GX - 2nd Gen (2010-2023) Discussion topics related to the 2010 + GX460 models

Chassis #Lubrication / #Grease - #Propeller Shaft / #Spiders & #Slide #Yoke / #Zerks

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Old 10-16-22 | 09:54 AM
  #151  
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They still have zerk fittings

Example of rear:

3711060A40

"Fits GX 460 (2010 - 2022)"

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...oke-zerks.html

Old 11-02-22 | 07:49 AM
  #152  
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Default Update on Slip Yoke TSB

My dealer's service manager called (as promised) to advise me that they had a replacement driveshaft for my '21 GX. No more clunk noise upon initial acceleration. There was no visible difference in the part, just a revised part number. Speculation is that there may have been some slight change in machining tolerances? In any case, if you have a '16 -'21 (22?) with a clunk, give your dealer a call.

Originally Posted by Hrocks
So I now have experienced the slip yoke thump/clunk on my '21 GX. "11,000 miles ) Have had it on my two '16 GX's. Easy fix---grease the slip yoke. Never heard clunks again.

Based on the latest TSB for 2019-2021GX's Acrad posted above, Toyota states "Do NOT grease/lubricate the propeller shaft slip yoke". Told dealer that their master mechanic had recommended and done that on both of my '16s. Says he contacted Toyota who advised him NOT to lube. He filed some kind of inquiry with Lexus and is waiting to hear back. What the heck is the difference on the19 to 21's?? This TSB has been out for over a year now, and no known fix? (BTW, this my only b*tch with any of my three GX 460's)
Old 11-02-22 | 03:25 PM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by mckeand13
Just greased mine this weekend. I put the car in neutral and slid under there to do the work. Not a lot of clearance but since it was in neutral I could grab the driveshaft and rotate as necessary to get at the zerks. The car moves back and forth as you turn it so it's a bit of effort but doable.

Next time I'll put it on some sections of 2x6 or something to gain a little height. Beats taking the time to put it up on stands.
Putting car to neutral and then turn engine off or leave it on, I don't feel comfortable to get under the GX if the engine is on.
Old 12-25-22 | 06:54 AM
  #154  
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Old 03-01-23 | 09:15 AM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by Hrocks
My dealer's service manager called (as promised) to advise me that they had a replacement driveshaft for my '21 GX. No more clunk noise upon initial acceleration. There was no visible difference in the part, just a revised part number. Speculation is that there may have been some slight change in machining tolerances? In any case, if you have a '16 -'21 (22?) with a clunk, give your dealer a call.
Hey Hrocks. Thanks for your post. I have had the clunk too but only when cold. Took it in and they replaced the driveshaft. So far no more clunk. Let's hope it holds up.

Thanks acrad for the tsb. I printed it out and just gave it to the service advisor. He said that helped, which is surprising since they usually don't like being given stuff like that.

Last edited by hoverta; 03-01-23 at 09:30 AM.
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Old 03-15-23 | 03:27 PM
  #156  
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how many ounces is needed to finish the chassis lubrication ?
Old 03-23-23 | 09:47 AM
  #157  
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For those that got the Lock n Lube quick release fitting, is the normal short one good to get into the spider zerks or the extended fitting will be better?
Old 08-09-23 | 11:51 AM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by Acrad
Actually I did buy another one. I also bought some empty tubes to put my moly grease in. Now to figure out the best way to transfer the grease.
I'm done with leaking grease guns. If you're able to share where you bought the empty lube shuttle cartridges so I can load my own grease I'm gonna pick one up for the driveshaft. I went to go use mine today and ended up with more on me than in the driveshaft, such a disaster.
Old 08-09-23 | 12:38 PM
  #159  
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@nuclearn8

https://store.advancedenginetech.com...idges-10-tubes

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Old 08-09-23 | 01:48 PM
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So I put mine on jackstands so that I could freely rotate the driveshafts without worrying about my car crushing me. For each Zirk there is an angle that makes it easier to get to . I a just do this at the same time is a Tire rotation, so it's not really extra work.

I was able to grease everything with either the regular lock and lube coupler, or the right angle lock n lube adapter (not the super low profile one, just regular). Recently picked up an electric grease gun and it made the whole thing a lot more pleasant.
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Old 08-09-23 | 02:43 PM
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@Cvc Thank you for the report. Could you please list all of the equipment you used. Much appreciated in advance
Old 08-09-23 | 03:20 PM
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For accessing the grease fittings on u-joints a grease needle is the ideal tool.
Just depress the spring loaded ball in the grease fitting with the end of the needle and pump in the grease
Amazon Amazon
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Old 10-11-23 | 06:31 AM
  #163  
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Okay, garage report from me. I did this last night and it took me maybe 15 minutes max. I jacked up my GX and then put it in neutral. The only place where you have to slide deep under your truck is for the drive shaft behind the center differential, three zerks. For the other three zerks in front of the center differential, you just have to stick your head and arms in and it's very, very easy to reach the zerks if you use
this this
, unless of course the zerks are pointing towards the passenger side. In that case, you'll have to slide under a little deeper. There's no need to remove anything. The quick disconnect tip of the LockNLube linked above is the perfect size (length and width) to reach the zerk fittings. Thank you, by the way, to those who recommended it. I can't imagine a better grease gun for our trucks, to be honest. Also, last but not least, the 8-10 for the slip yoke, I used 10. The 4-6 for the spider U-joints, I used 6. It was exactly at 6 when I heard the crack. Not much old grease came out. I saw the tiniest amount squeeze through which I cleaned using a wooden bbq stick with a shop towel at the tip, creating a long garage Q-tip version.

Considering that my GX is a '22 and only 2 years old (only 32,000 miles), the 'thunk' when going from 'P' to 'D' or 'R' to 'D' was not at all loud, but that sound and the way it jerked was noticeable enough. After performing the above, I drove it around for maybe 6 miles total, parking, stopping, etc. and I can't believe how all of that went away. The foward thurst/jerk also softened by a LOT! It's barely even there anymore. I would dare say that if your truck is brand new, way before this maintenance is required, if you feel the same thing going into 'D', grease your drive shaft. Perhaps you won't need 8-10 for the slip yoke or 4-6 for the U-joints, but it does help.

Last edited by Seanzky; 10-11-23 at 06:35 AM.
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Old 10-11-23 | 10:22 AM
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Great report! Thank you very much! ... but no pics . Please go under your SUV one more time and take few pics of all zerks for the community. It is mandatory
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Old 10-12-23 | 08:23 PM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by mikezat
Great report! Thank you very much! ... but no pics . Please go under your SUV one more time and take few pics of all zerks for the community. It is mandatory
I'll be doing my friend's GX this Saturday. I'll take pics of that one.
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