2016 GX460 need dealer motor oil info
#1
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hi guys just had and oil change at lexus and was about to drop in some bestline oil additive but read on there website that they don't recommend to mix with Toyota oil so I wanted to know does lexus use Toyota motor oil or mobile one?
thanks Guys
thanks Guys
#2
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I think I recall reading that this varies depending on the deal the dealership got from the vendors. Receipt does not show it? Probably not. Only way to truly know is to ask what was put in.
#3
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To be honest... probably the cheapest bulk 0W-20 they can get their hands on.
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I have never used oil additive in my life. Do you have a problem and hope it will fix it or just dump it in for the heck of it?
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Ask the dealer for MSDS sheets on the oil they used. By law they have to have them available. See if a brand name is on those, if not try to compare Mobil One MSDS sheet to the dealership one, those are available online from Exxon-Mobil. Having been in the lubricant business for over 20 years, there isn't a lot of good in additives. The Mobil One 15,000 mile full synthetic is as good as you can buy and keep a warranty. There are some excellent synthetic racing oils, but they don't meet OE warranty specs because most don't have the necessary SAE ratings.
The only difference between the cheapest 0-20w oil and the most expensive 0-20w oil is the base oil, the additive packages are exactly the same. That is what the SAE standards govern is the additives, not the base oil. A true synthetic with an ester based not PAO.
The only difference between the cheapest 0-20w oil and the most expensive 0-20w oil is the base oil, the additive packages are exactly the same. That is what the SAE standards govern is the additives, not the base oil. A true synthetic with an ester based not PAO.
#7
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There is more than one kind of Mobil 1. The cheap stuff is PAO based and needs changed at 5k miles. It is a full synthetic, but not the best base oil. http://www.bestsyntheticoilfilter.co...complete-list/
The psi at the end of the description, is the load bearing pressure in a standard SAE test.
The psi at the end of the description, is the load bearing pressure in a standard SAE test.
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#8
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Further discussion & debate on oil film strength on BITOG...
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3019857
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...pics/1584948/1
Blog referenced
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3019857
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...pics/1584948/1
Blog referenced
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/
Last edited by Acrad; 07-17-17 at 07:16 PM.
#9
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I was at the dealership this weekend and I did see the Toyota 0w-20 full synthetic in boxes visible from the parts counter (not like the one for sale, but in bulk - easily 24 cases).
who knows if they use something else in a bulk tank in the back but for all that trouble I think they just use the Toyota brand.
who knows if they use something else in a bulk tank in the back but for all that trouble I think they just use the Toyota brand.
#10
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Well that's odd Lexus uses Mobil One, most of the dealers I've run into use something called CAM2.
So you're saying the additive packages are exactly the same between M1EP and M1?
Aftermarket additives usually do more harm than good.
SAE and API tests are bogus, in my opinion. More about extracting $$$$ than actually meeting any kind of specs.
Ask the dealer for MSDS sheets on the oil they used. By law they have to have them available. See if a brand name is on those, if not try to compare Mobil One MSDS sheet to the dealership one, those are available online from Exxon-Mobil. Having been in the lubricant business for over 20 years, there isn't a lot of good in additives. The Mobil One 15,000 mile full synthetic is as good as you can buy and keep a warranty. There are some excellent synthetic racing oils, but they don't meet OE warranty specs because most don't have the necessary SAE ratings.
The only difference between the cheapest 0-20w oil and the most expensive 0-20w oil is the base oil, the additive packages are exactly the same. That is what the SAE standards govern is the additives, not the base oil. A true synthetic with an ester based not PAO.
The only difference between the cheapest 0-20w oil and the most expensive 0-20w oil is the base oil, the additive packages are exactly the same. That is what the SAE standards govern is the additives, not the base oil. A true synthetic with an ester based not PAO.
Aftermarket additives usually do more harm than good.
SAE and API tests are bogus, in my opinion. More about extracting $$$$ than actually meeting any kind of specs.
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