renau001

Hey folks, new here. I wanted a quick reference document I can use for my maintenance to save either breaking out full detailed instructions or just to get me to what I need quickly. I know there's already some threads with some similar info, but there were a few things that I found that were spread out as well. This is largely a copy/paste/revise from a similar thread I had made for my 4Runner on t4r.org. I did keep a lot of the 4Runner DIY links for reference because they are so similar, and I already had a bunch of good links for the 4Runner. This will be a work in progress until I get my 30 days in and can update links, look at manuals, etc. I'll be happy to keep this up and add to/edit the original post based on feedback from ya'll and as I actually start performing some of these items. Obviously, I can't be held responsible for any typos or any misuse of the info here. Let me know if ya'll have any recommendations for changes/additions or if you find or know of a DIY thread/video that would be helpful to link to. Please also help me correct any mistakes if you see them. Thanks!


Inspect and adjust all fluid levels - every fill-up

Engine oil
1) Check w/ engine warm greater than 5 minutes after shutting off engine
2) Tip: leave dipstick out while waiting 5 minutes to allow oil in dipstick to drain back down, makes it easier to read
3) Per manual, it’s 1.6 qts from low mark to full mark, don’t overfill

Coolant - between L and F lines with engine cold

Brake fluid - between min and max (should be near or at max with fresh pads)

Power steering fluid
1) Between min and max (cold and hot lines provided)
2) Cold - not driven in last 5 hours (50-85 degF fluid temp)
3) Hot - driven 50 mph for 20 mins (140-175 degF fluid temp)

Check undercarriage (transmission, diffs, transfer case, boots, etc.) for any leaks


Rotate tires - every 5k or 6 mo

Front to back/back to front on driver's side
Spare to rear/rear to front/front to spare on passenger side
Aluminum wheel lug nut torque - 76 lb-ft (21mm)
Check torque ~1000 miles after rotating
Check your manual for proper torque, this has changed a little over the years (some older manuals might say 83 lb-ft)


Replace engine oil and filter - every 10k or 12 mo (severe: 5k or 6 mo)

Torque specs:
Oil pan drain plug - 30 lb-ft (14mm deepwell)
Oil filter cap - 216 lb-in/18 lb-ft (TOY640 with 15/16" or 24mm socket)
No. 1 engine under cover sub-assembly - 21 lb-ft (12mm deepwell)
Front lower bumper cover - 71 lb-in (10mm)
Engine under cover seal - 21 lb-ft (12mm)

Parts:
Oil - 8.2 qts 0W-20 ILSAC GF-5 oil - Toyota part # 00279-0WQTE-01
Oil pan drain plug gasket - Toyota part # 90430-12031
Oil filter element kit - Toyota part # 04152-YZZA3

Special tools:
AST TOY640 filter wrench (or Toyota SST 09228-06501)

Tips:
1) Requires removing skids for access. I put the front wheels on ramps and just allow the skid plate to swing down
2) Oil filter has permanent housing, oil filter element kit includes new filter cartridge and 1 new o-ring
3) Don't overtorque the oil filter cap, can become a bear to get off. The o-ring provides the sealing, not torque applied to the cap.
4) The oil filter tool can get stuck on the cap. Avoid this by wiping out all the oil residue from the tool and cap while you have it off the vehicle. If it still sticks, a little tap with a hammer usually breaks it free.
5) DIY GX 460 Oil Change by @seahaul
6) 4Runner DIY (for reference)


Lubricate propeller shaft - every 15k or 18 mo (severe: 5k or 6 mo)

Parts:
Spider grease - Lithium base chassis grease NLGI No.2
Slide yoke grease - Molybdenum disulfide lithium base chassis grease NLGI No.2
No double cardan joints on the GX 460

Special tools:

Tips:
1) Prop shaft lubrication by @Acrad
2) 4Runner DIY (for reference)
3) 2 spiders and 1 slide yoke on each shaft
4) Spiders should be greased until fresh grease purges from all 4 seals. Should purge somewhat evenly; you may need to relieve pressure on the joint to get even flow, or there may be a problem with the spider/u-joint.
5) There are way too many opinions on how much to grease a slide yoke. I've formed mine, if interested just message me.


Re-torque propeller shaft bolts - every 15k or 18 mo (severe: 5k or 6 mo)

Torque specs:
Prop shaft bolts - 65 lb-ft (14mm/17mm)

Tips:
1) You will need 14mm and 17mm box ends or flarenuts for the u-joint flanges, sockets won't fit
2) The flanges at the transfer case have a 17mm bolt head with a 14mm nut
3) Flanges at the diffs have a 14mm bolt with 14mm nut
4) Recommend a box-end or flarenut crowfoot on your torque wrench, but don't forget to lower your torque setting due to the longer torque arm. Here's a calculator: Torque Wrench Adapter Calculator - CNCexpo.com
5) 4Runner DIY (for reference)


Replace cabin air filter - every 30k or 36 mo (severe: 15k or 18 mo)

Parts:
Filter - Toyota part # 87139-50100

Tips:
1) If you don't know how, it's in your glovebox owner's manual
2) Cabin Air Filter by @Surfishing
3) 4Runner DIY (for reference)


Replace engine air filter - every 30k or 36 mo (severe: 15k or 18 mo)

Parts:
Filter - Toyota part # 17801-38051
Toyota part # 17801-YZZ13 is also compatible, it has no pre-filter and is not made in Japan.
I'm sure either are fine, but the 38051 part seemed like better quality to me.

Tips:
1) Engine air filter fitment by @cicio
2)

4Runner DIY (for reference)

3) Easy job, but don't mess it up. Make sure there's no holes/tears in your new filter. Make sure everything's clean before you open up the box and remove filter. And make sure you have a good mating/seal around entire edge of the filter.


Replace brake fluid - every 3 years or 36k miles

Parts:
~36 oz fluid - Toyota part # 004751BF03 or equivalent (FMVSS No.116 DOT 3 or SAE J1703 brake fluid)

Torque specs:
Bleeder valve - 11 N-m/8 lb-ft (10mm open-end wrench; Front - 10mm deep; Rear - 10mm short)

Tools:
I like this , but don't rely on the magnet, set it on something

Tips:
1) Lift vehicle front and rear for room, no need to remove tires
2) Sequence is FR, FL, RR, RL
3) Ignition switch has to be in ON (2 taps of the engine start button with foot off brake) for both front and rear bleed so pump will run
4) Fronts are standard press and hold brake/loosen bleeder/tighten bleeder/release brake/repeat sequence; pump will run once per bleed
5) On rear, press and hold brake to allow pump to cycle and push fluid continuously
6) If bleeding air (and not just replacing), the FSM states that Techstream is required


Battery replacement

Torque specs:
Battery terminals - 48 lb-in (10mm)
Battery hold-down clamp - 53 lb-in (10mm deep)

Parts:
24F automotive battery, at least 530 CCA
Top post terminals (positive on right, negative on left)
Example: NAPA 7524F

Tips:
1) Negative, Positive, Clamp, Clamp, Positive, Negative
3) Will need a smaller sized torque wrench for negative terminal


Front brakes - every 5k or 6 mo for visual; every 30k or 36 mo for measurements

Torque specs:
Brake caliper mounting bolts - 136 lb-ft (19mm)

Service Specs:
Pad min thickness: 1.0 mm
Rotor min thickness: 29.0 mm
Max rotor runout: 0.05 mm

Parts:
Rotors - Toyota part # 43512-60191
Pads - Toyota part # 04465-60320

Tips:
1) Measure runout 10 mm from outer edge of rotor; rotor should be installed with all 6 lug nuts torqued to 82 lb-ft when checking
2) If runout > max, check bearing play and axle hub runout normal before replacing rotors
3) If rotor stuck on hub, use an M8-1.25 bolt in holes on rotors to break it free
4) Install new rotors in position with least amount of runout
5) Front brake pads by @damkampple
6) Rotors by @Koz
7) 4Runner DIY (for reference)
8) 4Runner DIY (for reference)


Rear brakes - every 5k or 6 mo for visual; every 30k or 36 mo for measurements

Torque specs:
Brake caliper mounting bolts: 74 lb-ft (17mm)
Brake caliper slide pins: 65 lb-ft (17mm)

Service specs:
Pad min thickness: 1.0 mm
Rotor min thickness: 16.0 mm
Max rotor runout: 0.20 mm

Parts:
Rotors - Toyota part # 42431-60311
Pads - Toyota part # 04466-60140

Tips:
1) Measure runout 10 mm from outer edge of rotor; rotor should be installed with all 6 lug nuts torqued to 82 lb-ft when checking
2) If runout > max, check rear axle shaft before adusting/replacing rotors
3) If rotor stuck on hub, use an M8-1.25 bolt in holes on rotors to break it free
4) Install new rotors in position with least amount of runout
5) Brake pads - rear by @shakinroch
6) Rotors by @Koz
7) 4Runner DIY (for reference)
8) 4Runner DIY (for reference)


Inspect fuel lines and connections, fuel tank band and fuel tank vapor vent system hoses - every 30k or 36 mo

Torque specs:
Fuel tank bands - 30 lb-ft (14mm?)
No. 1 fuel tank protector sub-assembly - 180 lb-in/15 lb-ft (12mm)


Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis and body - severe only: every 5k or 6 mo

Let your conscience be your guide


Replace differential oil - inspect every 15k or 18 mo (severe: replace every 15k or 18 mo)

Torque specs:
Rear diff drain plug - 36 lb-ft (24mm or 15/16")
Rear diff fill plug - 36 lb-ft (24mm or 15/16" shallow)
Front diff drain plug - 48 lb-ft (10mm hex + 2-3" ext)
Front diff fill plug - 29 lb-ft (10mm hex)
Rear engine under cover assembly - 21 lb-ft (12mm deepwell)

Parts:
Toyota Genuine Differential gear oil LT 75W-85 GL-5 or equivalent - Toyota part # 08885-02506
Front - 1.48 qts; Rear - 2.85 qts
Rear drain plug gasket - Toyota part # 12157-10010
Rear fill plug gasket - Toyota part # 12157-10010
Front drain plug gasket - Toyota part # 90430-24003
Front fill plug gasket - Toyota part # 12157-10010

Tips:
1) Perform with vehicle level
2) Ensure you can remove fill plug before draining
3) Proper level should be within 5 mm of bottom of fill plug opening
4) Re-check level after driving
5) Save new fill plug washer until final check
6) For front diff: will need to remove skid plate w/ 4 bolts and will want a bottle pump for front diff. Recommend putting a jack under the skid plate to hold it while removing bolts. Once bolts are removed, you can remove the jack. There is a hook that it will hang from. Slide skid plate back to get hook out of way and allow removal. Also recommend removing the skid and loosening diff fill and drain plugs while on ramps, just so you have more room to use a breaker bar. Then take it off ramps and make it level for the actual drain and fill.
7) Your socket for the rear fill plug will need to be shallow to ensure clearance from the rear sway bar. Recommend a 6-pt here if possible. I can see these having potential to getting rounded off.
8) I suspect the fill quantities are for minimum amounts, e.g. I put 3 liters in the rear and never got overflow from the fill plug. Level was in the sat range but not at max. So buy plenty of fluid. 5L should do both front and rear.
9) 10) Diff and transfer case fluid by @Acrad
11) 4Runner DIY (for reference)


Replace transfer case oil - inspect every 30k or 36 mo (severe: replace every 30k or 36 mo)

Torque specs:
Drain plug - 27 lb-ft (24mm or 15/16")
Fill plug - 27 lb-ft (24mm or 15/16")

Parts:
SAE 75W Toyota Genuine Transfer gear oil LF or equivalent - Toyota part # 08885-81080
1.5 qts
Drain plug gasket - Toyota part # 90430-A0003
Fill plug gasket - Toyota part # 90430-A0003

Tips:
1) Ensure you can remove fill plug before draining
2) After filling, leave plug out and let sit ~5 minutes and re-check, add if necessary
3) 4) Diff and transfer case fluid by @Acrad


Replace automatic transmission fluid - inspect every 30k or 36 mo (severe: replace every 60k or 72 mo)

Torque specs:
Drain plug - 180 lb-in/15 lb-ft (14mm)
Overflow plug - 180 lb-in/15 lb-ft (5mm hex)
Fill plug - 29 lb-ft (24mm or 15/16", 3/8" drive shallow socket recommended for clearance)

Parts:
3 qts (per level drain and fill) Toyota ATF WS fluid - Toyota part # 00289-ATFWS
Drain plug gasket - Toyota part # 35178-30010
Overflow plug gasket - Toyota part # 35178-30010
Fill plug gasket - Toyota part # 90301-15004

Other tools:
Toyota SST 09843-18040 (basically you just need a wire to jumper two OBD ports)
Bottle pump (to use for filling)
Flathead screwdriver (for pinning thermostat)
1.5mm allen wrench (for pinning thermostat)
Compressed air
Oil sample container (if desired)

Tips:
1) Transmission Fluid Change procedure
2) Transmission fluid change
3) trans fluid drain and refill
4) transmission temp check mode
5) https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/...mission.63851/ (for reference)
6) Manual seems silent on what a "replacement" is, but I suspect 3 drain/fill/circulate 30sec cycles would be adequate, this is what's called for in the new Tacoma manual.
7) FSM calls for pinning the thermostat before starting


Replace engine coolant - inspect every 15k or 18 mo (replace at 100k/120 mo and every 50k/60 mo thereafter)

Torque specs:
Cylinder block drain **** plug - 108 lb-in (13 Nm)
Radiator drain **** - hand tight
Rear engine under cover assembly - 21 lb-ft (12mm deepwell)
No. 1 engine under cover sub-assembly - 21 lb-ft (12mm deepwell)
Front lower bumper cover - 71 lb-in (10mm)

Parts:
Toyota SLLC - Toyota part # 00272-SLLC2 (50/50 pre-diluted, Canada is 55/45)
14.5 qts (w/o rear heater) or 16.3 qts (w/ rear heater)

Tips:
1) Will want to remove all skids underneath engine
2) Will want to remove engine compartment cover (has ~13 clips)
3) May also want to remove v-bank cover
4) Cylinder drain **** plug is on right bank near engine oil fill tube??
5) Be careful here, there is a sequence to fill the system and remove all the voids without damaging or overheating anything


Replace spark plugs - every 120k or 144 mo

Torque specs:
coming soon

Parts:
coming soon

Tips:
1) Spark plug replacement by @Romanova


Other threads

1) Wipers


Other links

1) https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...calls-obd.html
2) https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...long-term.html
3) Partsouq.com Best website I've seen for looking up parts with full diagrams, just have your VIN# handy.
4)

Water pump/serpentine belt/thermostat replacement

- this is a good video to watch just to learn what wrenching looks like, phenomenal video.
5)

Brake controller install

6) Required watching for the unitiated before walking into a Toyota/Lexus service center -

You Tube

5) GX Bob: https://www.youtube.com/c/BOBGX460/videos

spectrum1c

Renau001, thanks so much for this fantastic summary. Will be bookmarking and referencing often

renau001

sure, I mainly do it for myself

Acrad

This is a great thread. Just to ensure circular coverage for other items not listed or high mileage a few more links

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...calls-obd.html

This thread is also included in one above

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...long-term.html

Statman

Excellent thread!!!...

I would suggest adding, at some point: Are there measurements/observations/etc. (e.g., oil analysis, sounds, vibrations, etc.) that could be made to determine the correct frequency for checks and replacements for your vehicle. It is possible to over maintain your car (e.g., increase the probability of messing something up, cost, time and environmental consequences). Do those fluids really need to be checked EVERY fill up? Replacing oil may depend on a number of factors (e.g., environmental conditions, road conditions, driving style, oil type, etc.), same as tire rotation...Now you might argue the measurements might cost more than just replacing "it", but there are ramifications long-term. Or just ignore me...LOL

renau001

Thanks! added links.

I certainly don't check every fill-up, once I know the vehicle doesn't burn or use any oil, at least. You can certainly over-maintain, but at least on a public forum, I'll try to keep things aligned to manufacturer recommendations and not deviate. Any maintenance has a chance of messing something, thus why I do things myself to lower the probability. But you're absolutely right that things can be tweaked based on specific-user cases. Mfr's tend to keep recommendations simple so they have a higher change of being followed and not screwed up. For instance, when I rotate tires I don't go front-to-back, back-to-front, I swap sides to the drive axle (front tires swap sides on a RWD vehicle). I do that because I know it's better for the tires, and as long as your tires aren't unidirectional, it's not a problem. Toyota and Lexus don't specify this in the manual because they know people might put a unidirectional tire on certain vehicles. Just my two cents.

sillywabit

Thanks for the posting, it's awesome. Can't say enough. Thanks again.

Seanzky

I'll be needing this after my 1-year free service from the dealership. Thank you, OP!

arkaa

Excellent post - most needed maintenance information in one post. Should be made a Sticky.

NewB2Lexus

+1 sticky if it is an option @Acrad .

ronsatour5

excellent job! This is very useful.