ObsidianBl

Black16

I also had vinyl from bluebat and failed miserably at the install. Most shops were quoting around $100 to tint them but i didnt feel like having it ever peel off or fade. I also considered VHT'ing it red too but didnt want to screw up and ruin $250+ taillights.
I did tint the 3rd brake light darker so its almost unnoticeable up on the wing except when its sunny.

leftyguns

I used a heat gun on low heat and far away. it helped and I was able to stretch it in spots but the way these lights are it was a pain. they curve up and down and side to side in one area. hard part is finding that perfect mixture of heat, too little and its pointless. too much and it ruins the vinyl.

@Black16 that's where I ordered mine too. a local shop quoted $150 for the vinyl wrap. I will call and see what just the labor cost will be. or chalk it up as a loss and stay with clears.

ObsidianBl

Acrad

Realized my cupholder LEDs weren't working this morning. I had left the connector disconnected one of the times I was looking or working on things in the console area. Nice easy fix.

bbqsoup

If you work on door panels get this tool. It also good for working on those fender liners plastic push pins too. It's one super cheap tool to have
$1.38
https://www.ebay.com/itm/142722731570

bbqsoup

I went and look and didn't see any LEDs in the cup holders on the 2010 LOL...

Acrad

I think the two known unlisted changes from '11 to '12 were the lighted cupholders and the outside temperature display option on the center dashboard screen.

On product change sheet just "Color-keyed bodyside molding with chrome accent" and Fire Agate Pearl being a new color.

••I am correct on the temp display aren't I? I though '10 & '11 outside temp was just viewable in the climate control settings.

bbqsoup

You're correct. Outside temp can't be viewed on the center dashboard on '10 and '11. I wish it was a firmware upgrade to enable that but it looks like hardware was involve too.

MX5NES350

msgs350

iTrader: (2)

simer86

leftyguns

I cant speak for them but I can speak for waxing a car. its quite a simple process. I do a clay bar for the entire car, using a quick detailer as the lubricant. then a nice polish/glaze and a sealant. you only need to do one layer of sealant/wax. should take about 3-4 hours start to finish if doing by hand. unless you have a show car I don't see the need to spend the money on a buffer but that's my personal opinion.
if you want good stuff I suggest meguiars. it is worth the extra money for quality products.
do this twice a year and your car will stay looking good all year.

simer86

That's exactly what I been doing so far and getting great results. Using Meguiar's premium wax with the D pads and gives an awesome shine. However, certainly looking for a level up with ceramic coat and kind of like the shine of MX5NES350's

I believe ceramic coat gives better hydrophobic properties to the paint and help washing the car quickly. In other words, easy to maintain but not sure which product is best, is it feasible to complete this exercise at your own and how durable this coat would be?

Also, as folks say - this coat stays for 5 years though I take a real time number and assume 2-3 years. What happens after, will this affect the original paint shine or????

leftyguns

my car is white so I wont obtain the same shine. but mine is mirror like and looks great. (obviously I am bias)
5 years seems like marketing gimmick to be honest. I would never go that long between detailing. if you get a sealant like Meguiar’s #21 and do it twice a year your car will look great. its the clear coat you want to protect for the shine.
also be sure to wash your car with a high quality soap, I've been using their ultimate soap and wax for years now. I used to user their cheaper soaps and while they work, its not even half as good as this soap. this soap is just amazing with how well it cleans and shines. a bottle should last you a year + with weekly washing