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I'm one of those A.hole always re-torqueing my wheels at the shop after the wheels have been removed. And 100% of the time it is never torqued correctly.
I always wonder about that when getting new tires at Discount Tire. Do all car brands/wheels spec the torque to the same force? I doubt DT changes their impact torque wrench setting for each specific vehicle. So if their setting is wrong/too high, all cars will be dorked.
I always wonder about that when getting new tires at Discount Tire. Do all car brands/wheels spec the torque to the same force? I doubt DT changes their impact torque wrench setting for each specific vehicle. So if their setting is wrong/too high, all cars will be dorked.
Any time I was waiting at the local DT they always used hand tools and digital torque wrench for the lug nuts. But may not all DT shops do that.
Do you folks recommend any good and reasonably priced click type 1/2 drive torque wrench?
I recently got a Tekton (10 to 150), from my cursory check this new Tekton is not really more accurate than my 10 year old $20 HF wrench of same spec. I used my HF Quinn digital torque adapter to verify on lug nuts at 83 ft-lbs. Readings (in peak or to PtoP mode) are taken when the wrench clicked, and new Tekton is actually a littlle low in my test
Brakes done 6/9/21 and the wheel came off 7/7/21. I heard some popping sounds when entering driveways and thought I might have some front end issues but it turns out the studs were breaking off. If you look at the wheel pic there is rust on some of the studs so this took some time to completely fail. If you remember from my previous post I have always had vibration problems so if this caused vibration during that period it never phased me.
I agree that this could have REALLY gone badly for me and a wheel rolling in the highway at 80mph could have caused serious damage for others.
I recently had all the brakes done and the shop hand tightened the front right spacer to the rotor and torqued the wheel to the spacer.
I was running 80mph on the highway and when I slowed down to exit the truck started shaking aggressively, the exit was a loop around so that is when it snapped off. The wheel bounced off of the curb and hit the truck so I have a dent in the front fender. The shop turned it over to their insurance company and I am still waiting for it to be processed.
That looks like you took it to Butler Auto in Johns Creek. Wow that is some bad luck.
Do you folks recommend any good and reasonably priced click type 1/2 drive torque wrench?
I recently got a Tekton (10 to 150), from my cursory check this new Tekton is not really more accurate than my 10 year old $20 HF wrench of same spec. I used my HF Quinn digital torque adapter to verify on lug nuts at 83 ft-lbs. Readings (in peak or to PtoP mode) are taken when the wrench clicked, and new Tekton is actually a littlle low in my test
why are there six numbers and what does 83/83 reference?
lastly would you keep the tekton? i just picked one up for when i eventually change my brake sad pads/rotors.
why are there six numbers and what does 83/83 reference?
lastly would you keep the tekton? i just picked one up for when i eventually change my brake sad pads/rotors.
Sorry for any confusion here. First 83 is my Quinn digital torque adapter setting, 2nd 83 is tekton setting. My HF seems always 3 ft-lbs less, so I set it to 86.
In my test, I did all 6 lug nuts from the same tire, hence 6 readings for each test.
Reading this thread, many responses have reacted as if this is an endemic situation ... where wheels are falling off all over the place. Just go to a reputable dedicated tire place (like Discount Tire) where they know what they are doing and where the customer can watch the work being performed. The applied torque does not have to be accurate to within NASA specifications ... so everyone needs to relax ... the Lexus recommended torque does not come anywhere near the yield strength of the studs or the lug nuts. If so motivated, then do yourself a favor and purchase a real torque wrench ... not a garbage sub $100 "Harbor Freight" torque wrench.
Tecman's situation is unfortunate ... but is an exception. Very few vehicles run wheel spacers ... so clearly the "technician" had no experience with spacers ... all the more reason that when running spacers, triple checking the work performed is prudent. For everyone else (not running spacers), this failure should not represent a mainstream concern.
For me, my bigger concern is not adequate torque or over-torquing ... my concern is more focused on the torque-down methodology ... in 2-steps, using the proper torque sequence. The rotors on all Toyota / Lexus body-on-frame vehicles warp easily, so the torque methodology is important so as to not promote this happening sooner than later.
08-12-21, 07:14 AM
