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I'm curious myself about engagement times. In addition it sounds like you have to be far more careful with aftermarket elockers than air for at-speed activation. Elocker seems like you have to be basically stopped or only a 1-3MPH or you can cause damage. There aren't the ECU lockouts like OEM that would prevent errant activation.
This being said I am going to install another switch that will be require activation to turn the system on.
I realize I wouldn't do it but if spouse or another driver turned on the single switch looking for something at speed that would not make for a good day.
Just a reference picture (not mine) but may put the other switch in my remaining used blank and the 100 switch somewhere in the other area. There is only so much area you can actually mount something there that doesn't have metal framing behind it.
Challenge as there is a curve there and ensuring the switch can sit mostly flush.
They are Yukon Gear with bearings made in Japan by KOYO but showed up like this.
I now need to inspect for bearing damage... there are a couple very small scratches on interior of carrier race that I can slightly tag with a fingernail. I don't have enough experience with bearings to know what is good or not.
Yukon main office is only 15 minutes away from me but I ordered though ECGS. A shamble of parts doesn't give me confidence.
This is some great info. Having just bought a 2021 GX, I’m very interested in locker installs. I don’t plan on taking the GX places I take my Rubicon, but having the locker is always nice.
I had linked John00 's budget crawl thread elsewhere the other day and it got me thinking about using the same panel as his crawl switch mod for my OEM switch. My concern about accidental activation is a few posts above. I'm fine with two switches to activate.
I think I will put the my 100 series rear locker switch in this panel if it will fit.
Easily replaceable if one wanted to revert...or far cheaper if I mess something up, need to replace panel, and relocate.
I have another 3rd party switch that will snap in like OEM to the unused space (used for 400W inverter switch other markets outside of US) to the left of the steering wheel.
I plan to lay the entire harness out with a 12V source and ensure the locker functions properly before I take in for installation.
The 5th gen 4Runner locking rear axle will fit the GX460, which is what a lot of guys do(just swap in the whole axle). I cannot remember if the gears need to be swapped though.
That is certainly a route one can take but most 8.2 are being bought up fairly quickly. I feel like I have a solid open 8.2 so adding this onto a known good gives me a little bit of confidence.
Here is an example needing some work that is more than what I paid for the Harrop. It would also need to be re-geared to even remain stock. If one got a steal of a deal on a used 8.2 definitely a road to travel though.
That is certainly a route one can take but most 8.2 are being bought up fairly quickly. I feel like I have a solid open 8.2 so adding this onto a known good gives me a little bit of confidence.
Here is an example needing some work that is more than what I paid for the Harrop. It would also need to be re-geared to even remain stock. If one got a steal of a deal on a used 8.2 definitely a road to travel though.
i guess the pic didnt show. its about 1.75 inches long
heres the text
Input a voltage compared with the reference voltage (reference voltage through precision multi-turn potentiometer partial pressure get), the input voltage is less than the reference voltage, the relay pulls, the circuit is connected, at the same time the work of the corresponding channel indicator light
so the switch only gets power when the analog signal is below the threshold you select
This last month had some additional challenges getting up the last leg hill to my cabin which had about 2 feet of packed snow but during my ascent was 40 and top layer slushy. Frozen it was fine and easy to get up with my snow tires but wasn't quite good enough to get up the hill with all different electronic aids and didn't want to risk getting stuck just before dark. I also didn't feel like putting the chains on so walked in and got my tracked quad to pack stuff in and then waited until it got cold overnight and then painlessly brought vehicle up next morning when all was frozen. I'm thinking that a little bit more physical traction in rear could've helped or just overkill for very rare scenarios and where vehicle is normally at. No risk of going off a cliff on this hill. More aggressive off-road AT type traction tires would have probably helped but then those don't perform as well on ice or frozen surfaces which is what I am more concerned with the braking in the winter and hill descents.
I figure might be another nice option if I get it in deep mud (not likely) or sand (more likely) and also add some additional braking options that don't overwork the brakes on steep descents.
I guess just trying to add one more blade to the Swiss army knife. It does give me a little pause opening up a perfectly functional and running rear diff with no leaks, weeps or seeps. I guess I could find lots of reasons to justify the purchase in my mind anyway :-)
I realize I am creating another failure point.
Airing down is huge. I was running 8 PSI in the tires of my 4Runner this winter when I went out snow wheeling. The difference between 8 psi and even 20 psi was the difference between getting buried and getting through in a lot of cases. A couple of times I got lazy and didn't air down ahead of time and usually regretted it.
Also, traction boards. Saved my butt a couple of times. The work really well in snow and only cost $275 for a good set. I had a set of the Smittybilt ones and they work, but they snapped the first time I used them. I have continued to use them but a little more will snap off each time so eventually there will be nothing left. I ended up buying a set of Actiontrax and those are significantly more flexible and shouldn't break in the cold
I probably should have tried airing down.. I had chains but didn't feel like putting them on at the time. I do have traction boards but was admittedly feeling lazy and just wanted to get through. :-)
I end up mounting the 100 series rear locker switch here. I am also going to utilize the upper blank using the included switch (two switch setup to prevent accidental activation)
Need to start working on wiring...I am going to try internally. and go down through one of the rubber plugs in cargo area to get to the rear diff electrical connections. This general area where switch is mounted doesn't have any metal bracing behind it. I couldn't make it work next the existing CDL switch. The 100 series switch was too long and would contact one of the metal brackets in dash.
My dual switch setup is complete. Just need to run the harness piece that extends the length of vehicle back to the rear diff and schedule an appointment for hardware install. Really basic electrical on this system. Keyed power off one of the unused fuses under dash.
Power goes into the lighted switch before the rotary switch. Just trying to be safe about accidental "engagement". I decided to pass on the included switch as it was plug an play on the dash so just used one of the CH4x4 switches.
I've taken forever on the wiring but ran the final run this morning from front to back along the upper left frame rail and far away from exhaust. The cabling that came with it was already shielded pretty well but I added a full run of 1/2" wire loom over the entire run just in case.
Left things just slightly loose so I can take whatever slack and extra harness out of the run once finally terminated on the rear diff. I also need to put a permanent termination on the main positive relay connection on the battery.
I want to ensure there is enough wire for install in rear as well as any extreme suspension flex but being at the center that probably is irrelevant. I ran from body down to diff in middle.
Rear connector is temporarily sealed off and zipped tied off in area above and to the left of the rear diff.
While I am taking to a dedicated diff shop not sure they have installed this specific application so I am going to print out "all" of the documentation and put in a binder for them... "just in case" they have any questions. I'll probably reach out after the end of the month and attempt to schedule something.
I like that system itself is so simple... no ECUs involved and very simple electrical circuit to troubleshoot and are apparently easily rebuildable if needed as well.
04-07-21, 01:43 PM
