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Since we purchased our GX, I have always thought the climate control fan has had an irritating noise. It is a high-pitch sound that I can easily hear when the fan is on a medium or medium-to-low speed. When the fan is working at a higher speed, the noise from the air moving through the vents blocks out the high-pitch. It is especially noticeable if I am in the passenger front seat (this is my wife's ride, afterall).
Anyone have a similar issue? It is a 2015 unit, with CPO warranty for another two years. But I can imagine the fight I will face when attempting to get the Dealership to resolve such a subtle issue.
Yes, I realize the vehicle is very quiet (especially with our fairly new Michelin LTX tires) which makes these matters worse. No, I would NOT want more ambient vehicle noise to mask these small sounds (aka, like my son's Ford Focus, lol). It is that the pitch is right at a frequency that is very irritating to me. As a side note, the wife doesn't seem to mind and/or notice it unless I point it out to her.
Same problem on my 2023 since new. When driving facing forward it's the worst. I replaced it within a few hundred miles of buying it since I was pretty sure the st(d)ealership was not going to help. The aftermarket one does the exact same thing. The lowest two settings it is most noticeable.
The other day (maybe 2 days after I installed a new dashcam in my 2018) my AC stopped blowing cold. Intermittently it would blow air at colder than ambient, but it was not working properly. 11 Months ago I had the pressure switch go bad and had it replaced and the AC system evac’d and recharged. I saw that the compressor seemed to be working. There were no codes. So I took it in.
They called me back a few hours later and said that they cannot find any indications of mechanical problems (Compressor, etc.), no leaks, and that their troubleshooting indicates that it is apparently the “AC Amplifier” module and that they would need to pull and they had to go into the dash to get it. It is not a full dash tear-down where the whole AC Unit has to come out. Then it occurred to me to tell them about the fact that I just remembered that a day or two before the AC died I had wired in a dash cam. I used add-a-fuse to tap the driver’s power seat for battery power and the wiper fuse for the accessory signal. Grounded it near the fuse box. It all seemed to work fine. He said let me look into it, that’s good info.
Comes back and says it is definitely the AC Amplifier module. Showed me the wiring schematic and there are two “Seats System” lines coming out of the AC Amplifier module. He said that he doesn’t know why but the seats are connected to that module (like the light sensor, temp sensors, etc). He said the cam somehow must have zapped the module. I don’t see anything in the schematics posted earlier in this thread that has any connection to “Seats” but it shows in the wiring schematic below.
It is a very expensive fix. It just really bugs me that there were no codes. Anyone have any thoughts about this aside from ”you should have just wired it to the battery instead of add-a-fuse”. I had an older camera wired into the rearview mirror for years, but I wanted one that works while the car is off. I disconnected the negative post of the battery when I did the installation.
. Anyone have any thoughts about this aside from ”you should have just wired it to the battery instead of add-a-fuse”.
For completeness, here is the seat heater/fan wiring diagram. Those terminals highlighted in your amplifier diagram are connected to the seat control switches.
For completeness, here is the seat heater/fan wiring diagram. Those terminals highlighted in your amplifier diagram are connected to the seat control switches.
That makes me think it is a lot more of a longshot that I somehow fried the AC Amplifier by plugging an add-a-fuse into the power seat fuse in the cabin. I would not think that the motors in the seat are part of the heat heat/blower fan stitch that plugs into the AC Amplifier. I dunno.
I just would have thought that if the AC amplifier failed in any way, the AC System would have generated a code (or codes). Thanks for that diagram. Very interesting.
with an add a fuse there can be different ways it can be connected.
the type below can be plugged in 2directions, one totally bypasses all fuses to the added device. careful with these as the added fuse can end up higher than the harness was designed for and you can melt wiring from over current.
these are more intuitive and do not allow potential of your added fuse to pull more than the supply circuit is designed for as long as again not backwards because you use the same original rating, not adding another one
one thing to be careful with is if your add on device has its own battery. the GX uses a ground system opposite US vehicles for controllers. if somehow the switching order allows voltage at an incorrect time you can damage ecu internal switching setups.
another issue is if your device has a capacitance (similar to a battery) or if theres some magnetic field collapse. the emf goes to the weak point and that is often the closest ecu, and damages it. some charging systems use coils and have the field collapse when turned off.
theres no need for an oem flyback diode when there was never anything intended on that circuit to have a mag field collapse induced emf rise anywhere close.
Wow ... the Add-a-Fuse that came with the dash cam is similar to the one in top photo. I was wondering it the orientation mattered when installing it. Also, the dash cam has a capicitor instead of a battery so there is that.
Very tempted to just revert to the cigarette lighter adapter and just bury that wire or just try to power it from the rearview mirror. I had a dash cam powered from that location before but I found that for whatever reason, some dash cameras seemed to require more juice or something and they would intermittently cut off when powered from that location. I think having continuous recording even when parked is not worth it at this point.
So those Add-a-Fuses in the bottom photo, they ensure correct orientation because if they are installed incorrectly, the device would not get any juice. The tap comes off of the hot side of the bus in the fuse box, right?
both can be installed in two directions. its just easier to understand visually looking at the bottom version.
because the original fuse can be installed either way, so can the aftermarket adapter.
the adapter maker doesnt know which side your vehicle power comes in from so they cant label it one way or another.
this direction issue shouldnt by itself limit power or cause an issue.
using a voltmeter with fuse removed, check each side of the socket to ground to see which side has power.
even though not wanted to hear it, it is best to run a wire through the firewall with a fuse close at the battery.
another option is to tap off the rear seat heat circuit assuming that it doesnt get used for the seat heat
Brief Recap - Installed a Dashcam using add-a-fuse (Power Drivers Seat for continuous and Wipers for Accessory power). Couple days later my AC stopped blowing cold. Using post 147, no codes.
Took it to my mechanic (no reason to question their skill or integrity) - They said no mechanical issues, no leaks, wanted a bunch more money to go into the dash and check the AC Amplifier. After I told them there MAY be a correlation between that add-a-fuse and the AC blowing warm.
They came back and said, yup, you need a new AC Amplifier. I took the hit and had them replace it. (I of course disconnecetd the dashcam)
They kept the truck for two days after replacing the AC Amp module saying that I must have changed something between their initial diagnosis and me bringing the car in to replace the AC Amplifier once the part came in. THe only thing I did was plug the dash came into the original power source in the rearview mirror where it has been for years using that USB Dongle)
They were unable to find the issue. said the next step is the wiring harness. They said they are "not seeing a ground signal at the AC Amplifier" ... I pushed pause and got the car back. Given that they did not replace all the clips under the hood on the big plastic over the radiator, I am not in love with their attention to detail. Lots of handprints in the car, so my confidence in them got shook.
They told me that now the electric fan for the condenser and the Compressor are not coming on (whereas they were before)
So I re-checked all the fuses I knew to check. All good.
went in and reran Post 147 and now I am getting a code. CODE 23 (and the fresh air button light is blinking). Also ...
My power outlet in the back, I just noticed, stopped working. I plugged an outlet tester into it. It is two prong jack so I used a three to two adapter. The tester said "Open Ground"
I don't know if that is instructive. I could sure use an idea because I am right about to take it to lexus and bend over.
It points to the Pressure Switch (replaced last year) and also the AC Amplifier (replaced last week). I guess I am headed to Lexus for their diagnosis. Honestly, if this is going to lead me to rip out the whole dash chasing gremlins, I will seriously try to take it to Chicago and ask The Car Care Nut take a crack at it. At least I know he will put it back together right.
Does anyone think that the "Open Ground" indication on the rear electrical outlet in the cargo area may be a related symptom?
04-05-24, 05:52 AM
