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Thanks for the post, I greased up the spiders and yokes on my recently purchased 11 GX. Pretty easy job. The jerks were bone dry, looks like it has been a long while when these were greased in the past, but I didn't experience any noises or clunks while shifting from P-R-N-D so I guess they are in a good shape.
Got a pistol grip grease gun from harbor freight and supertech NLGI 2 grease from walmart.
Chocked the front wheels and jacked up the rear of the truck using a floor jack on the rear diff and jack stands on the axle
Shifted the transmission to neutral to allow the prop shaft to rotate so that I can place the jerks at an accessible angle
Did the Rear most spider at the differential first, 5-6 pumps before started hearing the crackling sound and the grease just started oozing out the spider joints.
Then the rear yoke, gave it a good 15-17 pumps and the grease slightly started to come out at the end of the yoke where it meets the spider
Next did the spider for the rear prop shaft at the transfer case, it took like 5 -7 pumps before the cracking sound and grease oozing out the joints
Accessing the front prop shaft jerks was difficult, so got the rear end down on the ground and jacked up the front end, allowing me to rotate the front prop shaft to access the jerks more easily, also gave me enough room to fit the grease gun to the jerks
Did the jerks for the spider near the transfer case 5 pumps, then the yoke 8-10 pumps, didn't see any grease coming out at the end of the yoke, but just left it with 8-10 pumps. Then final spider near the front diff 5-6 pumps and done.
So, just having trans in neutral will allow rotation of the front prop shaft or do you also need the wheels off the ground? Don't have this issue on my 4runner since it is part-time, can easily rotate the front. Need to be able to rotate to make this job about 100 times less annoying.
So, just having trans in neutral will allow rotation of the front prop shaft or do you also need the wheels off the ground? Don't have this issue on my 4runner since it is part-time, can easily rotate the front. Need to be able to rotate to make this job about 100 times less annoying.
@renau001
sorry for the late reply, just saw your post.
while doing the front prop shaft, you want the tranny to be in neutral and one of the front wheels to be in the air. this allows the front prop shaft to be rotated. Transfer case also has a differential so it's not necessary for the rear prop to be rotated at the same time.
@renau001
sorry for the late reply, just saw your post.
while doing the front prop shaft, you want the tranny to be in neutral and one of the front wheels to be in the air. this allows the front prop shaft to be rotated. Transfer case also has a differential so it's not necessary for the rear prop to be rotated at the same time.
no worries, thanks, I like to keep all 4 wheels on ground when doing the slip yokes to prevent it being extended while greasing, ended up just removing the heat shield, and it worked out fine
Sitting on 96,560... contemplating taking the '16 Premium to my local Toyota shop for the 100,000 service (because unlike many I don't do my own servicing). Seems when I first joined I found a thread about this, but I couldn't locate it. I think there was some mention to have them make certain the zerks were serviced???
I had mine done at the local toyota dealership at about 65k miles, few months ago. Along with an oil change they charged me a very reasonable ~$100 IIRC.
Can drive shaft of GX460 be lubricated? Can drive shaft nuts and bolts be re-torqued?
I have a 2016 GX460 with 75,500 miles. Bought it a year ago with 65,000 miles from a local Lexus dealer. Not willing to pay dealer rates, I am using my trusted mobile mechanic to do maintenance on it. I am using this mechanic for over 15 years to repair different vehicles and always trusted his professional opinion and never had any issues. While performing 75,000 miles maintenance on GX he told me the drive shaft can’t be lubricated because it’s sealed at the factory and it’s nuts and bolts are designed in such way they can’t be re-torqued. Owner manual states “ lubricate driveshaft, re-torque nuts and bolts” for 75,000 miles maintenance. Before going to the dealer I wanted to find an unbiased expert opinion.
It's a very easy service once you locate the zerks. Hardest part is moving the vehicle forward or back to get the zerks accessible. Maybe someone else can chime in about re-torquing the bolts.
Drive Shaft Universal Joints must be lubricated per the maintenance schedule ... per the "extreme service" interval if you are a long-term owner who values longevity. Unless you do heavy towing ... the need for re-torquing the drive shaft bolts can be argued.
Just had my joints lubricated today as car was in shop for a transmission fluid service. The lube was $65 parts (lube) and labor, seems a reasonable expense for this service
12-18-20, 07:06 AM
