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Did you replace with a OEM cap with a clean surface on filler opening? I used a 3rd party cap on an old Explorer and got evap related codes like this. I had to purchase an OEM to get a good seal. Nothing specific in any of the FSMs I have other than a leak somewhere in the evap system. Codes are actually fairly generic.
Do you know how dealer did pressure test? Via the gas fill port?
The cap was replaced by previous owner 14 months and 3,000 miles ago. The service notes from the Lexus dealership are kind of vague (see below), but I assume it was OEM. Wife just texted me and it has happened again. I'm going to pick up a code reader today at lunch and try to get it into the dealership tonight, but I go on vacay tomorrow. What a pain in the *** this is becoming.
DESCRIPTION:OTHERS ~ ~GUEST STATES THAT THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON. CODES FOR EVAP LEAKS. GUEST HAD THE CHARCOAL CANISTER, GAS CAP, AND PURGE VALVE REPLACED. THE LIGHT ONLY SEEMS TO COME ON WHEN THE GAS TANK IS OVER 3/4 FULL. CODES THAT WERE IN THE SYSTEM ARE: C1201, P0456, ~ ~RAN CODE TEST, FOUND P0456 IN HISTORY. CLEARED DOES AND PERFORMED EVAP SYSTEM TEST-FAILED. RAN TIS, FOUND LSB.0040. 10. COMPARED PART NUMBER TO INSTALLED CHARCOAL CANISTER-SAME INSPECTED FUEL CAP AND EVAP LINES, FOUND CRACKED/LOOSE FIT OF FUEL VAPOR LINE ~ ~R/R BOTH PURGE VALVE VAPOR HOSES WITH NEW CLAMPS. CLEARED CODE AND RETESTED-FAILED P0456. CONNECTED SMOKE MACHINE TO VEHICLE AND INSPECTED EVAP SYSTEM FOR LEAKS, NO VISUAL LEAKS FOUND AT THIS TIME. FURTHER DIAGNOSIS REQUIRED.OTHERS ~ ~GUEST REQUESTS TO HAVE INTERIOR A/C HVAC CABIN FILTER REPLACED ~ ~DIRTY/SERVICE INTERVAL ~ ~REPLACED INTERIOR HVAC CABIN AIR FILTER AS REQUESTED.
I was gonna suggest a smoke test but looks like they already did that. It is interesting they found previously a cracked fuel vapor line.
Perhaps leak only happens when things are heated up or at certain pressure levels in the tank. I've never looked at how pressure within gas tank changes with capacity and temperature....or if attempt is made by system to keep at the same pressure.
2013 GX with 97K miles. Just got the Trac Off indicator, blinking 4 Lo and solid check engine icon. Opened it up and the filter is gone. So we obviously need it repaired under the enhanced warranty.
Here is the wrinkle: we are on an island that is a $450 round trip ferry ride away from the mainland, and then an hour drive to the nearest Lexus dealer. There is an auto shop on the island that we could use. I called Lexus, and a case manager is supposed to get back to my by close of business on Monday. Questions:
Is it safe to drive until we can get it repaired?
Anyone ever have experience with getting Lexus to pay for repairs by an independent shop? The person I spoke with kept saying "potential" reimbursement and I couldn't pin her down. She said they review after and determine reimbursement. I asked why they wouldn't review the work to be performed beforehand to determine if appropriate and she said that's not their process. Sounds like the same person who put a crappy foam filter in this vehicle also designed the enhanced warranty process.
Anyone ever have experience with getting Lexus to pay for transportation and car rental expenses if the work is performed by a Lexus dealer?
Sorry to hear this.
yes it is safe to drive. You can unplug the pump, have the shop reset the code and drive.
Thanks. It is not in limp home mode. How do I unplug the pump? Do you think we can drive indefinitely? Home dealer is four months and 1,400 miles away.
Unplugging the pump probably will put you into limp mode so you might wanna hold off on that until you get a code reader you don’t already have one. I ran for quite a while with the pump unplugged so I don’t see why you couldn’t run indefinitely unless you need an emissions test.
Unplugging the pump probably will put you into limp mode so you might wanna hold off on that until you get a code reader you don’t already have one. I ran for quite a while with the pump unplugged so I don’t see why you couldn’t run indefinitely unless you need an emissions test.
Thank you. Sorry I'm a novice with this stuff. Can you clarify that the the steps I need to take are 1) get a code reader, 2) unplug pump, 3) use code reader to clear codes if it goes into limp home mode. If that is the solution, will it stay out of limp home mode with codes cleared and pump unplugged?
A few scenarios will probably work but this should as well:
1. Plug in OBD reader
2. turn Ignition to "ON" ... you could start but not necessary
3. Read codes with OBD Reader
4. Reset codes with OBD Reader
5. Turn vehicle off
6. Unplug Pump
7. Start car up. It shouldn't go into limp but Check Engine Light will obviously come back
A few scenarios will probably work but this should as well:
1. Plug in OBD reader
2. turn Ignition to "ON" ... you could start but not necessary
3. Read codes with OBD Reader
4. Reset codes with OBD Reader
5. Turn vehicle off
6. Unplug Pump
7. Start car up. It shouldn't go into limp but Check Engine Light will obviously come back
Probably fine to go ahead and unplug it but if not necessary I only see one advantage and that is not being inconvenienced with limp mode at a bad time so it may be worth the peace of mind. I guess I am a bit paranoid to cause a problem if not needed.
06-13-19, 05:17 PM
