When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
it should support front camera without the beatsonic. I’ll let you know hopefully by tonight. I ran the wiring last week and just need to take apart the infotainment section to do the last connection.
Can you please post some pictures of the wire routing you had to do from camera to inside the firewall?
You could directly feed the front camera to the android box. But you will need to use the DVR app to engage the view, which means depends on where you were at the moment, it could be few steps of touch screen before you can see the camera feed. BeatSonic switch (or similar switch) will have the ability to see the camera when you needed in that moment by press a switch. That is a directly camera feed to the screen, not via any kind of apps.
Yeah, makes sense. I'll first install the camera and get the wire routing to the dash and plug it to Android unit. After that if successful I'll contemplate on adding the beatsonic module.
I was able to get the camera installed today. Here are my findings.
The brown colored jack is for the front camera. You’ll need to tap into the red and white cable that says “cam power” and feed it to your front camera.
My front camera is way too wide and way too dark. I’ll need to get another camera to try.I haven’t found an option to adjust camera settings. I bought the square looking NATIKA camera on amazon for $39.
I didn’t cut the plastic fin under the Lexus logo like @hzhao did. Instead I attached it to the left side with double sided tape.
the camera activates when you switch from park or reverse into neutral or drive. Once you pass 15mph it’ll deactivate. There aren’t any buttons on the screen or nav unit to reactivate it that I found. The only way I could activate it is by being below 15mph and quickly activating my high beams. David from LSAILT was able to provide this useful info.
I was able to kill my battery by having it on accessory power testing and installing. Have some jumpers or a battery pack near by.
I ran my camera from the firewall, down the driver side fender edge by the battery and crossed over behind the driver headlight. From there I followed some wire loom in front of the radiator to the front grille. Pics are below.
I’m on My phone. I hope these photos automatically resize.
This is awesome @ObsidianBl . Would love the auto activate below 15mph, which is same as my 2020 Rx450h panaromic cam. I think this is better than the beatsonic manual button option. I've all my stuff being delivered this week, the camera I chose is the Amazon cheapo one..
They might be able to have it automatically turn on when it drops below 15mph. I’m really surprised they are able to tie in the high beams for the camera to reactivate. Just isn’t good flashing the car in front of me at an stop light.
I’ll take some pictures tomorrow to show how wide and dark the front cam is.
Did you have to tap any wire for power or the unit supplies power from its harness? And in this full install for front cam what did you have to take off other than the logo? Any panels or bumper? And fishing wire from firewall, is that an easy task (sorry, I've never done it)?
Did you have to tap any wire for power or the unit supplies power from its harness? And in this full install for front cam what did you have to take off other than the logo? Any panels or bumper? And fishing wire from firewall, is that an easy task (sorry, I've never done it)?
@tipsytopsy
The LSAILT harness has a power wire for the cameras. It’s red with a white stripe and has one of those rubber covers on it. It’s labeled camera power or cam power. I used my last positap to connect the two. You can solder or wire splice them. This is located on the long wire harness next to a wire that says FT touch or something Along those lines .
The video cable should have a short wire that’s red in color for power. The power runs through the yellow camera cable. At the camera side you’ll need to plug in both the yellow wire and the red connector.
You don’t need to take the logo off. But if you want to it’s two Phillips screws and a push to release tab. I only took it off becusee I was planning to paint it.
lexus likes adding plastic trim to the engine bay. You’ll need to remove the plastic trim cover by the driver side (brake fluid area) and the trim from headlight to headlight. Take something like a pen or eraser and push on the black pins and they should release tension. You’ll hear a pop or click and they’ll be loose.
Depending on your GX’s age and weather conditions, some of these might break because they’re plastic.
Underneath the brake fluid is the firewall. Look for the hood release cable around the 10-11 o clock position if you’re looking straight at it. Take an awl or screwdriver and poke a hole around the 12 o clock position. Be careful, on the inside there are bundles of wires. Try to miss those! I poked a drill bit after the initial hole to widen it some more. Take a long zip tie and wrap electrical tape around the video cable and zip tie. Start feeding it through.
I do recommend buying zip ties, 1/2” wire loom, and Tessa tape. the zip ties to keep everything tidy and wire loom to protect the cable and make it look oem. Tessa tape feels like cloth and is much better than electrical tape. This will make it look like an OEM job.
you’ll probably have about 20+ ft of video cable. Hide it under the gear selector or leave it in the engine bay. Up to you. I hid it under the gear selector. I didn’t want to clutter the engine bay with extra wires.
This was my first time doing this project too. It took me a while since I wanted to make sure everything looked good, plus I’m really slow And overly cautious when it comes to this stuff. If I were ever employed at a shop, I would be fired on the same day for taking so long.
PM me for my cell if you want to text or chat while your working through the install.
edit: get some painters tape. I ended up scratching up my radio trim. Tape all the silver trim pieces if you’re worried about it. Get some movers blankets and don’t put the nav or radio on the leather seats. The metal and plastic on the back are sharp enough to do some damage
When you plug in the factory harness into the Lsailt socket, do you guys just remove the gray bracket or is there a place to lock the new socket? Since i cannot hear a snap which locks the harness into socket, just goes all the way in. Do you guys tape the combo so it doesn't come lose?
When you plug in the factory harness into the Lsailt socket, do you guys just remove the gray bracket or is there a place to lock the new socket? Since i cannot hear a snap which locks the harness into socket, just goes all the way in. Do you guys tape the combo so it doesn't come lose?
Not sure if I understood your question, you should take out the entire connector off the OEM head unit, then daisy chain the Lsailt cable harnesses between head unit and OEM connector, not supposed to take the lock off like that.
Not sure if I understood your question, you should take out the entire connector off the OEM head unit, then daisy chain the Lsailt cable harnesses between head unit and OEM connector, not supposed to take the lock off like that.
All good now. When i first tried to push in with the gray lock cover, I didn't slide the snap up before sliding it in. So it didn't work. Now its good and snug fit inside.
So far looks like it would a clean install, just it needs to power up when I hook the battery back on.. lol.
@hzhao when i put the speaker in the top grill, i may not have to trim the edge on grill bottom.. looks like it would work without it (I've not yet snapped it back in). Before I push it hard, did you see the need to cut the plastic on bottom of dash speaker grill?
Looks like the speaker will fit in this location and not hit the plastic support you had to cut. I also pinched the speaker wire below the main speaker washer, so no chance of pulling if the unit moves over a longer period of time ( since the speaker wire barely reaches the bottom where I'm going to place the unit).
Did you foam tape or cloth tape the android box so it doesn't rattle on movement? How do you secure the box from having any kind of movement?
Looks like the speaker will fit in this location and not hit the plastic support you had to cut. I also pinched the speaker wire below the main speaker washer, so no chance of pulling if the unit moves over a longer period of time ( since the speaker wire barely reaches the bottom where I'm going to place the unit).
Did you foam tape or cloth tape the android box so it doesn't rattle on movement? How do you secure the box from having any kind of movement?
I had extended speaker wire for easy installation. For the box, since I had my 360 view box already installed at bottom of the shifter area, I just Velcro this on top of the other. No rattles
09-12-20, 04:40 PM
