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Hello all,
I have an interesting issue with my 2010 gx460. I had a local Toyota specialty shop install EBC rotors and pads about 8000 miles ago. I also had them swap the brake hoses with power stop stainless steel braided brake hoses. Last weekend I noticed that my brakes were making some awful noise so I dropped the vehicle back at the shop that did the install. They pulled the wheels off and said that the rear pads are completely worn through and the rear rotors are shot from metal on metal braking. They also indicated that the fronts are already down to 8/32. The technician working on the car has no suggestions as to the cause of the premature depletion of the pads. According to the tech the rears are completely worn through on both sides and worn even/flat which suggests that it is not an issue with the caliper. The best that they could offer is that I was driving with the parking brake on, which I know is not the case as the GX screams at me if I do that. Additionally, the parking brake on the GX is a drum inside the rotor hub so I don't believe that would even cause the rear pads to wear out. Any ideas here? At this point I am going to have them replace the rears and see if it happens again, pretty expensive experiment assuming I will be right back where I am now in 6months. Any help here would be appreciated!
I supplied the rotors and pads, EBC orange stuff and the slotted/dimpled rotors. I'm not sure knockoffs would account for the rears going out before the fronts but I contacted EBC and they are going to send out some greenstuff pads to try. I will ask about the spring things when I take in the new pads. I did noticed that the rears were making quite a bit of noise even when I was not braking and some pretty crappy mpg numbers so the rears must be in contact when I am not braking but the shop said everything is spacing out correctly. I do drive fairly aggressively but I believe the only cause for premature deterioration of the rear pads relative to the front is the activation of the traction control system which has rarely occurred since I had these installed.
Could they have failed to install the return springs thingies when they put he pads in and the pads were dragging against the rotors?
Did you notice your MPG was off since the install? Maybe a weird smell?
For popping off the rear rotors, I tried the star wheel but they were still stuck due to light rust on the face. Rather than hitting it with a hammer, I used two bolts for the threaded holes on the face of the rotor to push against the hub and off they came. If you're messing with the star wheel, it takes little effort to move it either direction. These were the same bolts I had used on my LS430 awhile back. Not sure what size/pitch/thread... though I found the info here on CL.
The rust was light since it's a Texas rig. For your northern guys, it might be worse. I put some antiseize on the lip of the hub where the rotor sits so hopefully it won't be an issue for the next guy.
For popping off the rear rotors, I tried the star wheel but they were still stuck due to light rust on the face. Rather than hitting it with a hammer, I used two bolts for the threaded holes on the face of the rotor to push against the hub and off they came. If you're messing with the star wheel, it takes little effort to move it either direction. These were the same bolts I had used on my LS430 awhile back. Not sure what size/pitch/thread... though I found the info here on CL.
The rust was light since it's a Texas rig. For your northern guys, it might be worse. I put some antiseize on the lip of the hub where the rotor sits so hopefully it won't be an issue for the next guy.
Usually M8x1.25 and a decent length to be able to push away from the hub. Sometimes the are still seized and the BFH is all that will work.
Forget about SS brake lines, glazed pads and the like. If you breathe too hard too fast on a GX brake pedal, the dang ABS kicks in so much more aggressively than any other vehicle I've driven. Usually you can do some pretty hard threshold braking in ABS vehicles without them immediately kicking in hard and fast. If you're GX isn't stopping easily or you truly have a mushy brake pedal, then there's either air in the system or some other malady. I used to totally purge my braking system on my track cars, but now have it done every couple of years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic--it attracts moisture. If you've ever heard someone say that they "boiled" their brakes, and their pedal went to the floor after riding their brakes down a hill (or at the end of a long straightaway) it's very likely that it was the water in the brake fluid that boiled @ 212*F, not the 550*F or higher brake fluid. I would go to a reputable shop or more likely who knows how to effectively totally purge your system and most importantly the ABS system. Some vehicles require a very deliberate and bleeding procedure for the ABS. Hope this gives you some direction that helps.
Regarding my comments highlighted above, having owned my '21 GX for about 18 months now, I've noticed a huge difference in the calibration of the EBD (Electronic Brake Force Distribution system) from my 2016's. Seems to me that they have seriously toned down the intervention of the EBD. On my '16, if you hit the brake pedal abruptly because you anticipated someone starting to cut in front of you for instance, and immediately backed off, the EBD continued to apply max force and kicked in the ABS. It was unnerving and IMO, dangerous because you had already backed off the brake pedal, yet the EBD calibration assumed you were in an eminent impact situation. The '21 calibration is much less sensitive to that situation and doesn't intercede abruptly. However, the Pre Collision and Pedestrian System can intercede. It seemed to me that there may be a "learning curve" to this system, as it appears over time it has become much less sensitive than its initial factory calibration. In any case, I do believe that Lexus improved the intervention calibration in the past five years. Maybe one of our experts can comment. I have no confirmation as to whether it does or doesn't have the ability to learn one's braking style, (as it does the way you accelerate and adjusts the fly by wire throttle response and shift points) just my seat of the pants feel.
This is a great subject. I have owned five (5) 4-Runners, an FJ Cruiser and two (2) GX's ... and ALL easily went 35,000-odd miles on the Front Pads and 75,00-odd on the rear pads. My current 2019 GX460 just chewed thru the Rear Pads in 30,000 miles and I do not tow or carry heavy payloads. I have seen recent posts to the same. Given the rear brakes contribute < 30% to braking ... has Lexus softened the rear pad material ????
in my case, pads on all four wheels seems to wear down evenly.
my driving is mostly highway commute.
I was at DT for tire rotation and noticed that pads are almost gone.
Do you guys have issue with GX460 with hard braking? When I do hard braking, there is a point where the car brakes far stronger than my input. It sometimes locks up wheels. I find it hazardous especially when I'm towing. Is there any way to fix this?
I also feel my powersteering is little stiffer than gx460 I drove at the dealer before I bought this one. How do I get to the reference vacuum line for the power steering & brake booster where it's prone to cracking? I was thinking maybe this is connected somehow... car otherwise is perfectly fine. wonderful ride.
11-16-21, 11:22 AM
