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Might just be a different part number. If I were doing it again (since I already did it), I'd get the KYB rears from RockAuto and the OEM fronts from PartSouq. I'd also get the front mounts and the rear bushings from PartSouq. I've been extremely happy with that setup and it made my rig ride like new. You'd never know it has 147k on it now with the way it rides.
Glad to hear you are happy, that's what I am leaning towards. Amayama may be a tad less expensive for the OEM parts, still comparing.
Originally Posted by mike202
That KYB p/n 7410001 showed up in the KYB online catalog last year and it mentioned "new part no.", but now I see the catalog does not list any rear shocks for the GX w/ AVS. It is interesting that Rockauto lists them.
I would try to reach out to KYB for answers on 7410001 vs 741072.
I just checked and the KYB online catalog shows 7410001 for rear with AVS. Fits 2010-2013 Premium and 2014-2023 Luxury.
I also sent them an email to confirm the difference so I'll update when I hear back.
I heard back from KYB US:
They confirmed 7410001 is the correct rear shock for 2011 with AVS. Their feedback regarding the difference between the two: "I do not show 741072 has been distributed from KYB America. If the part was distrubited by KYB Global, I am not privy to that information."
And that 7410001 is the first US distributed part for adaptable suspension models. They would not provide any information about the difference between 7410001 and 741072 (as noted above). They also did not share any details why the front part number carried over to the US but the rear did not.
I think the takeaway for me is that I'll order the Rockauto 7410001 rear part.
I also asked twice if the valving and design is consistent between the Toyota OEM KYB and these KYB part numbers and they said yes and that they are produced with OEM specs.
Sounds like folks here suspect this is not entirely correct? So I'm on the fence about the fronts OEM vs Rockauto.
Sounds like folks here suspect this is not entirely correct? So I'm on the fence about the fronts OEM vs Rockauto.
I would have no concerns going with the KYB's from Rockauto.
"I do not show 741072 has been distributed from KYB America. If the part was distributed by KYB Global, I am not privy to that information."
I don't recall where I seen this but I read somewhere that the story is that the 741072 is identical to the OEM shock, and Lexus did not want this sold aftermarket. Is this just a rumor?
I would have no concerns going with the KYB's from Rockauto.
I don't recall where I seen this but I read somewhere that the story is that the 741072 is identical to the OEM shock, and Lexus did not want this sold aftermarket. Is this just a rumor?
The bottom line ... suppliers support their OEM customers ... maybe exactly the same product, but have different part numbers to this point ... so the OEM's can upcharge ... the game played in all industries ... so are they the same ? ... no one will ever know ... so IF the same, OEM's typically require a higher level of (quality) inspection, so is that really worth the OEM upcharge ? ... who knows.
He says here the KYB direct is not the same part. And he is typically well regarded. Not much evidence in his reasoning though.
But he also says if you buy Denso spark plugs it will be the same part which I can confirm is NOT true. I just bought Denso plugs from Rockauto and the are made in USA instead of Japan and do not look as high quality. Regret not going with NGK.
He says here the KYB direct is not the same part. And he is typically well regarded. Not much evidence in his reasoning though.
If you watch any his videos, he is a big proponent of using OEM parts. But keep in mind he is running a business and he makes more money selling an $800 shock versus a $150 shock.
I replaced both front struts and all sway bar bushings with all OEM parts and the ride quality is amazing now.
Had a clunking and weak damping. Front right strut was leaking significantly.
Note I just recently bought the GX so this was all pre-existing.
Two new OEM struts and top plates arrived and I and installed them this past weekend. Ended up buying from Bell Lexus while they had the 15% off sale. Amayama wanted $250 to ship them so Bell Lexus was a bit less expensive.
The install was a bit tedious to align the clocking for the top plate to top shaft for the adjustable suspension, and lower strut eyelet to top plate.
Take lots of photos of the old set up. The service manual is also helpful. I used a scale to hold against the flat on the top part of the shaft and line it up to the edge of the stud as shown per the instructions.
Says the top nut is single use but I did not know that in advance so I re-used them. They are double nutted with the plate for the damping actuator.
I had to trim a allen wrench shorter (custom) to remove the two screws on the actuator motor. Use a pick and air hose to clean out the hex head and then once the hex key fully inserts it will break loose without stripping out the head.
I found the best way to extract the strut assembly was to break the upper arm to spindle. Made it very easy to pull it out at that point.
Take off the two ABS wire bracets and use a bungee to hold the spindle so it does not stress the brake line.
The lower bolt on the shock - only turn the nut. The bolt head has barbs to keep it from turning. I never even needed to put a wrench to hold it so don't spin it and break them off.
The service manual was a bit light on details here. Did not talk about how to make clearance but the knuckle must be split to lift the upper control arm to fit the strut assy out.
I did not find anything in the service manual about aligning the damping actuator. It must find a home position or the end points? Not sure how it works but I don't have any errors. I turend the rods about 1/2 turn to align with the old shock so the motor would mesh right on.
I decided not to replace the rear shocks since they are not leaking. I will use the Rockauto KYB when doing so.
Part numbers:
2x front struts 48510-60260 $249/ea
2x Strut caps 48609-60090 $33.50/ea
2x front sway bar inner bush 48815-60320 $9.33/ea
2x front sway bar outer bush 48849-60040 (now 48849-60041) $7.19/ea
2x Rear inner sway bar bushings 48818-60020 $7.84/ea
I just swapped out both front struts on my 2020 GX460 Lux. I ordered OEM parts from PartSouq. It went a lot smoother than I thought. After watching a few videos and reading this thread, I wanted to share some additional things I discovered. If you are only swapping struts and not changing bushings on the KDSS, you can do this without disconnecting the sway bar. I put the GX up on jack stands in my garage. Start with the driver's side first. I used a 4mm Hex bit and a 10mm box wrench to remove the screws from the top strut motor. I removed the spindle from the upper control arm using the instructions from this thread. The strut assembly slid out on the driver's side. Do not install the new strut assembly on the driver's side. After removing all the needed parts on the passenger side, including the upper control arm, compress the KDSS system by pushing up on the KDSS ram. The ram is located on the driver's side. Since the passenger side of the KDSS is fixed, this will drive the passenger side's lower control arm down and create the room you need to remove the strut without disconnecting the sway bar or lower control arm. Below is the video I used for this step. Also, an alignment is not required since I did not touch the lower control arm. It's probably a good idea to get one. I was quoted over $1,700 from a local Toyota dealership for this work. I spent $500 on parts and about 2 hours of my time.
I just swapped out both front struts on my 2020 GX460 Lux. I ordered OEM parts from PartSouq. It went a lot smoother than I thought. After watching a few videos and reading this thread, I wanted to share some additional things I discovered. If you are only swapping struts and not changing bushings on the KDSS, you can do this without disconnecting the sway bar. I put the GX up on jack stands in my garage. Start with the driver's side first. I used a 4mm Hex bit and a 10mm box wrench to remove the screws from the top strut motor. I removed the spindle from the upper control arm using the instructions from this thread. The strut assembly slid out on the driver's side. Do not install the new strut assembly on the driver's side. After removing all the needed parts on the passenger side, including the upper control arm, compress the KDSS system by pushing up on the KDSS ram. The ram is located on the driver's side. Since the passenger side of the KDSS is fixed, this will drive the passenger side's lower control arm down and create the room you need to remove the strut without disconnecting the sway bar or lower control arm. Below is the video I used for this step. Also, an alignment is not required since I did not touch the lower control arm. It's probably a good idea to get one. I was quoted over $1,700 from a local Toyota dealership for this work. I spent $500 on parts and about 2 hours of my time.
... all good ... but I absolutely abhore posts where the time involved is insanely misrepresented ... 2-hours ?#? ... let's do this post again with a non-paused time elapsed video ...
^^ maybe he's just better than you.
or working on a clean vehicle, the struts not a rebuild, he's not disassembling some of the related system, has an already organized space, and has experience. maybe not that last part if watching vids on it, but they can help.
ive done similar work in similar time.
my experience has shown time really stretches when theres rust, cant use a torch, need to rebuild.
^^ maybe he's just better than you.
or working on a clean vehicle, the struts not a rebuild, he's not disassembling some of the related system, has an already organized space, and has experience. maybe not that last part if watching vids on it, but they can help.
ive done similar work in similar time.
my experience has shown time really stretches when theres rust, cant use a torch, need to rebuild.
1-hour per side ... not logically possible ... yes, must be better than me ... or maybe delusional ...
02-04-24, 08:13 PM
