When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Installed the Morimoto 2 stroke 2.0 bulbs today. Installation was stupid easy. I have not done the flicker reduction boxes yet (on order still) but I can get by. You can really only see flicker if you rapidly move your eye across the beam.
They work fine in DRL mode and the highbeams are a marked improvement. I'm happy with the quality and the purchase. No error messages, etc.
If you have some capacitors around, those could be used until the boxes get there. 10000uf is what i believe are in the boxes. these will work for PWM, not for relay switched or resistor dropped.
pretty sure we have PWM, but i never really checked with a scope since i dont use the original DRL.
Good to know these work drl and high
the 6v AC type adapters output about 7-9V dc open, and drop to the 6v at the stated load. one issue could be his adapter did not put out enough current, or the morimoto couldnt make up for such a low switching freq as comes off the wall. The PWM will be in the khz range while the wall is in hz range, major difference.
I haven't read this whole thread, but are the DRLs on these GX's PWM via amps? I am here to seek what you guys are doing and if any of it can be applied to the third gen RX or 2nd gen GS. Have any of you guys looked into the dimmer module by Xenon Depot? Supposedly on the newer Tacoma's and 4Runner's the dimmer module allows use of the LED 9005 as a DRL and separate High Beam, however I do not think every LED bulb has been tested with them. Looking at swaps myself, there is another solution that comes from the motorbiking world, however I am not sure how feasible it is.
Because I didnt find a DRL4 relay, or a DIM relay, it is most likely that we have PWM coming from the ECU that feeds the highs.
That xenon depot driver does the same thing as the morimoto, it sets 2 different constant currents through the leds based on average input voltage.
As for using it on other leds, as long as the 2 current levels provided by the driver aren't above what the leds you have can handle, then its ok. driver < whats needed means less light, less heat and longer life, > whats needed means more heat and shorter life.
Installed the Morimoto 2 stroke 2.0 bulbs today. Installation was stupid easy. I have not done the flicker reduction boxes yet (on order still) but I can get by. You can really only see flicker if you rapidly move your eye across the beam.
They work fine in DRL mode and the highbeams are a marked improvement. I'm happy with the quality and the purchase. No error messages, etc.
Got the Morimoto anti-flicker boxes today. Bad news is that the DRLs will not work with the boxes installed too. I called Morimoto and they said, "that's by design". The only way they can get rid of flicker is just to always run the bulbs at full power (aka high beam). So, i'm going to ditch the boxes and keep the bulbs (as the flicker isn't too bad) and wait on the VLED kit which is "a few months away" and will address all these issues.
No. it's a tight fit but you can manage without removing the light assembly.
RGB 194 pair, <3$ shipped, shows blue-ish color mode.
Got these bad boys today so here it is.
Entire assembly is encapsulated in silicone like substance.
The bulbs are brighter than conventional bulb that was in there.
They run cool, had them on for few minutes and got barely warm to touch, much cooler than standard bulbs that were in there.
Remote range is non-existent, meaning you have to be at touching distance to the headlamp.
Can't get these to shine white or amber color, white is on the blue side and amber is yellow.
Haven't fully tested this but seems you can either can have orange/amber part of headlight illuminated or off independently of the front of the side mark.
Couple cool things I did not expect from these: bulbs retain/remember what mode/color you left them on before turning off the vehicle so you don't have to constantly adjust anything.
Because of the range of the remote, each bulb can be configured independently of each other. I suppose this could be pro or con depending how you look at it. If you run strobe mode or flash, these will obviously be out of sync.
I'll try to post a video running through different modes and colors when have some time
Happy with the bulbs and will probably purchase few more sets as back stock.
Got the Morimoto anti-flicker boxes today. Bad news is that the DRLs will not work with the boxes installed too. I called Morimoto and they said, "that's by design". The only way they can get rid of flicker is just to always run the bulbs at full power (aka high beam). So, i'm going to ditch the boxes and keep the bulbs (as the flicker isn't too bad) and wait on the VLED kit which is "a few months away" and will address all these issues.
thanks for the update. seems like morimoto could have went with a better design to get no flicker. hopefully the vleds get it right. no LED should flicker from simple reduced current, that type of flicker is all their internal PWM circuit. Maybe we should make a gofundme and design one specific for our need.
Entire assembly is encapsulated in silicone like substance.
The bulbs are brighter than conventional bulb that was in there.
They run cool, had them on for few minutes and got barely warm to touch, much cooler than standard bulbs that were in there.
Remote range is non-existent, meaning you have to be at touching distance to the headlamp.
Can't get these to shine white or amber color, white is on the blue side and amber is yellow.
Haven't fully tested this but seems you can either can have orange/amber part of headlight illuminated or off independently of the front of the side mark.
Couple cool things I did not expect from these: bulbs retain/remember what mode/color you left them on before turning off the vehicle so you don't have to constantly adjust anything.
Because of the range of the remote, each bulb can be configured independently of each other. I suppose this could be pro or con depending how you look at it. If you run strobe mode or flash, these will obviously be out of sync.
I'll try to post a video running through different modes and colors when have some time
Happy with the bulbs and will probably purchase few more sets as back stock.
yeah cheap LEDs will show bluish, not white, Not sure why you went with a cheap option but you get what you pay for. LED remote control of colors is a red flag of cheap LEDs and I do have a similar product for under my hood. I use higher end LEDs for exterior lights that matter to me.
Entire assembly is encapsulated in silicone like substance.
The bulbs are brighter than conventional bulb that was in there.
They run cool, had them on for few minutes and got barely warm to touch, much cooler than standard bulbs that were in there.
Remote range is non-existent, meaning you have to be at touching distance to the headlamp.
Can't get these to shine white or amber color, white is on the blue side and amber is yellow.
Haven't fully tested this but seems you can either can have orange/amber part of headlight illuminated or off independently of the front of the side mark.
Couple cool things I did not expect from these: bulbs retain/remember what mode/color you left them on before turning off the vehicle so you don't have to constantly adjust anything.
Because of the range of the remote, each bulb can be configured independently of each other. I suppose this could be pro or con depending how you look at it. If you run strobe mode or flash, these will obviously be out of sync.
I'll try to post a video running through different modes and colors when have some time
Happy with the bulbs and will probably purchase few more sets as back stock.
Are you able to control the red, green and blue independently? Single color temp leds can shift with current which hits the junction temp. These might be able to be adjusted to get the correct mix. Or maybe somethings broken.
Wasn’t looking for white side markers so this doesn’t bother me whole lot, after doing some more testing this evening colors are definitely skewed on these. When I hit orange lights turn green, when I hit green button they are kind of yellow green, white is blue as mentioned etc. I like side markers in red or blue personally but that might get me in trouble. I might leave them in on white setting since that’s lightest blue . Also tested some cheap LED Low/High beam bulbs, they are horrible
This is close to my experience with cheap LEDs With trying to go white.
same here. the junction temp impacts the color, and the current creates the temp. the el-cheapos dont use a constant current driver, so the designer has to make a choice on the unregulated 11-16v. at one voltage, you can get the correct color, but then if the voltage goes up and draws more current, you change color AND risk burning out. So a higher voltage is assumed, a larger resistor chosen, and you get less current, less temp, and can have off colors. Throw all that on top of the LED bin, where the cheapest are the worst, and we get that type of color.
my added experience with the cheap non regulated lights is that they burn out, smoke and melt when the chosen resistance was too low for the voltage. at least this cheap rgb light seems to be filled with some silicone goo. this can prevent smoke filling housings, prevent fires and much melting. it can also act as a heat transfer mechanism and prevent excessive junction temps when theres no heatsink or airflow.
I got an el cheapo scope 40$ for myself for christmas, so here's the info on the highs used as drl.
to check if parallel/series relay switching is used, take out one high bulb. if the drl stops working on the other bulb, thats relay switching.
if the single bulb still works as drl (meaning reduced brightness) then its either pwm or a resistor. i've only heard of resistors used on the fj cruisers.
my guess is all our gen gx have pwm.
fact is my gx has pwm
drl
each tiny tick mark is 1 volt. power 13.6v turned on and off so the bulb gets about 5v average, thus dimmer for halogens. flicker or no operation for leds. anti flicker boxes usually are capacitors that even out the pulses to the average.
high mode
no more turning off the 13.6 volts. 13.6v at 100% duty cycle means highs on full brightness
it looks to me that the morimoto 2strokes should have been designed for a lower input voltage/pwm freq and there would be no flicker for drl. if they work at around 4.5v not pulsed then a bigger capacitor might do the trick (stop drl flicker)
Anyhow any progress? Do the 2 strokes flicker in drl or high ? Please post or send pics-and do You ntend to fix the 2 strokes with a vled kit of some kind? Or a whole new set -what kit is it thx close to buying 2 stroke need to know tgx
Originally Posted by lionsfan54
Got the Morimoto anti-flicker boxes today. Bad news is that the DRLs will not work with the boxes installed too. I called Morimoto and they said, "that's by design". The only way they can get rid of flicker is just to always run the bulbs at full power (aka high beam). So, i'm going to ditch the boxes and keep the bulbs (as the flicker isn't too bad) and wait on the VLED kit which is "a few months away" and will address all these issues.
12-18-18, 04:01 PM
