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I ordered crush washers for drain and check bolt (35178-30010), I just got it today from ebay. They are pretty small in diameter, like 12mm or 1/2 inch. Does this sound right to you guys? Thanks.
I ordered crush washers for drain and check bolt (35178-30010), I just got it today from ebay. They are pretty small in diameter, like 12mm or 1/2 inch. Does this sound right to you guys? Thanks.
I have seen multiple methods mentioned and I don’t see any harm personally with the method you mentioned but this is not what Aisin recommends. I can’t speak to why but it’s not necessary to get all the fluid out at the same time. You are not gaining anything. Some argue it can be more of a shock to the system to replace all the fluid at once. I think this is particularly true for older transmissions that were not regularly serviced. Maybe there are other reasons as well. More people have reported issues with full fluid exchanges and flushes vs slowly introducing new fluid. The drain and refill has been consistently the safest method.
A former Lexus master tech posted them on the LS430 forums I believe. Or it may have been the LS400 forum I don’t remember exactly. It’s been a while. Very intelligent man who helped many people with a common issue regarding leaking resister caps in the ecu’s. Unfortunately I think Toyota came after him and he stopped posting all of a sudden. I’ll see if I can find his post.
Here is a post referencing a bit what l was talking about in regards to “shocking” the system. This mainly applies to older vehicles that were not serviced regularly. Post number 3.
Thanks to whoever posted this video a while back - it got hidden somewhere within these 20 pages, but it's a perfect step-by-step video guide on how to do a complete ATF flush. I just finished it, and even though it's for a diesel 200-series, everything was identical, down to the hoses coming out of the transmission.
You will need a few things that may not be on hand to do a complete flush:
3 gallons of fluid - I spent a lot of time reading about the different theories on fluid, but Valvoline MaxLife Multi-vehicle ATF specifically lists Toyota WS fluid on the back - that was good enough for me. Plus I got all 3 gallons shipped to my house for $54. Local parts stores wanted $35 per gallon.
A fluid pump - a Motiv would work fine, but I didn't have that so I got this 12v fluid pump from eBay. It's actually really handy, I may use it for oil changes later on.
2 crush washers - part number 35178-30010, snagged from my local Toyota dealer
I wrote out all the steps ahead of time, just to be sure I had all the tools and understood the process. Figured I'd drop them here in case it helps anyone else - I've attached a picture of my setup as well:
Loosen the fill plug
Drain the fluid from the drain plug (14 mm) into the measuring cup
Replace the drain plug, reusing the washer
Pour in the same amount of new fluid into second container and empty the used fluid into a waste container
Remove the fill plug and insert output hose from pump, insert the input hose into the new fluid
On the same side of the transmission, find the two small rubber hoses coming out of the side and connecting to metal tubes. Disconnect the top hose from the oil cooler.
Run 10 mm rubber hose onto the metal line. Route the other end to the dirty measuring cup. Turn the engine on and let it run until it reaches 1.7 liters. Shut the engine off.
Refill the clean jug with the same amount of fluid you just removed.
Pump that fluid back into the fill hole
Repeat 2x.
Reconnect the rubber hose to the metal pipe.
Go for a short drive, moving through ALL the gears.
Drain the pan into the measuring cup. Tighten the drain plug to spec.
Pump in the same amount of fluid + half a liter or so. Tighten fill plug to spec (39 N-m or 29 ft-lbf).
When the fluid temp is between 103-114ºF (41-46 C), leave the car idling and remove the check plug with a 5 mm allen key. Allow fluid to flow out until it trickles. Replace the crush washer and torque (20 N-m or 15 ft-lbf).
This is similar to what I did on my Sienna and it was a breeze and super efficient way to complete the flush and plan to do on 460. One question/request I have is that can you point out the line you disconnected in step 10 above. Do you by chance have the picture of that. I am suspecting that it should not matter because its a closed loop. just disconnecting one line either top or bottom would work. Thanks in advanced.
I just deleted my post because the post above this answered most of my questions! I’m used to doing cooler line methods (tundra, Highlander, camaro) from the return line at the radiator. I wasn’t sure if that was the top or bottom on the GX460 but the above video uses the return right at the pan- nice.
Does ours have a thermostat you have to open up and hold with a paper clip? Mine has no auxiliary AT cooler.
Ok ****- need help. I dropped a rubber nipple into the fill port of the AT pan. I dropped the pad and don’t see a clear path to get to this area. I dropped the pan and the oil clearly takes a path to get to the filter area. I’m afraid I’ll need to really open this thing up or drop the transmission. Is there a way to access this without dropping the tansmission?
Thank you!! Im in less of a panic As that seems doable. Do you happen to have the assembly document? Not sure if I need gaskets/ torque etc. but your also sure I’ll be able to access this area? The fill hole is a little off kilter From this area.
AT Fluid level is highly dependent on temp. Opening that thermostat (this is what controls fluid circulating through stock AT cooler inside radiator) ensures that all fluid in the system is at roughly the same temperature for a more accurate fill while doing the temp & drain check.
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Originally Posted by william489
I don't have external AT cooler installed or tow package for my 2015 premium. does it still make sense to leave the thermostat pin in place in hotter summer time?
My undertanding is if you leave the pin in place, it opens up the path to/from AT cooler (vs poppet valves only opens up at around 190/200F normally).
Thanks.
Originally Posted by renau001
Excellent, easy-to-read step by step. 2 questions, why pin open the AT thermostatic switch?
Originally Posted by WRD4chano
affirmative
Is pinning thermostat the right way or wrong way?- it seems critical to get it right if I understand this flow diagram....
Is the right or left photo the result of pinning the thermostat? If this is ATF flow- doesn’t that mean one method is only recirculating and not exchanging the cooler fluid? Bottom two black hoses come to and from cooler. Middle thick white hoses are the radiator fluid used to heat the ATF. Top two metal tubes/hoses are to from AT.
Diagram is missing thermostat but shows to and from AT.
I've yet to find any FSM instructions (I have 5 different ones now) that don't mention the opening of thermostat during a fluid change. Unfortunately nothing in FSMs that say... "this is opened for these exact reasons" just lots of speculation including myself. I've seen the same speculation on the Tundra pages.
On a side note... if one was doing a fluid swap with a disconnected AT cooler line at front... the opened ATF warmer thermostat would be a requirement for flow to change fluid.
01-20-21 | 01:31 PM
