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I had this rattle too - I used black e-tape (electrical) and wrapped it around the receiving bolt on the rear hatch, as well as put some around the rear shock ball pin where it connects on the door. Taping both of those items essentially made it go away, haven't heard it since. It was a rattle/clunk on mine depending on which way I was turning.
I had this rattle too - I used black e-tape (electrical) and wrapped it around the receiving bolt on the rear hatch, as well as put some around the rear shock ball pin where it connects on the door. Taping both of those items essentially made it go away, haven't heard it since. It was a rattle/clunk on mine depending on which way I was turning.
Again, since the tape, no issues.. Good luck.
Wow thank you very very much - I was doubting anybody will respond since this is an old thread - Will try and report back after a few days of testing
Same here. Don't know what the true root cause is, but a couple turns of tape twice a year is an easy enough fix for me.
Good luck. Hopefully that takes care of yours as well.
If mine ever starts doing this I will probably try to adjust this first up or down just a small amount to see if it helps. Then head for the tape method. :-)
Does anyone have knowledge of how much weight the Barn Door can handle? I.e.: mounting spare tire or jerry cans directly to the door.
I would use backing plates of course for any of these mods.
I fixed a rattle this past weekend which I assumed was the rear door but was not (it occurred every time I closed the door or hit a large speed bump).
My rattle turned out to be a plastic fastener than fell out which was keeping the thin metal support for the rear bumper fascia to the underside of the frame.
With the fastener gone, the metal support was tapping the frame causing a rattle sound. Installed a new plastic fastener and she's silent now.
Also if you live in a rust belt area, the exhaust heat shields are prone to rot, become loose once there's no material left for the nut hold against and then rattling commences...
UPDATE: The tape worked for a little hike but the rattle and squeaking is back.
The noises I hear is a very slight rattle / Squeak coming from the rear. Sounds like it’s coming from the drivers side.
Anybody have luck with removing and modifying the rear hatch shock? I may have to try that next.
Have you checked the jack area? I had a rattle when I picked mine up a few weeks ago and I ended up sticking a microfiber around the jack and then putting it back in place. That took care of it for me.
The shock is pretty easy to remove. I had mine off and the dealer replaced it when we thought that was causing my rattle.
Pop the clip off both ends and it comes right off. (being careful not to let the clip go flying....)
Originally Posted by DBLex1
UPDATE: The tape worked for a little hike but the rattle and squeaking is back.
The noises I hear is a very slight rattle / Squeak coming from the rear. Sounds like it’s coming from the drivers side.
Anybody have luck with removing and modifying the rear hatch shock? I may have to try that next.
Hello everybody, just to report the black electrical tape worked just perfectly fine for me, I also adjusted the hydraulic jack to be really tight just in case - It took me a while to come
back to report because the truck spent some time at body shop before I tried this fix - Thanks again.
Originally Posted by DBLex1
I did the electrical tape fix for the read door latch and the latch for the rear window. Seemed to help me.
10-04-19, 10:53 AM
