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One could likely recoup some of the costs when you pull off the suspension related components if you are going for a lift and aftermarket shocks. Even used they aren't exactly given away either.
I'll try to make a long story short, (and before anyone says it, I already realize I didn't research this weight issue as thoroughly as I should have)....
SUV: 2018 Lexus GX460. Tow capacity 6500. Does not have the air lift suspension.
Boat (new to me): Regarding the total weight, here's the data I based it on:
TESTING INFORMATION Model: Boston Whaler 230 Vantage. Engine: Mercury 300 Verado. WEIGHT SUMMARY Dry Weight: 4,800 lbs Fuel: 38 gallons Water: 10 gallons. Personnel: 360 lbs
Test Weight: 5,477 lbs
If the trailer is 1000 lbs or so, I'm right at 6500+.
So, assuming that I'm potentially pulling at least 6500lbs on a vehicle rated for 6500, we were hitting the first cross-member (or whatever the lowest point of the trailer is) when starting to back down the ramp. The vehicle towed fine, the problem was when you went from everything being horizontal to when the angle changed as you started to back down the ramp.
Wondering what my options are, if any, in terms of being able to launch this boat with this SUV:
My other big concern, is being able to pull that boat up a steep, potentially wet ramp.
Thanks for the feedback.
You could put aftermarket bags on your GX. The type that goes inside the coil springs. This will help you level things out.
Assuming it's a paved boat launch I would think the GX would pull that grade fine with a heavy load behind it. I'd throw it in 4L for less strain on the drivetrain while going up the rampe. If you don't lock the center diff you can still freely steer with no binding.
You could put aftermarket bags on your GX. The type that goes inside the coil springs. This will help you level things out.
Assuming it's a paved boat launch I would think the GX would pull that grade fine with a heavy load behind it. I'd throw it in 4L for less strain on the drivetrain while going up the rampe. If you don't lock the center diff you can still freely steer with no binding.
I'm not a car guy and always leave that kind of stuff to the pros, but can you explain a little more how these work? Would they keep the rear higher? Any idea what the cost is to install and could I add something like that to a leased vehicle?
The ramps are paved, but the one we use the most is really steep, has some gravel and with our 6 foot tide swings here in SC, is wet if you come in after high tide.
Yes. You could keep the vehicle near normal ride height. A compressor could be rigged up but for simplicity sakes a car tire valve could be installed on the back. You would just inflate/deflate based on needs. You wouldn't want to keep inflated at same psi unloaded as loaded. The ride would be quite stiff.
I'm not sure on the lease question but the manual fill unit would be easiest to remove.
IMO: 4L and center diff locked should still get you out of there even on gravel.
The bag kits alone are usually less than $150 for both bags... may an hour or two of labor. They are basically loosely placed inside the coils and then air lines are run.
I agree on putting the GX in 4Lo for maximum torque on short, steep inclines like a boat ramp. It'll also reduce the stress on your transmission. Try not to do a lot of sharp turning in that situation or you might get some binding in the drivetrain.
You could also try one of the ball mounts that are angled up to raise the tongue of the trailer as opposed to the more common ones that are normally angled down.
Another option is to get a weight distribution hitch. It will keep everything level, esp on a grade. Getting one with an integrated sway control is probably a good a idea especially when towing such a heavy load.
Toyota uses SAE towing ratings. If the GX 460 was rated like a Dodge, Chevy or Ford it would be another 1,000 or 1,200 lbs more. You should be more than adiquate. It’s a solid axel rear end and beefy.
Towing Max is never a good idea. Doesn't leave anything for a fudge factor, and needs everything to be exactly right, or gets dangerous real fast. You only need to have a tail wagging the dog once to make a real believer out of you. Make sure you have the right tongue weight, and a good load equal hitch etc. It becomes less about power, than about stability, and brake energy at that point.
How much does the GX squat when you hook up the trailer? If it is not an excessive amount, you could try a combination of larger trailer tire and adjustable ball mount (I recently did this to my boat to solve a clearance issue). I am guessing you have a thick aluminum I-beam trailer with a long tongue and 14" wheels with 2XX/75/14 tires. You likely have room to add 15" wheels with 225/75/15 tires (get radials!) and could even get a .5" lift block and longer u bolts to give the trailer a bit more altitude. Since you want to trailer to be level, you would need to raise the ball mount height at the back of the GX a corresponding amount. Assuming the ramps are steep enough that launching is not an issue, the above idea would get you a bit more clearance and might do the trick. Of course if you already have 15" wheels and 225/75/15 tires this is not going to help.....but the lift block might. I had to fabricate my own blocks but it was quite simple.
I feel for this person and these first world problems. I know how it is. Ever tried to keep a champagne bottle chill in our cars? Terrible, just terrible!
Kindly pass the grey poupon, please.
BTW, u r the only one that I know that doesn't need a bigger boat-lol-.
04-28-18, 01:01 PM
