Rotors
07-27-20, 08:12 PM
#181
Pole Position
i don't know what the f is going on with my GX, as previously mentioned, 2 weeks ago replaced my pads and rotors, brand new again at the dealer, last night i was driving in the city, going 20-25 mph and was slowing down coming to the red light, maybe from half a block, there was 1 car already standing at the light, closer to that car im realizing my truck isn't slowing down in time as it should so i step a little more on the brake and i get slip indicator light on my dashboard, had to quickly release and reapply brakes and then it stopped. I don't know if this is because ive been driving non stop yesterday, i did a 450 mile trip with just 1 stop to fill up or what but this is seriously some bull**** happening with my brakes ever since i originally replaced them in February and then again two weeks ago due to failing rotors.Going to the dealer tomorrow, lets see what they say this time.
P.S. answers to previous posts
- no rust
- parked outside
- equal tire pressure everywhere plus perfectly balanced tires
- do not have a heavy foot
- mostly highway driven, i say 80% of the time
P.S. answers to previous posts
- no rust
- parked outside
- equal tire pressure everywhere plus perfectly balanced tires
- do not have a heavy foot
- mostly highway driven, i say 80% of the time
07-28-20, 12:51 AM
#182
no pedal seemed fine, its like brakes weren't grabbing, thats the best i could describe, ill see what they tell me tomorrow at the dealer because this has not been good with brakes, never had anything remotely similar to this
07-28-20, 08:01 AM
#184
Pole Position
Rotor Wash US English NB11020(1).pdf
Last edited by ASE; 07-28-20 at 09:31 PM.
07-28-20, 09:19 PM
#185
[QUOTE]Very good advice. If you have the parking brake on, you'll either not be able to pull the rear rotor(s) off, or, if you do pull them off, you'll also pull off all the parking brake hardware. And, reinstalling the parking brake hardware is a major pain.
07-28-20, 09:24 PM
#186
You have air in your brake lines and the air needs to be bled out of the lines. When you have air in your lines, it feels like you are stepping on a thick sponge, rather than a solid brake. Take it back to the place that did your brake work and tell them to bleed your brake lines.
All the vehicles you listed above use exactly the same brake pads and rotors.
07-28-20, 09:29 PM
#188
Pole Position
You have air in your brake lines and the air needs to be bled out of the lines. When you have air in your lines, it feels like you are stepping on a thick sponge, rather than a solid brake. Take it back to the place that did your brake work and tell them to bleed your brake lines.
07-28-20, 09:33 PM
#189
As others' indicated, rust will not warp your rotors. Only heat will warp your rotors. Obviously, a heavy foot, or resting your left foot on the brake can cause heat. Also, you might need to lubricate the sliders on the sides of your brake pads. (Without lubrication, the pads will stick and that will cause heat).
08-27-20, 02:53 AM
#190
Super Moderator
Vid1
Vid2 (4R)
Vid3 (4R)
Vid2 (4R)
Vid3 (4R)
Last edited by Acrad; 09-27-20 at 09:39 AM.
08-27-20, 05:51 AM
#191
Intermediate
I like how he's using that little wrench to break the caliper bolts...
I've ordered new OEM rotors and pads last week. My rotors were machined at 50k, but now I'm getting some pretty good vibrations with soft pressure so it's time to refresh.
I've ordered new OEM rotors and pads last week. My rotors were machined at 50k, but now I'm getting some pretty good vibrations with soft pressure so it's time to refresh.
The following users liked this post:
Acrad (08-27-20)
11-22-20, 12:18 PM
#192
Super Moderator
Front
Rear
Rear
Last edited by Acrad; 11-22-20 at 12:22 PM.
11-23-20, 06:30 AM
#193
Intermediate
Those are good videos, especially for the rear. The other tutorial I've seen on CL mentions using the threaded bolts to remove the rear rotor without backing off the ebrake shoes, which is a bad idea. I've cracked a seized rotor using those bolt holes, so if they don't turn easily and create movement on the rotor then it is still too tight. Try loosening the ebrake a bit more, or whack the rotor a few times with a rubber sledge. If you can pull the rear rotors off without backing off the ebrake then it is probably an indication that your ebrake isn't adjusted properly.
Besides counting your clicks on the adjusting gear, you can also adjust the ebrake by tightening the adjuster until you cannot turn the rotor, and then back off the gear 2-3 times so that you can turn the rotor, but it's "snug" on the shoes.
Besides counting your clicks on the adjusting gear, you can also adjust the ebrake by tightening the adjuster until you cannot turn the rotor, and then back off the gear 2-3 times so that you can turn the rotor, but it's "snug" on the shoes.
The following users liked this post:
Acrad (11-23-20)
03-31-21, 04:51 AM
#194
05-20-21, 01:09 PM
#195
Rotor upgrade
I want to upgrade my rotors and brake pads to z36 powerstop brand. one of my friend suggested this for towing purposes. I want to tow a trailer of 4500 pounds. I asked some independant shop. they are charging $560 for the four rotor and brake pad upgrade labor.
Please let me know whether that is worth the upgrade. Would dealer do this work? I want to give to a shop who just does right so they do not mess up anything.
Thanks