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Completed the Transmission oil flush today. How to pictures below. Drive your car up on 4 ramps so it remains level, it will be much easier.
Fairly simple procedure that gets the fluid completely new rather than multiple drain and fill.
1. Open the file hole - 24 mm small socket or 15/16 (use 6 pointer) and route a clear plastic tubing attached to a funnel . I routed it through front passenger tire and hung the tunnel on a wall.
2. Over fill the transmission with 2 qts of transmission oil. Not going into any debates here, but I used Genuine Toyota ATF WS. I just used a funnel and a tube, did not buy any pump. This will ensure the transmission level does not go low.
3. Disconnect the return line from transmission (see picture below) using curved needle nose pliers. I found the hose clamp towards engine side almost impossible to manipulate.
4. Connect clear tubing to the return line and route it to a dirty oil bucket.
5. Get an assistant who can tell you to stop the car after every 2 qts is drained out from a distance.
6.Start the car, cycle through gears and as soon as 2 qts are drained stop the car. Refill 2 qts as in step 2.
7. Repeat step 5 and step 6 for 5 to 6 times. I did this cycle for 12 qts (6 times). After cycling the oil, reconnect the return line and remove the paper clip from thermostat bypass.
8. Put the car in trans temp detection mode. I used a paper clip and shorted pin 4 and 13 (detailed procedure is stated in this thread in earlier posts). Basically , short the pins, start the car and cycle between D and N for about 6 seconds (if you don't do it faster it will not work, I was successful on the third try). Once in temp detection mode , remove the pin. Car will have the D turned off and it will be N (at least mine was in N).
9. Let the car idle until the D comes back on the dash (my car was still in N and D was showing on the dash). D mean the temp is within range.
10. I waited till the D blink and I immediately place car in Park and took a short break for temp to come back within range. Blinking D means the temp is above the range.
11. Open the level tube using an Allen drive wrench, and let the oil drain to a drizzle.
12. Install the level tube plug
13. Install the fill plug.
14. Drive vehicle off the ramps, don't forget to remove the ramps from rear tires.
15. Go on a drive and feel how smooth the car is shifting after the oil change.
ahmerx : Thanks for that... I haven't seen anyone do the disconnect method with hose underneath. They usually do it off the radiator. A good use of built in temp monitoring as well during the fluid swap.
ahmerx : Thanks for that... I haven't seen anyone do the disconnect method with hose underneath. They usually do it off the radiator. A good use of built in temp monitoring as well during the fluid swap.
When I did the flush on my Sienna, I used line at the radiator it was more accessible. On the GX it was a little challenging at the radiator, plus my clamps for transmission line at the radiator are somewhat rusted and I didnt wanted to go in a bind. The lines by transmission are very easy to access. Up next for me is to replace the darn radiator that is leaking at the top and I will do the waterpump, tensioner, and idler pully. I will write those up. Hopefully these will be my last maintenances/corrective work for a long while .
I called a local repair shop that specializes in Toyota and Lexus and Honda and they quoted me $235 to flush the transmission fluid on my 2016 GX460 and said it would replace all of the fluid. I have heard you aren't supposed to "flush". She also said it would be 16 quarts, which seems super high, but it is the receptionist answering the phone. Does this seem like it would be ok? I simply don't do my own car maintenance.
They have been in business for about 8 years, and have a 4.5 rating on Google with 85 reviews.
I called a local repair shop that specializes in Toyota and Lexus and Honda and they quoted me $235 to flush the transmission fluid on my 2016 GX460 and said it would replace all of the fluid. I have heard you aren't supposed to "flush". She also said it would be 16 quarts, which seems super high, but it is the receptionist answering the phone. Does this seem like it would be ok? I simply don't do my own car maintenance.
They have been in business for about 8 years, and have a 4.5 rating on Google with 85 reviews.
just ask their method and make sure it’s not a pressurized flushing machine. “Flush” is a term that gets used generally and not precisely. 16 qts is probably their estimate. I used over 15 in mine. $235 seems like a good price for 16 qts and the service. When you are replacing fluid from the cooler line you typically use a little extra to make sure you get all the old fluid out.
$235 is definitely cheap for a transmission flush, although I wouldn’t recommend doing one. A drain and fill has been enough for me and I’m at 140K miles. It replaces 5-6 qts at a time (according to dealership). I see the $125 every 30k miles as cheap insurance. I’m sure everyone has a different POV, this is just my two cents... good luck!
You’ll get several opinions on doing drain and fill vs the full change. Most do drain and fill bc it’s easier for DIY and are more comfortable doing it that way just more often. If someone is doing it for you, I see no advantages to doing drain a fills with this price. Doing the full replacement allows you to forget about it for 60-100k miles depending on your driving. I do not believe the old wives tale about “shocking your transmission” holds any credence with modern vehicles and certainly a robust transmission with a specific ATF like ours. It’s heavy gears not a person with feelings. Just tossing my opinion in the debate fire!
I would make sure they quoted you for Toyota fluid and not some 3rd party compatible fluid. While using something like Maxlife in some models is ok, in case of the GX (or MB, BMW) I always stick to the manufacture's fluid even if it is much more expensive. Toyota fluid comes out in the $10 range a quart so the $230 is a bit less than I would expect a shop to charge.
I do regular drain / fills on the AT since new and the pan seems to hold about 80-90 ounces of fluid.
$235 is definitely cheap for a transmission flush, although I wouldn’t recommend doing one. A drain and fill has been enough for me and I’m at 140K miles. It replaces 5-6 qts at a time (according to dealership). I see the $125 every 30k miles as cheap insurance. I’m sure everyone has a different POV, this is just my two cents... good luck!
What dealership do you go to? I can't even get my dealership to get past the "Sealed transmission" speech.
I am planning on some heavy towing this summer/fall. I am a little skeptical about changing out all of the fluid honestly. Thinking of possible just doing a drain and refill.
I am planning on some heavy towing this summer/fall. I am a little skeptical about changing out all of the fluid honestly. Thinking of possible just doing a drain and refill.
I had mine done at a shop right when I bought it. The guy was absolutely adamant not to do a power flush so he basically just did a bunch of drain and fills for me.
A couple thousand miles after the fluid was done I went and towed my 5500 lb trailer no more than 300 miles. My trans temps got to 245F+ so I went to check the fluid after and it was black. 5000 miles total on the fluid and it was straight up black. It was darker than the fluid that came out of my F150 Ecoboost at 85k miles with 10k miles of towing around Utah and Wyoming. That fluid was still fairly red.
So my though is:
1. Get a transmission cooler installed before you even tow.
2. Do the fluid before the tow if the truck had been worked before that.
02-26-21, 10:54 PM
Transmission flush DIY with pictures and details
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