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You won’t hear me advocate a flush… I had a TC failure on another vehicle with around 60k miles shortly afterward. Only drain and fill IMO. Fortunately covered by warranty…
Can I prove it was the flush? No…. Can you convince me to have a future AT flush? No
You won’t hear me advocate a flush… I had a TC failure on another vehicle with around 60k miles shortly afterward. Only drain and fill IMO. Fortunately covered by warranty…
Can I prove it was the flush? No…. Can you convince me to have a future AT sflush? No
Most shops won't even do a transmission flush on vehicles anymore. It was popular about 20 years ago until issues such as yours started popping up. I'm big on drain and fills and regular servicing with a new filter.
BTW, A little trick on drain and fills with sealed transmissions is to drain and refill by weight of the fluid. This is NOT the proper way. However it is an accurate and precise way to put the exact amount of fluid back in that was taken out.
Unbeknownst to me, the ATP filter is the ONLY filter on the market with a short neck. All other filters (Hengst, Vaico, etc) have the same longer neck with a baffle like the factory.
So I installed it, there is enough fluid in the pan for normal conditions but I am definitely worried about if I am on steep inclines etc. It could cause the filter inlet to lose suction and run the pump dry.
I should have just reinstalled the OEM filter and not used the new one. It was late and I wasnt thinking clearly. Oh well
Gonna call the dealer in the morning. I have to drive the GX from FL to NC on Saturday and did not want to drop the pan again!
I would honestly just recommend doing the pump-out method via the cooler return line. Saves so much time compared to dropping the pan, and no point replacing the factory filter. There is enough surface area to never really see a pressure drop. Maybe at 300k miles but it really is a waste of time to drop the pan before then.
Most shops won't even do a transmission flush on vehicles anymore. It was popular about 20 years ago until issues such as yours started popping up. I'm big on drain and fills and regular servicing with a new filter.
BTW, A little trick on drain and fills with sealed transmissions is to drain and refill by weight of the fluid. This is NOT the proper way. However it is an accurate and precise way to put the exact amount of fluid back in that was taken out.
If the oil taken out is same temp as the new oil, then by-volume works 100%.
If the trans is at-temp and the oil is room temp, by-volume is not exact match, but the diff really should not matter. There's the overfill tube plug to adjust the fill at-temp.
If the oil taken out is same temp as the new oil, then by-volume works 100%.
If the trans is at-temp and the oil is room temp, by-volume is not exact match, but the diff really should not matter. There's the overfill tube plug to adjust the fill at-temp.
Agree ... just use the overfill tube to adjust (drain excess) to the proper level ... better to drain a slight excess than to under fill.
I know some may disagree but I like the overfill tube at temp method. I've spent so much extra time on other vehicles getting AT fluid adjusted I find the Lexus/Toyota method far more convenient.
It allows me to not worry about overfill.. I've gone half quart over in the past
Agreed. I drain and filled one of mine at 47K and found metal particles in the fluid. Should have done it earlier. Manufacturers should leave the dipstick as they were to make the job easier.
And another drain-fill should follow this in a week or so. And probably another after another week or so. But it depends on how long you are planning to keep the GX.
Doing one Drain-Refill offers an insignificant amount of fluid refresh given the mix of the new fluid with the old ... IMHO best to do at least three (3) Drain-Refills at a time ... or do what NewB2Lexus suggests.
there are several ways to do the refill
1. refill the same amount same temperature fluid (used in this drain & refill, seems most lazy way).
2. refill and then drain from overflow plug while monitoring temperature using obd2 scan tool
3. refill and then drain from overflow plug while monitoring temperature using the jump wire method.
I would guess method 2 and 3 are equivalent. and method 2 seems easier since we can read the transmission temperature from a smart phone.
Looking to get this done as well .. did you do it yourself or at a shop ?
Wondering who would do a great job at this in the DFW area.. Called Davenport ( quoted $400 ) ..Sewell wouldn't even touch it!
I did it myself. Not hard. You would need a fluid pump to pump the new fluid in. Related videos on YouTube show what’s involved. Basically
1 jack up the GX on four corners to have more space under it.
2 remove the 14mm drain plug of transmission pan. Drain out about 2.5 QT
3 pump back 2.5 QT new fluid.
better jack up the GX the day before the work so that the transmission is fully cooled down to room temperature.
since the GX is jacked up it’s good time to replace transfer case fluid and differential fluid and to grease the six grease zerks.
My problem with the approach is, after a few times drain and fill, I start to wonder if the transmission fluid level is still correct, as each time I might have caused a small difference. I might take mine to a trusted mechanic to do another drain and fill and ensure fluid level is correct.
08-05-22, 05:28 PM
