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ive taken it to an auto store to have the battery tested both times it died, and it came back as "good".
12.9v the first time and 12.7v the next.
Yeah, voltage I already checked with my multimeter and always comes out good on a fully charged battery.. it drops to 9.x after 5 min on ACC on. So we either need the battery conductance tested or load tested (i think the load test will not work either) or amp tested to measure draw by putting an ampmeter in between the negative and battery post.
Dropped the GX off at the body shop Monday to repair a bad seam in the left rear quarter panel that was finished (poorly) by the previous owner. Didn't want to chance a winter with it open like that. Picked her up this AM.
So far it looks like Lsailt may be the culprit. just took out the power harness from Lsailt, so it lets the OEM display and console light up but the hard buttons and touchscreen do not respond. Sitting on ACC for 15 min now.. including few minutes on ON position (engine off) and DRL ON for few min. Battery went from 12.3 v to 9.7 on a multimeter. I shutdown the car and the voltage on battery slowly creeped back up from 9.7 to 11.5.. the car barely started after a long start (which is still bad given that I've sat in ACC for hour in my other cars). But this is better than with Lsailt, where its is totally dead after 5-10 min. Problem is that to take it to dealer I need to pull apart everything to remove Lsailt which I wanted to avoid. But I guess there's no choice.
When I was playing with the VL2 system, I killed the battery twice. I have a slow charger and plug it in until it’s fully charge again and it has been fine. When I have it on ACC too long, I usually plug in the charger over night to have it freshen up.
When I was playing with the VL2 system, I killed the battery twice. I have a slow charger and plug it in until it’s fully charge again and it has been fine. When I have it on ACC too long, I usually plug in the charger over night to have it freshen up.
I just unplugged the Lsailt from back of the unit too (and scratched the clock plastic along the way ). So now its in stock condition so I can get all my warranty stuff checked at. Will see if the ACC drain is similar to what i had with Lsailt.
Got the truck clear bra'd on Monday, including the outside rear view mirrors, the "A" pillars, with the bra material ending on the pillars straight across from the leading edge of the moonroof, the door handle pockets, the area on the roof between the leading edge of the moonroof and the windshield, the entirety of the hood, front fenders, all areas in the front not covered by the grille (head lamps, fog lights, turn signals, lower front valence (Sport Design package)) and the portion of the fenders where they joint up with the running boards. Glad to have got it done even though covid has put its dark cloud over wifey's off road instruction for the foreseeable future.
Got the truck clear bra'd on Monday, including the outside rear view mirrors, the "A" pillars, with the bra material ending on the pillars straight across from the leading edge of the moonroof, the door handle pockets, the area on the roof between the leading edge of the moonroof and the windshield, the entirety of the hood, front fenders, all areas in the front not covered by the grille (head lamps, fog lights, turn signals, lower front valence (Sport Design package)) and the portion of the fenders where they joint up with the running boards. Glad to have got it done even though covid has put its dark cloud over wifey's off road instruction for the foreseeable future.
Ken.
dang, and I thought I added a lot. I didn't / haven't done the roof yet. I plan to this summer.
I also added a section on rear bumper, from about 2-3" on each side of the black plastic piece down to bottom of bumper.
dang, and I thought I added a lot. I didn't / haven't done the roof yet. I plan to this summer.
I also added a section on rear bumper, from about 2-3" on each side of the black plastic piece down to bottom of bumper.
I did the area on the roof because I thought about it but failed to do it on my IS-F. As (my bad) luck would have it, I got hit by a rock, dead center, on the leading edge of the roof. The mark was bigger than it had to be because it was a direct, head on impact, as opposed to the glancing blows are vehicles usually experience. That was 10-years ago and still remains the only nick marring the exterior of that car. Told myself I would not make that mistake again.
May have to consider that bumper addition you described.
Got the truck clear bra'd on Monday, including the outside rear view mirrors, the "A" pillars, with the bra material ending on the pillars straight across from the leading edge of the moonroof, the door handle pockets, the area on the roof between the leading edge of the moonroof and the windshield, the entirety of the hood, front fenders, all areas in the front not covered by the grille (head lamps, fog lights, turn signals, lower front valence (Sport Design package)) and the portion of the fenders where they joint up with the running boards. Glad to have got it done even though covid has put its dark cloud over wifey's off road instruction for the foreseeable future.
Ken.
Would you please share how much does such a lot of coverage costs? I would like to do that too and never got a price quote yet.
Would you please share how much does such a lot of coverage costs? I would like to do that too and never got a price quote yet.
It's best to get an estimate from the folks you intend to employ for the job. That way, you can tell them exactly what you want and they can tell you exactly how much it will cost. At that point, you can add or delete as appropriate. I have been using these guys for 10 years and this is the 5th vehicle they have done for me. As a result, I get a good/returning customer discount that would not be available to a new customer. That said, the industry is very competitive so you should shop around if you think your estimate is out of sorts with the work you want done.
My guys use SunTek material, which is very transluscent and self-healing, as well. The devil's in the details with this work. I would want to see the previous work of the guys I was contemplating hiring before I hired them to do the work on my vehicle. Hope this helps and best of luck.
Would you please share how much does such a lot of coverage costs? I would like to do that too and never got a price quote yet.
I agree with @KJH its best to get a quote from a local shop since not all are the same. but do your research!!! At first I tried to save a few dollars and went to a groupon special. It was a nightmare. They did such awful work I was embarrassed to drive around. (Tint my ride in Denver for those in CO, avoid them).
You get what you pay for so check the company and their work and reviews. I removed the crap job from above and went to another shop called IDS to have them redo it and couldn't be happier(again those in CO, A+++++ shop). These bumpers are very complicated and have a lot of curves and angles. Pay the extra for a really high end shop.
To give you a rough quote, very rough, you should expect to pay $750+ for bumper, headlights, hood, mirrors. For roof, rear bumper, A pillars add a few hundred more. The paint protection is worth every penny too when done right.
11-26-20, 01:44 PM
). So now its in stock condition so I can get all my warranty stuff checked at. Will see if the ACC drain is similar to what i had with Lsailt.
