sivert55

I completely agree. The Lexus dealer in Clearwater was going to bill Lexus Corp $3700 for the repair. Because I got pre-authorization from Lexus customer service to have Toyota do it and get a reimbursement check, my total cost was $1830.89 after tax.
The preauth process was straightforward. I had to submit my registration and evidence from the mechanic's diagnostic tool to show the error codes. They sent documented approval for the work to be done and reimbursed. Then, to get reimbursed, I just had to submit an itemized work order and proof of payment. They send a paper check via Certified Mail in 7-10 business days.

Lexus customer service was good. They always answered emails the same day. And they even offered to send a flatbed truck to tow my vehicle to the nearest dealership, which I declined because it's an hour away. Although, had i gone the dealer route, i wouldn't have had to come out of pocket for the repair and they may have offered me a loaner rx350 for the 3 days it took to finish.

Parts:
TO17610-0C040 PUMP ASSY, AIR
TO04006-37138 AIR SWITCHING KIT
Total for parts: $1182.94 (NOTE: my original estimate of $1100.00 total job cost went up because the dealership hadn't diagnosed a bad pump yet when they gave me that estimate. The new price reflects the addition of the pump replacement.)
Labor cost: $494.19

That second part number is in bold because I found it interesting that the valves are being sold in a L/R pair. I looked that part up on a few Lexus part sites and they were going new for ~$350.

sivert55

I agree. If this happens after 10yr/150k, I will go the bypass route. There's no emissions inspections in my state, so it won't make any difference to me. There's no information available that i could find to indicate whether they'd changed the rubber material in the valves or not. So it may reoccur.

Acrad

We do have emission tests here but anything '09 and newer doesn't need to be tested and after 2020 they are discontinuing all emission testing statewide.

sivert55

My car had been fine until today. I went out to lunch, parked it for an hour, and came back. When i turned it on: BAM! Exact same error lights. Blinking 4LO, TRAC OFF, engine service light solid on. Difference: no limp-home mode this time. Engine had full power.

I pull out my OBD2 reader and run Torque (Lite). The pending codes are P106b and P2437. There are no details for P106B, but there are for P2437: "Air flow / Pressure sensor circuit low bank 2". That's a pressure detection fault in the passenger side air switching valve that they just replaced. I popped the hood to make sure hoses hadn't come loose and that the parts were indeed new. They appeared to be, but i didn't break out my torx and open up the passenger side one. i just took it back to the dealership. they warranty their repair work, so we'll see.

Apparently just one bad air switching valve won't put the vehicle into limp-home mode. I didn't know that.

I called they Hewitt Tech guy and he said he's seen this code combo before, as a precursor to the valve failure. It's indicative of a failed/stuck valve that's allowing the pressure sensor, which is built-in to the valve body, to be damaged. When i told him the valve had just been replaced, he said probably bad part or wiring fault. Also, slim chance the ECU was affected by the previous air valve/pump failures (high voltage, I think he said he'd only seen that happen twice). He emailed me info on the bypass parts in case i want to just throw my hands up and give up on the whole darned system.

More updates to follow.

Side note: the P106B indicates a difference between 3 pressure sensors: one in the charcoal evap canister unit in the gas tank, and one in each of the air switching valves. They allow for slightly different readings, but if they are too far off, it will throw that code. That pressure check runs 50-55 minutes after the car is turned off. The error doesn't mean the evap system is leaking or needs replacing (expensive fix). It just means they're not all reading the same ambient pressure, which indicates one of the 3 is bad.

Acrad

I'm almost tempted to purchase and shelve a bypass unit just to guarantee I have a long term fix.

CrownINC

I just went through this, it is a common problem. So common now that Lexus contacted me via letter to tell me that they have extended the manufactures warranty to fix the problem!

Go to you nearest Dealer and they should fix it. If not, to fix will cost around $3k.

tecman

Welcome to CL :-)

Was the experience good with your Lexus dealer CrownINC?

Octavious

As a brand new used GX owner this whole thread is freaking me out, but I live in a state that does not have emissions testing. Is there a block off option? Or removal completely option? My GX is a 2011 with 69k miles. I see the Hewlitt Tech by pass, is that the block off option as well.

Also, from a prevention/inspection stand point, I can see pulling off the cover to check the foam filter, but is it also recommended to pull the tops of the valves and check them as well?

Lastly, does anyone know what other vehicles (besides the Tundra which I saw in this thread) was this system put on?

tecman

^^ The bypass prevents the system from running.

Acrad

Don't freak out... it will either be repaired by Lexus, relatively cheap self repair or bypass are all options. Be glad you have the 4.6L... the 4.7L is a guaranteed bypass in my book after seeing that Youtube video.

Octavious

As a preventive, I did this mod last night with the external filter, but in the process I hamfisted it and cracked one of the V shaped tabs on the cap. It all went back together and held fine but I'm curious if it matters since I am probably going to get the by-pass soon.

Also my stock filter was a little hard, but not brittle or breaking, and all in one piece.

Acrad

That will be fine. I wouldn't worry about it.

sivert55

3/6/18 update:
No further issues since I took it back to the dealer to have the tech plug the Driver-side air valve in tighter and clear the error code.
Next step: open the valves and check condition in my '08 Sequoia.

dmo711

This just happened to me Sunday morning when I started my 2011 460 to let it warm up in driveway. It threw the p2445 with the check engine lite, traction control and 4lo lite on. I had it towed to dealer and they confirmed it was this issue with the 2ndary intake sucking in the filter. They're repairing it all under warranty, thankfully. Mine just hit 86k miles. I'm supposed to pick it up later today; so we'll see. So far the dealer has been great!

HewittTech

P2445 is Pump Stuck Off Bank 1. The P2445 code coming on at startup is the normal way for that code to come on when there is a problem. When it comes on at startup this usually means the air pump vanes are deteriorated enough that it can't create enough air pressure to trip the system to tell it the pump is running. The P2445 coming on while driving in freezing temps is a special instance for some of the early 4.7L vehicles. This thread is about the 2010 and newer vehicles which are not affected by the cold weather glitch while driving.