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Have same problems with my 16 GX 460 Luxury. Washed my car after got back from long trip, parked it in garage with emergency brake on and after week long of park, started it up, put in gear, release emergency break and it get stuck, went no where. Contact Lexus and they send tow car to pickup my car to dealer for service.. The close Lexus dealer about 130 miles each from my house. Dealer had done nothing with my car because they can't find problems after I give them one week to washed and parked to checked. I mentioned with them about problems and suggested it due to parking (emergency) break but dealer don't care.
I'm tired with it and with 4th times with same problem, while we tried to got car moving, we facetime with dealer and recorded it on phone. After got car moving, dealer send tow car to towed my car to dealer and after one week they call back and let us know some thing wrong with transmission and they want to replace my car transmission with refurnish one. I told them it may due to the break but they told us after discussed with company and other dealer, they never see any things like this before and they think due to the transmission lockup that's the reason why we here big bang when car moving. Well, I'm tired with it so I'm OK to replace my transmission but with not refurnish one because my car still new with 11k on it. Dealer call me back a day later and let me know company approved for new transmission on my car but I have to wait at least a week before new transmission coming because it ship from Japan.
After 5 weeks we have car back with new transmission.
Does this old method work on the GX? I do recall that backing with brakes would tighten the emergency brake on older model cars.
Not sure it works on the GX. Looking at the pic of the parts, I don't think it would. The older cars had an additional arm that would hit the teeth on the spindle, I don't see it above. Maybe there's a new way to do this?
I did see this though which appears to be adjusting that same part to get it tight:
So I made a solid mistake and lost a plastic cap in the rear diff when I was doing an oil replace....yeah, big oops. So that meant that I had to remove both axles and remove the diff to get the plastic cap. (Yes, I tried for quite a while to fish it out.) My name is Dazed. Yes, I am an engineer.
Everything is going well until I get to reinstalling the parking brakes. Its been over 2 hours and I have only one pad done. This is possibly the most frustrating thing I have done on a vehicle and that includes a restoration and engine swap from a gas to a diesel in an old 1985 FJ60.
Now, one might say, look at the FSM. I did. Its downright useless. The FJ60 FSM (paper copy, I might add) had pictures for everything and said exactly how to do stuff. The GX460 (digital, I might add) just has text, very few pictures and makes more than a little challenging to use unless you already know what each spring's name is.
So I am stuck, attempting to get the "parking brake shoe return tension spring" (I think) installed on the second pad.....its been 45min worth of trying. Has anyone else had this monumentally frustrating ordeal and can offer advise? How in the world can they do this efficiently at the factory?
One piece of advise I found so far: when installing the "the parking brake shoe hold down spring cup and parking brake shoe hold down spring", I used hemostats to turn the little cup. It took a while to figure that out, but once I did, it got much easier. I only have three more of those to go!
Needle nose pliers also work for the springs/pins. Drum brakes suck, but they are overly simplistic and the process hasn't changed in DECADES. Watch a few YouTube videos and you'll find it's not as bad as it seems. Once you get them set in place, make sure you adjust the wheel so properly align the shoes.
Did the drums on my old Scion xB and hadn't done drum brakes since autoshop almost 20 years ago. Took a bit, but it all went back together. Deeeeeep breath, you can do it.
One of these brake clip tools help for the hold down spring and cups?
Acrad, thanks for pointing me to the naming sheet, it was very helpful! The tool that you posted will not work since the hole that it would normally go through is too small on the GX.
I used three primary tools. In order of importance:
1. A strong Old Fashioned to lube up a bit
2. hemostats to help with the Hold Down Spring Cup
3. A tool like a Lisle 11260 to grab the Shoe Return Tension Springs with the hook park (https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...-spring-pliers)
It all got back together (along with a TON of other maintence), now to go test it all out......
Please forgive me if this sounds dumb, but in my other vehicles it didn't require me to press the emergency break as far to engage E breaks
But this GX460, for instance, when I'm unloading my boat or even on a steep hill with the car by itself, unless I press it almost all the way in, it doesn't stop the car from rolling. I have to really press it almost all the way to the end to make sure it doesn't roll on the hill on me.
So, I'm just wondering if I keep on pressing it that far, will it damage the car in anyway? I park in my garage most times but at least a few times a week I have to park in my driveway that has pretty good amount of steepness
The GX uses a drum brake inside the rear brake rotor for an emergency brake. It is cable actuated, so two things come to mind off the top of my head. 1.If the e-brake is not holding the vehicle properly, make sure the drum brake is adjusted properly. I haven't done this on the GX but I imagine it involved removing the brake rotor and turning the adjuster between the brake shoes (somebody please correct me if this drum brake does not have the typical adjuster). Now, if the emergency brake actually holds the vehicle properly if you press the pedal far enough, then: 2. Adjust the cable. IIRC underneath the vehicle there is an adjustment point where the cable splits into two to go to each rear wheel. There also might be some sort of adjustment available at the e-brake pedal itself, not sure.
The GX uses a drum brake inside the rear brake rotor for an emergency brake. It is cable actuated, so two things come to mind off the top of my head. 1.If the e-brake is not holding the vehicle properly, make sure the drum brake is adjusted properly. I haven't done this on the GX but I imagine it involved removing the brake rotor and turning the adjuster between the brake shoes (somebody please correct me if this drum brake does not have the typical adjuster). Now, if the emergency brake actually holds the vehicle properly if you press the pedal far enough, then: 2. Adjust the cable. IIRC underneath the vehicle there is an adjustment point where the cable splits into two to go to each rear wheel. There also might be some sort of adjustment available at the e-brake pedal itself, not sure.
Hey I appreciate the feedback and the detailed notes there.
but I'm not so comfortable doing those myself and I trust the techs who have put the vehicle together in Japan. Mine is a 2022 model that was bought 2 months ago and I hardly doubt it was a manufacturer's error if any. So I wonder if I put the ebrakes too hard if it damages the parts that are holding the tires together, or any sort of damages.
04-07-19, 05:28 AM
. So that meant that I had to remove both axles and remove the diff to get the plastic cap. (Yes, I tried for quite a while to fish it out.) My name is Dazed. Yes, I am an engineer.
