Transmission fluid change
11-10-22, 05:54 PM
#541
My problem with the approach is, after a few times drain and fill, I start to wonder if the transmission fluid level is still correct, as each time I might have caused a small difference. I might take mine to a trusted mechanic to do another drain and fill and ensure fluid level is correct.
- buy a
- download OBD Fusion app
- Install Toyota/Scion specific add-on
Bam. Now you have capability to read trans temps and know for a fact it’s done properly, all for like $40.
Believe me, just because you bring it to a Lexus dealer doesn’t mean it’s done correctly. My local dealer overfilled the hell out of my LS430 trans a few years back— last time I ever had them do that one
The following 2 users liked this post by Peacebay:
NewB2Lexus (11-11-22),
william489 (11-11-22)
11-11-22, 07:20 AM
#542
Intermediate
My problem with the approach is, after a few times drain and fill, I start to wonder if the transmission fluid level is still correct, as each time I might have caused a small difference. I might take mine to a trusted mechanic to do another drain and fill and ensure fluid level is correct.
11-12-22, 05:53 AM
#543
Intermediate
It really is so easy and cheap to do yourself, even doing it the “right way”
Bam. Now you have capability to read trans temps and know for a fact it’s done properly, all for like $40.
Believe me, just because you bring it to a Lexus dealer doesn’t mean it’s done correctly. My local dealer overfilled the hell out of my LS430 trans a few years back— last time I ever had them do that one
- buy a $30 OBD2 Bluetooth scanner
- download OBD Fusion app
- Install Toyota/Scion specific add-on
Bam. Now you have capability to read trans temps and know for a fact it’s done properly, all for like $40.
Believe me, just because you bring it to a Lexus dealer doesn’t mean it’s done correctly. My local dealer overfilled the hell out of my LS430 trans a few years back— last time I ever had them do that one
11-12-22, 06:18 AM
#544
Pole Position
Just use a Laser (Infrared) Temp Gun to read the Transmission Pan temperature. Has other uses as well. Yes ... use graduated container to measure each Drain... and fill the same amount ... does not need to be accurate to the nth degree ... the goal is to get as close as possible, then overfill by 1/2 quart on the last drain-refill ... any excess can be purged using the level drain plug when the fluid is at operating temperature. This ensures a precise final fill.
Last edited by ASE; 11-12-22 at 06:27 AM.
11-12-22, 03:58 PM
#545
Super Moderator
I've found change method actually easier than in other vehicles with a dipstick. Throw in .5-.75 quart over drain, get extra fluid out on drain and then still accurate fill with OBD temp check and the "drain to a drizzle" via the check port. Don't be intimidated by process and I admittedly was before I did mine the first time. The process is well documented in thread.
The following 3 users liked this post by Acrad:
11-14-22, 02:12 PM
#546
I did a 4x drain fill on my 2014 over the weethed. I'm not a big fan of flushing and use the drain/fill method on my other vehicles.
it's a straight forward process and would advise to do the temp overflow check. it's easy, even with the jumper wire method.
things to note:
-get a few of the crush washers
- I used ravenol t-ws fluid. (3) 4L jugs was plenty do a 4 drain and fill with maybe a half qt or so left over. used a hand pump that screws to a qt bottle to refill.
- I had almost exactly 3 qts come out on each drain. I just approximated the first 3 refills, then did the temp/overflow method on the 4th.
- between drains I drove the vehicle 5 miles
- I had 55k miles on my GX, again 2014 model yr. fluid was discolored a bit. doubt it was bad, but definitely tell it had miles on it.
it's a straight forward process and would advise to do the temp overflow check. it's easy, even with the jumper wire method.
things to note:
-get a few of the crush washers
- I used ravenol t-ws fluid. (3) 4L jugs was plenty do a 4 drain and fill with maybe a half qt or so left over. used a hand pump that screws to a qt bottle to refill.
- I had almost exactly 3 qts come out on each drain. I just approximated the first 3 refills, then did the temp/overflow method on the 4th.
- between drains I drove the vehicle 5 miles
- I had 55k miles on my GX, again 2014 model yr. fluid was discolored a bit. doubt it was bad, but definitely tell it had miles on it.
Last edited by Zivman; 11-15-22 at 05:33 AM.
11-15-22, 04:47 AM
#547
i just did the first drain and fill at 83k miles on the GX that was jacked up the night before. garage temperature about 65 F.
drained out 2.5 QT.
drained out 2.5 QT.
11-26-22, 04:25 PM
#548
01-15-23, 11:53 AM
#549
Last one was at 118k or so, now I'm at 140k. I wanted to do one since I did the transmission cooler install and I didn't add any fluid when I did it. Will make it a priority to do one more next week as I have three quarts of fluid left.
I noticed some slight seepage at a few of the bolts from when I did the pan gasket, also at 118k. I checked torque on them and sprayed them off. Will keep an eye out but there hasn't been any drips and it's so very slight.
03-19-23, 09:50 AM
#551
Super Moderator
@pb360 It is preventative maintenance for me. IMO... if there isn't anything currently wrong with your transmission a simple ~4 quart drain and fill shouldn't hurt anything.
Lots of debate about drain and fills, flushes, change filter, or leave it alone. Just my $.02 and do not claim to be a transmission expert either. :-)
Lots of debate about drain and fills, flushes, change filter, or leave it alone. Just my $.02 and do not claim to be a transmission expert either. :-)
03-19-23, 01:02 PM
#552
The ATF WS fluid drain and fill is so easy to do on Toyota / Lexus cars that I can’t imagine that someone wouldn’t want to do it. I don’t have a Lexus GX but have done it on a 2018 Toyota Sienna three times (27,856 miles, 29,311 miles, and 53,495 miles) and a 2005 Lexus LS430 once (45,191 miles). I did the Toyota Sienna ATF WS fluid drain and fill today.
The caveat is that the right tools are necessary.
- ScanGauge (for monitoring ATF Temp)
- Crush Washers for ATF Fill bolt and ATF drain bolt
- Hex Sockets (6 mm and 10 mm…for Sienna). I think the LS430 doesn’t require a Hex Socket
- Torque Wrench for correct 15 foot pound for Drain bolt and 29 foot pounds for ATF fill bolt
- A 24 mm socket. I would say that a SIX point socket is 100 percent recommendation versus one of those 12 point socket. I say this because the first time i tried to do the job in 2021, I used a 12 point socket and it rounded the ATF fill socket. It took awhile and multiple attempts on different days to get the fill bolt off. It’s imperative that the ATF fill bolt be removed first before draining. I also prefer the 3/8 inch socket versus he 1/2 inch socket because the 24 mm socket is narrower and less deep (for the LS430).
- A fluid pump To fill the ATF
- A metal tool to place in the ATF fill port so that the fluid pump hose doesn’t get dislodge. This part is not 100 percent necessary but it just makes the job easier so that you don’t have to hold the hose in the fill port and that the hose doesn’t fall out and ATF fluid gets everywhere.
- The Correct amount of ATF WS fluid. Sienna requires about 3.5 to 4 quarts and the LS430 requires 2.5 to 3.0 quarts. Your GX may require more closer to 4.0.
- A collection bucket to know approximately how much fluid drained. I use an old Lysol 16.7 container x2 to collect the old fluid so I know approximately how much came out.
I would say that the LS430 was a little more challenging than the Toyota Sienna because the ATF fill bolt is in a narrow space that didn’t allow me to use a 24 mm SIX point socket meant to fit a 1/2 inch driver. The hobby shop that I went to had loaner tools and a 24 mm socket (1/2 inch) that was 12 point. I ended up stripping that ATF fill bolt. I had a tough time finding a 24 mm SIX point socket that was narrow enough to fit into the LS430 area to remove it successfully before tackling the job successfully. I ended up buying a lot of tools to find a SIX point 24 mm socket that fit into that space for the LS430.
I have access to a four point lift (or drive on lift)… so having this access to this lift makes it a little easier too.
Having the ScanGauge is also useful. I ALWAYS use the Scan Gauge in normal driving so I always I can visualize what the Engine coolant temp and the ATF temperature is. So getting to the optimal 104 to 113 degrees for the ATF fluid check isn’t that hard.
People who use the ScanGauge in normal driving will know that Engine coolant temperatures usually run around 188 to 198 degrees.
ATF temps typically run around 150-180 degrees when warmed up in non vigorous driving. However, with stop and go driving and more vigorous driving (going faster), the ATF temps can reach 190 to 220 degrees).
The caveat is that the right tools are necessary.
- ScanGauge (for monitoring ATF Temp)
- Crush Washers for ATF Fill bolt and ATF drain bolt
- Hex Sockets (6 mm and 10 mm…for Sienna). I think the LS430 doesn’t require a Hex Socket
- Torque Wrench for correct 15 foot pound for Drain bolt and 29 foot pounds for ATF fill bolt
- A 24 mm socket. I would say that a SIX point socket is 100 percent recommendation versus one of those 12 point socket. I say this because the first time i tried to do the job in 2021, I used a 12 point socket and it rounded the ATF fill socket. It took awhile and multiple attempts on different days to get the fill bolt off. It’s imperative that the ATF fill bolt be removed first before draining. I also prefer the 3/8 inch socket versus he 1/2 inch socket because the 24 mm socket is narrower and less deep (for the LS430).
- A fluid pump To fill the ATF
- A metal tool to place in the ATF fill port so that the fluid pump hose doesn’t get dislodge. This part is not 100 percent necessary but it just makes the job easier so that you don’t have to hold the hose in the fill port and that the hose doesn’t fall out and ATF fluid gets everywhere.
- The Correct amount of ATF WS fluid. Sienna requires about 3.5 to 4 quarts and the LS430 requires 2.5 to 3.0 quarts. Your GX may require more closer to 4.0.
- A collection bucket to know approximately how much fluid drained. I use an old Lysol 16.7 container x2 to collect the old fluid so I know approximately how much came out.
I would say that the LS430 was a little more challenging than the Toyota Sienna because the ATF fill bolt is in a narrow space that didn’t allow me to use a 24 mm SIX point socket meant to fit a 1/2 inch driver. The hobby shop that I went to had loaner tools and a 24 mm socket (1/2 inch) that was 12 point. I ended up stripping that ATF fill bolt. I had a tough time finding a 24 mm SIX point socket that was narrow enough to fit into the LS430 area to remove it successfully before tackling the job successfully. I ended up buying a lot of tools to find a SIX point 24 mm socket that fit into that space for the LS430.
I have access to a four point lift (or drive on lift)… so having this access to this lift makes it a little easier too.
Having the ScanGauge is also useful. I ALWAYS use the Scan Gauge in normal driving so I always I can visualize what the Engine coolant temp and the ATF temperature is. So getting to the optimal 104 to 113 degrees for the ATF fluid check isn’t that hard.
People who use the ScanGauge in normal driving will know that Engine coolant temperatures usually run around 188 to 198 degrees.
ATF temps typically run around 150-180 degrees when warmed up in non vigorous driving. However, with stop and go driving and more vigorous driving (going faster), the ATF temps can reach 190 to 220 degrees).
03-20-23, 07:35 AM
#553
Intermediate
If you don't want to keep the GX around, don't change the fluid. I would absolutely do a complete flush if it was never changed at 147k.
03-20-23, 08:22 AM
#554
It's almost comical the number of ideas that people drag along from years past. Forums and the internet in general make a great sounding board for people to repeat info. they have no personal experience or knowledge with.
- How many people have, themselves, had a transmission failure caused by a fluid change or flush?
- How many people have had a drain plug on a differential or transfer case not come loose? "always open the fill plug first to make sure you can fill after draining...."
- "always open and close the hood five times before replacing a headlight bulb because the latch may stick....."
There is no reason to hold off on a transmission fluid drain/fill or flush. Just do it if you think it's beneficial and your concerned about it.
- How many people have, themselves, had a transmission failure caused by a fluid change or flush?
- How many people have had a drain plug on a differential or transfer case not come loose? "always open the fill plug first to make sure you can fill after draining...."
- "always open and close the hood five times before replacing a headlight bulb because the latch may stick....."
There is no reason to hold off on a transmission fluid drain/fill or flush. Just do it if you think it's beneficial and your concerned about it.
The following 2 users liked this post by 308guru:
cancruiser (09-21-23),
jphowey (03-27-23)
03-22-23, 03:33 PM
#555
I did a drain & fill on my 2012 (110k miles) the other day using Toyota WS fluid. I drained cold fluid (3qts) and pumped 3.5qts of cold fluid back in. I performed the fluid check procedure using a jumper in the OBD port. Once the Drive light came back on solid, I drained the overflow to a trickle. I backed out of the garage ~100' to the road, then put it in Drive to go back into the garage. The truck revved, but did not accelerate normally. I felt like it was slipping. I cycled through the gears and tried again to no avail. Pulled it back in the garage, shut it off and waited a half hour or so. When I tried to pull out of the garage, the truck would would not move in Reverse. No codes. I did this as preventative maintenance as well all do. My truck was shifting perfectly fine prior. I'm at a loss.