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I found it! It is located behind the passenger headlight under the black cover. Super easy to get to and remove. I took it apart, cleaned it, conneceted to battery and it works like a charm. Checked the control driver and it was fine. Last place I looked, which should of been first, was the fuse box, 50a to air pump was blown! Just ordered from Toyota. I'm 99% sure this is the entire problem. $15 is a hell of a lot better than $4,000! My GX is out of warranty because of mileage, otherwise I'd have a few days left. Oh and the fuse blew due to battery issues so it shouldn't reoccur. Also, I am almost positive the pump is the A-1 Cardone 33-2504M which is $176 on Amazon (I'm sure the harness would need to be swapped out). I guess I can come away this time happy that I now have the bypass installed and don't need to worry about it down the road.
Just got the dreaded p2440 code which is the secondary air injection valve failure. Not only do you get several lights on the dash, you also get limp mode with this code.
My GX is a 2011 with 46k, and even though several Toyota vehicles have had their warranty extended to 10yr 150k for this very system, Lexus has done no such thing.
The dealer was very familiar with this issue and knew it wasn't covered under any existing warranty. He said it's "around $2000" to fix because one of the valves is still under the intake manifold.
Even though I hate to "RIG" my GX, I ordered the bypass module from EBAY. It blocks the system off and tricks the ecu into thinking all is well.
For those not familiar, this system runs on cold starts for 30 seconds or so to help warm up the cats, it has no other function.
i am not familiar with that code. Why couldnt you just put in a new Vacuum Switching Valve and or air switching valve? Everything is just connected by bolts.
also, that should be covered under 4 year bumper to bumper warranty. I would argue with them that its not a normal maintainence issue that has gone out here
i am not familiar with that code. Why couldnt you just put in a new Vacuum Switching Valve and or air switching valve? Everything is just connected by bolts.
also, that should be covered under 4 year bumper to bumper warranty. I would argue with them that its not a normal maintainence issue that has gone out here
The truck has been in service longer than 4 years. True, the intake manifold is connected by bolts, but it's a rather large job-not to mention the ridiculously priced parts.
What was the final outcome? I would request that this issue should be covered by the initial warranty.
You could request it all you want, and I did, but I just got blank stares. I even reminded them that Toyota has extended the warranty on other vehicles with the exact same parts. They don't care.
I was incorrect in that the valves are not located under the intake manifold like they are on the GX470. I sourced the parts online for around $350 and will swap them out myself. However, there is no guarantee they won't malfunction again-just as they have on Toyota Tundra's. Once again, when they malfunction you are in limp-mode. If you haven't experienced this issue, consider yourself lucky.
Bottom line, I no longer trust this vehicle enough to take a long road-trip in and would dump it in a second after only 5 months of ownership.
You could request it all you want, and I did, but I just got blank stares. I even reminded them that Toyota has extended the warranty on other vehicles with the exact same parts. They don't care.
I was incorrect in that the valves are not located under the intake manifold like they are on the GX470. I sourced the parts online for around $350 and will swap them out myself. However, there is no guarantee they won't malfunction again-just as they have on Toyota Tundra's. Once again, when they malfunction you are in limp-mode. If you haven't experienced this issue, consider yourself lucky.
Bottom line, I no longer trust this vehicle enough to take a long road-trip in and would dump it in a second after only 5 months of ownership.
The parts you listed are the ones I ordered. The dealer automatically changes both valves and the pump whenever there is a malfunction. The service adviser said once the valves stick open the heat melts all the parts. I don't believe this is the case. The "limp mode" keeps this from happening.
Why would the parts malfunction again so soon? I don't know, but they are malfunctioning on Tudra's within a few thousand miles of driving off the lot.
I have the old valves off and when I get time will try to tear them apart and see if there is a way to clean the old ones.
I tried an ebay bypass module, not the one you listed but a "plug-n-play" unit. It would keep the codes at bay for two days, but they always returned.
The parts you listed are the ones I ordered. The dealer automatically changes both valves and the pump whenever there is a malfunction. The service adviser said once the valves stick open the heat melts all the parts. I don't believe this is the case. The "limp mode" keeps this from happening.
Why would the parts malfunction again so soon? I don't know, but they are malfunctioning on Tudra's within a few thousand miles of driving off the lot.
I have the old valves off and when I get time will try to tear them apart and see if there is a way to clean the old ones.
I tried an ebay bypass module, not the one you listed but a "plug-n-play" unit. It would keep the codes at bay for two days, but they always returned.
Switched the valves out and all is well on my GX. These shouldn't be malfunctioning with so few miles, but I'm VERY happy Toyota/Lexus moved them from under the intake. Also, it appears you can change just the inside portion/guts of the part and leave the cast aluminum housing bolted to the valve cover and exhaust tube . This method would make this a 30 min job.
Thanks for keeping this thread updated with progress/results. If you took any pictures of the process or detailed your procedure, it would be good to have it here for future reference.
I did not take any pics but I should have. The valves really are right out in the open and plain to see once you remove the engine cover. I also removed the air intake for more room but it probably wasn't necessary.
I hope nobody else has the issue and mine was just a fluke.
I did not take any pics but I should have. The valves really are right out in the open and plain to see once you remove the engine cover. I also removed the air intake for more room but it probably wasn't necessary.
I hope nobody else has the issue and mine was just a fluke.
Thanks for the information, sorry you had to deal with this, and I too hope it was just a fluke. It concerns me as it is my wife's vehicle, and I had no idea this was an issue. At 50K we have never had any problems with our 2010.
06-12-15, 09:41 AM
