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As most newer Lexus models and other brand vehicles have standard lane change auto flashing features now days (the feature that you tap the turn signal switch, it auto flash 3 times), I always want to add that features to my 2014 GX. Not only I think it is a convenience feature, but also I am so used to that with my other cars only tap once when I am changing lanes. SO after some research and venture attempt, I now have the lane change feature on my GX now! here is the result and I will post detail process shortly:
There are many after market flashing relays available with lane change auto flashing feature. However, most of them are designed for standard 8 pins relay, Toyota uses the standard 8 pins relay for most of their lines, include earlier year Lexus models like ES, RX, IS, etc. By examining current GX, it uses a non-standard 18 pins flashing relay. From function point of view, GX uses a customized relay from Denso is to provide an additional 30A relay to support trailer lights. However, as more and more trailer incorporated LED lights, even standard flashing relay (15 to 20A) will be sufficient to support trailer anyway. Personally, I don't see myself to pulling a trailer anytime soon, so for me, I can just basically replace it with an aftermarket relay. With that in mind, I picked up a Japanese manufactured "eurolight" relay while I was traveling in Asia and also get some generic harness for that job, here is the products I am using and I believe that someone is selling those on eBay:
Originally, I was planing to make a custom cable harness with proper connectors attached for easy migration. But, what learned from Lexus dealer, the connector sells for $12 without any pins and wires, then each pin with wire sells for $12 each! That is just way to expansive to go that route. Since I have the all the pin layouts, I just going to do the old fashion way by tapping to those pins. Here is the pin layout for everyone who maybe doing the same mod late:
In order to access the OEM relay, you will need to remove lower part of instrument panel (the piece under the steering wheel). Since it is held by two bolts at the bottom, the left side of bolt covered by lower side kick panel (left to the foot rest), you will have to take out door skill panel, then the side kick panel, then the lower instrument panel. with that off, you are now can see the original relay, the rest is just take the connector off, tapping the wires with the new connector based on pin layout. Since the wires are very thin, the easiest way is using the lighter to burn of a little bit plastic shield, tap the wires and tape them secure:
After that, just test all the functions such as hazard lights, turn signals, door lock/unlock flashings. Then put everything back. You are now have the lane change auto flashing feature!
Great work, Hzhao! It's great to see this come to fruition. I am going to hate cutting/modifying the factory wiring, but part of me wants to get it done so I can finally have this for the GX.
What would be the best way to tap into the factory wiring? I would like to preserve the wiring as much as possible. People say soldering is always the best, but is it necessary for this? Would it be better to use vampire clips or scotch connectors?
Can we leave the original factory relay installed and have the new relay piggy back off of it? Would that mean we could still retain the 30A for the trailer lights?
Is your flasher relay adjustable (amount of blinks) like the Dynamic Diode version?
Great work, Hzhao! It's great to see this come to fruition. I am going to hate cutting/modifying the factory wiring, but part of me wants to get it done so I can finally have this for the GX.
What would be the best way to tap into the factory wiring? I would like to preserve the wiring as much as possible. People say soldering is always the best, but is it necessary for this? Would it be better to use vampire clips or scotch connectors?
Can we leave the original factory relay installed and have the new relay piggy back off of it? Would that mean we could still retain the 30A for the trailer lights?
Is your flasher relay adjustable (amount of blinks) like the Dynamic Diode version?
I thought about that too and will do anything to avoid tapping into the OEM wires directly, that is why took so long to get to this project. I originally thinking about to make an custom cable with both male and female OEM 18 pins connectors with re-route non-trailer part of wires off to 8 pins connector for after market relay. However, the costs two OEM connectors and wires with pins for the connectors, just made economically impossible. The OEM connector cost about $12, and wires with pins for the connectors is about $27 each! Thats just for one end, so you will need 8 wires to new connector and at least 6 for both end of OEM connectors (6x2), and total 20 wires with OEM pins !!! As far as the wire taping clips, since the wires on the harness are so thin, I am a bit afraid to using clips may accidentally cut the wires. So, its pretty much the last option left for me to directly attached the wires. For now, I have the OEM relay still in place, if I even need to go back, just take off the after market relay, plug the OEM connector into the OEM relay.
That relay is not programable. Its cost about same as Dynamic Diode's offer. The only reason that I didn't go with Dynamic Diode, is because there are reports that others have ran into DTCs after installed one. Not sure why and I have no way to verify either. The ones I have bought seems pretty popular in Asia, and I got it from the same supplier where I bought the auto mirror folding module.
Definitely like to try those in the future. The wires in this case probably is 26 ga or even thinner. In a tight spot, not much of lead way, I was more concern any physical cutting into it if resulted completely cutting it. Never used post-tap before and good to learn something new again.
I hadn't either until a few years back when I was converting a couple ATVs for road-legal status. I had to add a horn and LED turn signals. They come in all sizes too.
Hzhao,
I was thinking about this again. I still want to make or purchase a harness to connect the original wires to the new 8 pin relay.
Do you have the part number for the connectors (both the 18 pin and 8 pin)? The 8 pin connector could be easily obtained from any Toyota at a junk yard with a few inches of the wires. I’m having trouble finding a suitable 18 pin male connector.
Could we use say 18 gauge wires and some sort of molex connectors? Or is there something special about the wires that the dealer was selling for $12 each?
Hzhao,
I was thinking about this again. I still want to make or purchase a harness to connect the original wires to the new 8 pin relay.
Do you have the part number for the connectors (both the 18 pin and 8 pin)? The 8 pin connector could be easily obtained from any Toyota at a junk yard with a few inches of the wires. I’m having trouble finding a suitable 18 pin male connector.
Could we use say 18 gauge wires and some sort of molex connectors? Or is there something special about the wires that the dealer was selling for $12 each?
The 18 pins female connector house part no.: 90980-11973, There are two size of pins for the connector, 4 of them are larger: 82998-24380, the rest of them are smaller (thinner): 82998-12690. All the pins have the lead wires attached. I thought able using the thick solid wires directly plug into the connector as alternative, but the density on the connector is so close and it is difficult to secure with such thin wires, it just to risky as a permanent solution. I finally took the tapping route. If I need to go back to OEM, all I have to do is remove the after market relay, plug the 18 pins connector back into OEM relay.
I don't have the part number for the connector, but if you ask Lexus or Toyota service or parts, the 8 pin flash relay is widely used for many models, such as 2010 RX or Camery or ES, etc. I purchased the above relay and connector while I was traveling in China. You maybe able to do a search on eBay or Aliexpress to find the same thing.