GX - 2nd Gen (2010-2023) Discussion topics related to the 2010 + GX460 models

Chassis Lubrication / Grease - Propeller Shaft / Spiders & Slide Yoke / Zerks

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Old 09-06-20, 04:45 PM
  #106  
captainnem
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Is there anything wrong with using the moly type grease in all of the spots, not just the slip?

I guess I don't want to have to go buy a second grease gun on a vehicle that isn't driven a lot. This is the only vehicle with zerks.
Old 09-06-20, 04:54 PM
  #107  
Acrad
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I have seen a number of articles stating use for moly for slower speed applications but I am certainly no expert so just staying with recommendations.


https://www.machinerylubrication.com...e-right-grease

"Greases containing moly are recommended for roller bearings subjected to very heavy loads and shock loading, especially in slow or oscillating motion such as found in universal joints and CV joints. If such greases are used in high-speed bearings, problems can be experienced with roller “skidding” where the bearing roller fails to rotate through the full 360 degrees due to reduced friction. As a result, the roller develops flat spots, and its service life is reduced."

Last edited by Acrad; 09-06-20 at 05:35 PM.
Old 09-06-20, 05:29 PM
  #108  
nuclearn8
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I use 1 grease in all 6 zerks, no issues. Been doing this since we had our 2005 4Runner. Manual allows it as well so there is that piece of mind.
its in my ownership log.

Last edited by nuclearn8; 09-06-20 at 05:34 PM.
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Old 09-10-20, 11:50 AM
  #109  
geogecko
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Originally Posted by ObsidianBl
I also picked up the Azuno grease gun adapter from amazon to help with this job. Hopefully it'll work just as well as the more expensive coupler that was recommended on here. I'll need to get another valvoline grease cartridge. Mine ended up leaking all over when i stored it horizontally instead of vertically.

Edit:
Looks like amazon carries the tub version of the valvoline moly. I'll just bulk load a small portion and fill up as needed. This should keep the rest safe and secure when I need it.
https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-Syn...5608357&sr=8-7
I just threw away a tube of non-synthetic grease that hadn't been opened yet, b/c a lot of it had leaked on the garage floor, and I didn't trust the integrity of it anymore. I'm starting to think of trying your method of buying the tub. It seems like it will be much more messy though. From the looks of my grease gun though, I have to fully load the housing with grease, otherwise I would imagine that air would get in. If that is the case, I wonder if the grease would settle back into the container if the unused grease from the gun was just dumped back into the tub after use, without causing air bubbles?

If I got the tub, I'd probably look for a place inside the house to store it, so at least it wouldn't be subjected to the heat of the garage over the summer...
Old 09-13-20, 04:49 PM
  #110  
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Old 09-14-20, 11:52 AM
  #111  
entropydog
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Default test drive 2018 GX car lurch

Hi All,

New member here:
I test drove a 2018 Lexus Gx 460 the other day, it had about 25,000 miles. I was testing the Low range gear selector and locking differential button--- and with both engaged when I when I took my foot off the brake from a stop the car lurched forward a couple inches. After coasting for a bit when I pressed the brake to stop the car and it would lurch forward in the same manner right before the car came to a full stop. Does this have to to with the drive shaft/Slide yoke? What do you recommend I ask the dealership about it? Because of the dealerships covid policy the salesman was not in the car with me during the test drive. Should I post this question somewhere else? Thanks a bunch

Old 09-14-20, 01:38 PM
  #112  
nuclearn8
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Originally Posted by entropydog
Hi All,

New member here:
I test drove a 2018 Lexus Gx 460 the other day, it had about 25,000 miles. I was testing the Low range gear selector and locking differential button--- and with both engaged when I when I took my foot off the brake from a stop the car lurched forward a couple inches. After coasting for a bit when I pressed the brake to stop the car and it would lurch forward in the same manner right before the car came to a full stop. Does this have to to with the drive shaft/Slide yoke? What do you recommend I ask the dealership about it? Because of the dealerships covid policy the salesman was not in the car with me during the test drive. Should I post this question somewhere else? Thanks a bunch
sounds like normal behavior, especially if on pavement.
with the CDL locked on pavement wouldn't recommend turning with the CDL locked unless you your on a surface that provides ample slip (gravel, snow, sand, ice etc...) or the driveshaft will bind.

my only question is did you buy it?
Old 09-15-20, 08:50 AM
  #113  
entropydog
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Originally Posted by nuclearn8
sounds like normal behavior, especially if on pavement.
with the CDL locked on pavement wouldn't recommend turning with the CDL locked unless you your on a surface that provides ample slip (gravel, snow, sand, ice etc...) or the driveshaft will bind.

my only question is did you buy it?
Thanks for the feedback. I have heard similar things from others too. It really is in great shape and sooo...yes I bought it! I love it.
Sad story, I let me wife drive the last leg home after buying the car. Right as we were getting home from the dealership my wife hit the gate code tower and scratched up the front end. I just about died. The money I saved talking down the dealer is going right into fixing the paint. Facepalm.
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Old 09-15-20, 11:03 AM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by entropydog
Thanks for the feedback. I have heard similar things from others too. It really is in great shape and sooo...yes I bought it! I love it.
Sad story, I let me wife drive the last leg home after buying the car. Right as we were getting home from the dealership my wife hit the gate code tower and scratched up the front end. I just about died. The money I saved talking down the dealer is going right into fixing the paint. Facepalm.
it happens, it's a vehicle. Congrats on the purchase and post pics when you get a chance!
Old 10-06-20, 11:57 AM
  #115  
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I apologize ahead of time for my ignorance. Is the chassis lubrication supposed to help with squeaking? Thanks
Old 10-06-20, 01:37 PM
  #116  
Acrad
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Originally Posted by TXGSF
I apologize ahead of time for my ignorance. Is the chassis lubrication supposed to help with squeaking? Thanks

Not in the maintenance areas of this thread. You may have some worn suspension bushings.
Old 10-07-20, 09:40 AM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by bbqsoup


[Edit:How do you add caption to the pics?]
When you add a pic from the ADD IMAGE icon in the post there's a box under the image you can add a "tag", which just seems to be the same as just text in the post.
Old 10-08-20, 05:19 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by TXGSF
I apologize ahead of time for my ignorance. Is the chassis lubrication supposed to help with squeaking? Thanks
Originally Posted by Acrad
Not in the maintenance areas of this thread. You may have some worn suspension bushings.
Driveshaft lubrication helps when shifting from P to R to D and vice versa. Smoother when accelerating from a stop or slow speed.

Squeaking is most likely coming from the brakes if the last installer did not apply some grease to the pad backing plate.
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Old 10-09-20, 12:15 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by efaroh
Driveshaft lubrication helps when shifting from P to R to D and vice versa. Smoother when accelerating from a stop or slow speed.

Squeaking is most likely coming from the brakes if the last installer did not apply some grease to the pad backing plate.
Only add a smidge of grease between pad and backer plate. Why? The backer plate usually "beds" with the piston edge, so to allow the pad to move around the grease keeps pad from sticking to the backer plate.

The pads I use have a rubberized backer on the pad (perm fixed) or a rubberized backer plate. I never put grease on the piston side of the pad. Minimize the goo that will attract & hold dirt, etc.
Old 10-11-20, 11:36 PM
  #120  
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Thanks for the post, I greased up the spiders and yokes on my recently purchased 11 GX. Pretty easy job. The jerks were bone dry, looks like it has been a long while when these were greased in the past, but I didn't experience any noises or clunks while shifting from P-R-N-D so I guess they are in a good shape.
  1. Got a pistol grip grease gun from harbor freight and supertech NLGI 2 grease from walmart.
  2. Chocked the front wheels and jacked up the rear of the truck using a floor jack on the rear diff and jack stands on the axle
  3. Shifted the transmission to neutral to allow the prop shaft to rotate so that I can place the jerks at an accessible angle
  4. Did the Rear most spider at the differential first, 5-6 pumps before started hearing the crackling sound and the grease just started oozing out the spider joints.
  5. Then the rear yoke, gave it a good 15-17 pumps and the grease slightly started to come out at the end of the yoke where it meets the spider
  6. Next did the spider for the rear prop shaft at the transfer case, it took like 5 -7 pumps before the cracking sound and grease oozing out the joints
  7. Accessing the front prop shaft jerks was difficult, so got the rear end down on the ground and jacked up the front end, allowing me to rotate the front prop shaft to access the jerks more easily, also gave me enough room to fit the grease gun to the jerks
  8. Did the jerks for the spider near the transfer case 5 pumps, then the yoke 8-10 pumps, didn't see any grease coming out at the end of the yoke, but just left it with 8-10 pumps. Then final spider near the front diff 5-6 pumps and done.
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