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I normally use Amsoil in most things but for the transfer case I used the golden fluid and plan to use Toyota WS for my AT. I already have a case of it for the job a couple weekends out. Just gonna do a 3-4 quart drain and refill. I don't like to mix fluids and if I was doing one of those drain and refills out of the AT cooler line in front then I would possibly consider an alternate AT formula.
i wanted you to convince me to do nothing, I have 74k miles so I at least will wait until 100k thinking the Toyota/Lexus engineers at least mean 100k if not lifetime.
I'm in the same boat. It feels like it should be changed, but I am going to trust them.
My dealer just told me the same thing (74k) when it went in for the airbag.....
I'm probably going to run my fluid until I get rid of the vehicle.
#1 there's the cost issue, #2 it's a toyota, it could probably run on olive oil, and #3 cracking open the transmission is just one more opportunity for something to get messed up.
Looking at the pic of the pan, and assuming your transmission still had the factory fill in it, would it not be as simple as draining the pan, measuring what came out, and putting that much new fluid back in?
I've done that on my wife's old Mazda 6 (which also had a "sealed transmission" every 30K since she bought it, with 3x's change (as @cancruiiser described) at about the 90K mark. Has worked fine with that car, and the fluid level has always been correct afterwards (the Mazda 6 has a hidden dipstick that I only found after a Mazda Tech in New Zealand told me where to look).
I'd do that if I knew factory fill was actually at full mark. The only way to know for certain is go through this process above.
Another brand but ...I've seen in my CX-5 that factory fill on various areas was low. Owner above with fluid condition picture numerous posts above reported that he put back in more than drained to bring up to factory full.
If you have a '14+ model you can always check the ATF Thermal Degradation number. This isn't available on 10-13 models. It can also be viewed on OBD Fusion phone app. I saw someone on Tundra forum who regularly towed a large trailer and they were hitting over 65K on this thermal estimate after 20-30K miles. More than likely fine at 100K miles if you aren't towing.
I need to run a test this weekend and see what this active test does during fluid check. Apparently some special idle condition that vehicle can go into beyond turning off all the accessories and AC. This might be one of those procedures where my 2.04 firmware TS cable is needed for live data.
I'm probably going to run my fluid until I get rid of the vehicle.
#1 there's the cost issue, #2 it's a toyota, it could probably run on olive oil, and #3 cracking open the transmission is just one more opportunity for something to get messed up.
so am I reading correctly that this "OBD Fusion" app on my iphone will allow me hook up and run diagnostics on the GX without having to actually have an OBD tool?
Edit. Looks like I have to order a diagnostic tool to work with the app. Anyone have one that will work on older vehicles AND work with the iphone? I am tech illiterate. I prefer gears to circuits.
Correct. You will want to purchase the model year specific add-on to OBD Fusion. This gets you access to all the modules in vehicle. Anything outside of engine or emissions won't trigger a CEL so this can help you troubleshoot. Aside from OBD Fusion you just need to pick a Bluetooth or Wifi OBD dongle to connect to. This makes for a nice portable Techstream. You can even check your tire pressure with it ...as it will display the PSI and Tire temps.
Unlike some of the other Toyota models I have seen...on the 460 there is a separate check valve to the drain valve on the bottom of the AT pan. The tube on that separate check valve is at the maximum capacity that fluid should be in the drain pan and keeps fluid in the pan.
I only intend to refill until it just starts coming out of that overflow plug.
Overflow valve depth into pan is near the star
Basically what FSM says
I agree and am aware of the overflow drain that I think you've called a check valve. In your directions after you've filled the transmission with new fluid and are running the engine, determine the temperature and open the overflow drain and have determined the correct fluid level you say to turn the engine off then open the overflow drain and replace the crush washer. My point was that all the ATF suspended in the transmission with the engine running will raise the pan level above the overflow drain when you turn the engine off and if you pull the overflow plug to put on a new washer you will lose fluid that should remain there.
I'm probably going to run my fluid until I get rid of the vehicle.
#1 there's the cost issue, #2 it's a toyota, it could probably run on olive oil, and #3 cracking open the transmission is just one more opportunity for something to get messed up.
True also depends how old your car is. What happens is, as the clutches, bands, etc. all wear they deposit a lot of material into the fluid. The longer you leave the fluid in, the more the trans wears internally and what you end up with is fluid that has, in suspension, a lot of metal particulate. This actually ends up acting as a friction device, within the fluid, and the trans keeps running fine (or at least "ok") like this. However if you then drain/flush the fluid after "waiting too long" you end up removing all that is suspended in the fluid. Then you put in new fluid that doesn't have any of the suspended particles and thus has little to no friction properties. Then things start to slip, then it can't be fixed until you overhaul/rebuild the whole gearbox.
Changing the fluid on a 2013 (you didn't say how many miles or when you changed it) is fine and appropriate. It's when you wait like 10+ years and have hundreds of thousands of kms on there and then think it's a good idea to change it--that's when you've "waited too long".
True also depends how old your car is. What happens is, as the clutches, bands, etc. all wear they deposit a lot of material into the fluid. The longer you leave the fluid in, the more the trans wears internally and what you end up with is fluid that has, in suspension, a lot of metal particulate. This actually ends up acting as a friction device, within the fluid, and the trans keeps running fine (or at least "ok") like this. However if you then drain/flush the fluid after "waiting too long" you end up removing all that is suspended in the fluid. Then you put in new fluid that doesn't have any of the suspended particles and thus has little to no friction properties. Then things start to slip, then it can't be fixed until you overhaul/rebuild the whole gearbox.
Changing the fluid on a 2013 (you didn't say how many miles or when you changed it) is fine and appropriate. It's when you wait like 10+ years and have hundreds of thousands of kms on there and then think it's a good idea to change it--that's when you've "waited too long".
Good explanation. It reminds me of a conversation I had years ago with a mechanic who said essentially if you wait too long (replacing fluid on a car that required a fluid change), it might be best to just keep it sealed up and let it alone, as changing the fluid late could risk a lot of slip.
I wonder though if most Toyota/Aisin transmissions get the same level of particulate buildup as other brands. Really I don't ever expect the truck to have transmission issues in its lifetime. Again, Toyota is known for great transmissions, the GX is not known for any transmission issues or common problems, these things are literally Toyota Landcruisers near the top of the food chain. The biggest markets for the LC Prado are far harsher environments than my morning and evening commute. The fact that Toyota themselves call it a lifetime fluid is really all I need to hear. In my wife's MDX, the thing calls for AT fluid and diff fluid changes something like every 30,000 miles.
To be quite honest, when my GX gets to the point where it has transmission problems, I will have long moved on from the vehicle altogether. Assuming it doesn't get wrecked, IMO changing my transmission fluid would just be to help out whatever 3rd-world owner it finds its way to circa year 2035.
03-12-19, 09:37 PM
