit a Toyota/Lexus vehicle that has a crawl option in product line that does not have the electro-hydraulic booster. The vacuum boosted brakes don't support it. This would be a limiting factor in a Tacoma as both brake systems are present depending on trim.
So the brake fluid is the only maintenance item I have left...
I like the idea of using Techstream because @pmesfun writeup above makes it sound so easy.
Anyone know how to get Techstream... what do I need to buy or use? (I didn't see anything in this thread orthe maintenance/diagnostic sticky but could have missed it, thank you)
-Nate
Just got through changing my brake pads Saturday, and will be changing brake fluid in a few days. Is there any reason not to bleed the calipers in this order: RR, LR, RF, LF ?
It's my understanding that you start with the caliper farthest away, then work your way to the reservoir.
Thanks for any advice!
Tony
Last edited by tonyjh63; 08-10-20 at 02:58 AM.
Reason: Typo
I believe it to be a 4 channel system. Which means all 4 tires have brake lines which run directly from the master cylinder. In a common channel setup your order would make sense, however in a 4 channel system it really doesn't matter once you exchange the fluid in the tank and master cylinder. If you look at the image below you'll see the four ports (channels) on the left side of the master cylinder.
...Some vehicles require a very deliberate and bleeding procedure for the ABS...
With this being said--I have seen a procedure for doing something in TechStream to bleed a 470's ABS module--is there a write-up on doing this to a 460?