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It was a semi hard plastic piece about 1” long 5/8” diameter. It was a tight fit into the fill hole but obviously was small enough to fall in. It was stupid of me to use that assembly- it was just what I had. Obviously some 1/2” clear tubing would have been wiser.
is there a big concern that once it gets ground up, it clogs orifices or whatever and destroys the AT?
Size of the nipple? Not sure if it would get ground up or if it would get lodged somewhere and obstruct something. If it were me, I'd probably just let it ride and change the fluid and filter again soon (check the other thread for my experience doing the filter) and hope for the best.
Not to beat a dead horse, but the Motive Power Fill is the best option for anyone reading this and considering doing the service on their transmission.
Drop the pan and recover before starting the engine. Why run the engine and take any risk ... just drop the pan, with this question prudent if you cannot recover.
It was a semi hard plastic piece about 1” long 5/8” diameter. It was a tight fit into the fill hole but obviously was small enough to fall in. It was stupid of me to use that assembly- it was just what I had. Obviously some 1/2” clear tubing would have been wiser.
is there a big concern that once it gets ground up, it clogs orifices or whatever and destroys the AT?
I mean, you can drive it around the block, drain fluid and run the fluid through a screen and see if you see any bits from the nipple. Likewise, you can do the filter and cut it open and look. I'd probably do this immediately and then again after 100 miles or so, depending on what shows up. Doing a few filters and several quarts of fluid is going to be cheaper than anything the dealer would do.
You might seek a more qualified forum with automatic transmission experts who can chime in and give you an opinion. Not to knock anyone here, but I think most of us are just casual mechanics. I'd like to think I'm pretty capable and what not, but honestly, I have no idea how an automatic transmission actually works. I've seen them torn down when I worked at a Chevy/Cadillac dealer so I know they have pretty complicated internals.
Keep us posted and you might check used transmission prices, just in case. A used tranny shouldn't be too terribly expensive or difficult for a regular mechanic to install.
Stay positive, stuff like this happens to all of us, sooner or later.
Drop the pan and recover before starting the engine. Why run the engine and take any risk ... just drop the pan, with this question prudent if you cannot recover.
From the other thread, I think he already dropped the pan and wasn't able to recover it...
I circled in Red in the vicinity of the fill plug. It's hard for me to tell where this piece could end up. If it gets ground up, will it also travel thought all of the routes and crevices of the valve body? Reading up on similar situations, albeit different cars and I think Manual Transmissions, 2 people had their transmissions lock up. How would a technician access this area??
@HanksLexus
It seems like you have limited options if you're not willing to replace the transmission completely.
Option1: Run it and hope the plastic doesn't clog any passage and it eventually melts in the hot fluid to the point where it eventually gets absorbed into the fluid and you can drain it out.
Option 2: attempt to put a borscope camera into the fill hole (like was being suggested to view the coolant valley leak and then use a flexible gripping tool or hook to pull it out (assuming you can see it).
At this point putting something else inside the tranny fill hole which could potentially fall off isn't hurting anything. We've already accomplished that... right?
I don't think the transmission fluid is going to get hot enough to melt the plastic, even during a severe-use session.
You may go to the dealership and ask to talk to an actual Lexus master tech and see what they have to say. Give him a gift card to lunch for his troubles.
I don't think the transmission fluid is going to get hot enough to melt the plastic, even during a severe-use session.
Agree. I'm buying an endoscope. My grabber tools barely fit in there but the location make it VERY difficult to sweep and grab. I plan to call some reputable transmission shops in the area which may be helpful. I like the idea of Lexus working on it, but also like the chances a transmission specialty shop would be more willing to work with me on removing the object for a reasonable cost. If I want to keep the object where it is, I should NOT crank the car, correct? If I put the car in Neutral, should I be able to Roll/Tow the vehicle with no issues or is that going to be turning the transmission?
Do NOT crank the car until you know what you want to do with it. As soon as it starts, fluid should be circulating in the transmission.
There shouldn't be anything too complex about this transmission for a specialized transmission shop. Lexus is going to be stupid expensive, figuring at least $125 hour labor rate if not higher. A good, indy shop might be less. Just make sure whoever does it retains the nipple piece for you so you can verify that it was actually removed.
@HanksLexus
It seems like you have limited options if you're not willing to replace the transmission completely.
Option1: Run it and hope the plastic doesn't clog any passage and it eventually melts in the hot fluid to the point where it eventually gets absorbed into the fluid and you can drain it out.
Transmission fluid operating temperature is between 175-220 degrees F ... common plastics start to melt above 300+ degrees F ... so depending on the exact plastic material, it's possible the cap could somewhat deform into a blob, but certainly not dissolve and become benign.
02-06-21, 03:11 PM
